Panel Layout Critique wanted...

[Brantel]

Please share your thoughts on the following three layouts and let me know which one you like best. The last one is based around the possibility for a 696 in the plan.

Most of the equipment other than the GPS choice is pretty much set in stone. This panel will be 1.5" taller than standard.

Option One, side by side Dynons and 496



Option Two, stacked Dynons and 496



Option Three, stacked Dynons and 696



With this panel I would have:

2 Full Efis's, battery backup
1 EMS, battery backup
1 Dual Axis AP
1 EHSI
1 NAV/COM that is almost the same as two with the standby monitoring and the dual VOR capability with the Dynon EHSI
1 VFR GPS/Map/Weather and Traffic if I add a Zaon, battery backup
Backup ALT, AI with battery backup & ASI
Backup NAV/COM handheld with connection to external antenna


The mission is day/night VFR with the ability to stay IFR current and pop thru a layer or two every now and then.

[Wicked Stick]

Looks to me like option 2 is best until you decide about the 696.

Be careful about putting switches in the area where your knees/legs will be bumping as you get in and out of the seating area. (especially if your going to make the panel a little taller (hangs lower) than stock.

This also means you will have to shorten your stick and may create a heavier feel to the flying.

[bullojm1]

Brian-

I like all three panels. Now that I said something nice, I can be nitpicky!

On all three of them I noticed you have the trim and flap Ray Allen LED indicators. Why? With the HS34's additional analog inputs you can display them on the Dynon EMS screen.

Will the ASI interfere with the canopy reinforcement frame?

If your main issue is a basic IFR airplane, you can probably same some money and not have two EFIS's with AHRS's in them. You already have the steam gauges as a backup. One can be an EFIS, the other just an engine monitor. It'll make the 696 easier to swallow! Also, don't forget you get the simulated 6 pack with the Garmin 496 or 696.

In #1 I like how the map is below the D180. I think you would use the map and the main EFIS the most.

With your altimeter placement you will be reaching across the panel whenever you need to adjust it. You might want to think about getting it closer to the HS34 (if possible) so you don't have to more your hand that much.

[Brantel]

Thanks, I may add a guard or two to the critical switches on the left.

I like my stick to be a little stiffer than the stock length so I plan to cut it down.

Thanks!

Looks to me like option 2 is best until you decide about the 696.

Be careful about putting switches in the area where your knees/legs will be bumping as you get in and out of the seating area. (especially if your going to make the panel a little taller (hangs lower) than stock.

This also means you will have to shorten your stick and may create a heavier feel to the flying.

[Brantel]

Mike,

I think I will drop the indicators....

I don't think the ASI will hit but I will double check.

I thought about the D100/D120 combo but the D120 has some limitations on when and how it can display the EHSI. Still an option though.

It is hard to get the backup Alt on the right side of the panel without putting it way over on the right. I think I will just settle with crossing arms on that one.

Brian-

I like all three panels. Now that I said something nice, I can be nitpicky!

On all three of them I noticed you have the trim and flap Ray Allen LED indicators. Why? With the HS34's additional analog inputs you can display them on the Dynon EMS screen.

Will the ASI interfere with the canopy reinforcement frame?

If your main issue is a basic IFR airplane, you can probably same some money and not have two EFIS's with AHRS's in them. You already have the steam gauges as a backup. One can be an EFIS, the other just an engine monitor. It'll make the 696 easier to swallow! Also, don't forget you get the simulated 6 pack with the Garmin 496 or 696.

In #1 I like how the map is below the D180. I think you would use the map and the main EFIS the most.

With your altimeter placement you will be reaching across the panel whenever you need to adjust it. You might want to think about getting it closer to the HS34 (if possible) so you don't have to more your hand that much.

[Brantel]

Here is round 2 of the panel possibilities...

I changed from a D180/D100 combo to a D100/D120 combo. Thought being why have 2 efis's and another set of backup steam gauges. With the new setup, I only have 1 Efis and a set of backup steam gauges.

Also removed the trim and flap indicators as these will be on the Dynon and moved the flap and trim buttons.

[Spike]

#3

[Wicked Stick]

Thanks, I may add a guard or two to the critical switches on the left.

I was thinking more about saving your knees from damage as well as the switches. Unless of course you go with rocker switches, then that saves both your knees and the need for guards.

I like my stick to be a little stiffer than the stock length so I plan to cut it down.

Have you flown in someone's with the stock height already?
I know on the 8's it really makes a difference so I left mine as tall as I could with the standard panel height. Mind you, I'm not trying to down-play your thinking, just wanted to have you consider the outcome carefully.

[Brantel]

Most of the ones I have flown 6 & 7 have had cut down sticks. The 6 I had my transition training in had a full length one and I always ended up flying it with my had about half way down the stick.

[Bob Barrett]

Your last versions both show the Dynon 100 where I think it would be front and center for the pilot using the left stick. I have a D-10 and at first I didn't have it centered on a dummy panel a Airforce Fighter Pilot set me straight and so I move it to be centered on top in front of the left stick. I am sure glad I did that on my RV-6A! I am finsihing up the paper work to night to send to the FISO tomorrow.