The "A" Kit is the wing kit portion of their AOA and includes all the sensor stuff. Lately I like their stuff and this allows me to still use a heated pitot from any supplier.
It seemed to me that Dynon was sitting on their laurels and I figure that even if I did want to go with another EFIS vendor I could use the AFS AOA display regardless.
I will letcha know what I find out.
CJ
RV-7
Garmin G3X with VP-X & a TMX-IO-360 with G3i
It's all over but the flying! 800+ hours in only 3 years!
I put the Advanced Flight Systems "A" kit in my wing awhile ago. It goes in easily. Scott Jordan has it in his 8. It seems to work well. I also have the Dynon pitot tube, but I don't plan on using the AOA port, since I don't plan on using the Dynon EFIS.
I have seen Wicked Stick"s installation and watched the "kool-aid" video. It looks like a good system!
Tell me, Paul... why not dump the Dynon AOA and install a traditional heated unit now?
I like this setup because now I can have AOA, a heated pitot and an EFIS display. I just don't think Dynon is working too ambitously towards that heated AOA pitot.
CJ
RV-7
Garmin G3X with VP-X & a TMX-IO-360 with G3i
It's all over but the flying! 800+ hours in only 3 years!
I'll cut a hole in the wing-spanwise conduit near the pitot. So, if someday I decide I need da heat ... I can swap the pitot and pull in the electic wire.
It's not a perfect solution. If "any-day-now-Dynon" still doesn't have the heated AOA pitot when I want to warm up, I'll have to give up the AOA info on the panel. (I'm not holding my breath for Dynon to deliver.) Again, it's not perfect ... I don't get everything ... but it suits me today, and allows for an upgrade/swap in the future if I change my mind.
By the way, what size wire are you pulling for the heated pitot? Does that get grounded to the airframe at the pitot, or do you run a second wire to return the electrons?
I am going to have to read the literature that comes with the one I get, but most are saying 10 amps. If that's the case, #18 it is. I will also hook it up and bench test it to confirm it's current draw.
I am not planning on a return wire. I will likely use the airframe for the negative, but that could change with time.
CJ
RV-7
Garmin G3X with VP-X & a TMX-IO-360 with G3i
It's all over but the flying! 800+ hours in only 3 years!
True. I saw the specs for 10 amps. I seem to remember reading that these things have wicked inrush currents when first turned on ... they draw a lot more current when cold. Light bulbs work that way too.
I think the conservative rule on the return wire for the negative is to usually use a return wire for everything (to avoid the dreaded ground noise and ground loop monsters). The resonable exception is for stuff that is not suseptable to noise. I think the pitot heat and lights are the poster-child examples of where it's ok to use the airframe ground.
The inrush current of a resistive heating load is normally high. Case-in-point, my preflight on every Piper I fly includes an ammeter check by watching the needle respond to the pitot heat load.
CJ
RV-7
Garmin G3X with VP-X & a TMX-IO-360 with G3i
It's all over but the flying! 800+ hours in only 3 years!
In regards to the function of AOA systems, they basically just measure the pressure difference between two ports, calibrated for the aircraft that they are in, correct? So in theory you could use AFS's wing kit with a Dynon EFIS, or vice-versa, or even with another brand of EFIS like a Blue Mountain that has AOA as a feature? I'd really like to use Dynon's heated AOA/pitot, but haven't decided on an EFIS yet
Kelly
RV-7 Empennage done, wings done, fuselage to QB stage
1947 Stinson108-1 flying
CJ
CJ
CJ