Thanks for the advice. I called Vans and said that I just can't seem to counter sink .032 without enlarging the hole to accept the dimple. They said you shouldn't increase the hole size and after you cleco down the skin to the elev. trim tab spar it would tuck in nicely - NOT! Quite a few of the cou...

RV7 left elev. counter sinking - riviting trim spar to root rib. Plans say to machine counter sink here. I find machine counter sinking in material this thin is difficult. Can't seem to counter sink deep enough to get the mgf. head flush with the surface without expanding the dia. of the hole. As I ...

Completing the left elevator. Is it adviseable to install the servo at this time or do it later?

Sure seems to be alot of variation in the position of the counter wt skins on elevators and rudder. Some build with the counter wt. skin on top of the skin and others with the counter wt. skin under the skin. For me the plans and instructions on this step are a bit confusing. What do others think?

Not happy with several pop rivits on rolled leading edge of rudder. What's best technique for drilling them out? Also, I can't fit my pop rivit squeezer on the last rivit/hole because of interference with the counter balance wt. rib. How do you deal with that?

Thanks

The hole was redrilled to 30 also; the shop head is smaller dia than required but not going to set is further because I believe the flange will just bend more. thanks

Had a hole problem with the HZ skin along the front spar which resulted in drilling the hole to 40 and using a 1/8 rivet. When I set the rivet, because the dimple didn't quite accept the Mgf head of the rivet, the spar flange in the area of this hole is not flush with the skin; slightly curved. I se...

Got a bit too aggressive when trying to drill 2 alum angles to sandwich the trailing edge and ended up with some ovaled rudder trailing edge holes. Figure I'll just use the next size rivet (3-4) and chub them up prior to back riveting. How does this sound?

The application is for a trailing edge not fuel tanks.

I have been advised that a marine grade silicon caulking is preferable to proseal due to ease of use with same use results and cheaper.

Wondering what opinions are out there regarding the Cleveland Rivet Remover. Are they that much safer than standard technique for removing universal rivets for example?

Can pop rivets be used with dimpled holes? Also, what is the difference if any between the pop rivets provided in the kits and so called "structural pop rivets" if there is such a thing?


Thanks

Wondering if that most aft hole is a moisture drain. In that case I could just flatten it out and save the rib.

What is the most aft hole for? Dimpled this hole by mistake when I was dimpling counter weight #10 holes. By the way my Cleveland kit did not include #10 dimple dye which the plans call for to match the #10 screws. I used #8 and not quite flush.

The 3rd reply was correct. THAT hole results in only a very thin strip of metal remaining after drilling out the hole to specs. Picts. from other sites are similar to my R904 hole. Just got spooked by how thin it was after paying such close attention to hole edge clearance as you go through the proj...

My edge clearance is 1/32 on the 3/8s hole. There is a spacer right next to it but is this too thin?

What's better squeezing 4-7s or using the rivet gun? I have no problems squeezing the 4-6s but bit concerned the 4-7s might be prone to bending over.

Thanks Chad. That makes perfect sense.

Started to use the #30 dimple die on a the rear hzstab and noticed that the resulting hole looked bigger to my eye. I measured it and sure enough was .011 bigger in dia after dimpling. Wierd. Wondering if the cause was that I had perhaps turned the dies down too tight rather than just too touch if t...

2007 kit - RV 7. Ready to rivet the Hz/Vt Stabs. Do I need to build any jigs?