I'm all set to do some dimpling (Toolbox kit)
How much is enough? Do I just squish until there ain't no more squish to squash?
Any rules of thumb here?
I figure it shouldn't be rocket science since most dimpling is done with a mallet. But, since I'm using a squeezer I figured I'd ask.
dimples
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- Chief Rivet Banger
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You got it. Squeeze until the dimple dies are fully seated.
- Spike
- Spike
http://www.rivetbangers.com - Now integrating web and mail!
Current Build: 2 years into a beautiful little girl
Current Build: 2 years into a beautiful little girl
Yup, just squish till it don't squish no more.
If you don't squeeze hard enough the dimple will be shallow and the rivet will sit proud. You can fit a rivet into the dimple to check it out. However, keep in mind that when you set the rivet eveything changes a little -- obviously the rivet changes shape on the shop end, but the hole, the dimple and the manufactured head all change shape a little too. Usually the rivet fits better in the "perfect" dimple after the rivet has been set.
After you set the rivet, and the rivet is found to be sitting proud, the problem is not necissarilly with a bad dimple. I usually find that the rivet is a bit crooked and one side of the head is up a little bit. This is caused by not setting up the squeezer square. The squeezer needs to be squared up to the structure being riveted AND to the rivet. Sometimes that little rivet just wants to sit crooked in that hole.
There is a bit of a problem with over dimpling. If you crush it too hard, the skin starts to get a bit wavy as the area around the dimple is distorted too. I don't think I've seen this with squeezing the dimples, but, it can happen using the "c-frame and mallet-whacker" when you try to get "real nice crisp" dimples.
OK, that's way to much information for something that's really simple.
If you don't squeeze hard enough the dimple will be shallow and the rivet will sit proud. You can fit a rivet into the dimple to check it out. However, keep in mind that when you set the rivet eveything changes a little -- obviously the rivet changes shape on the shop end, but the hole, the dimple and the manufactured head all change shape a little too. Usually the rivet fits better in the "perfect" dimple after the rivet has been set.
After you set the rivet, and the rivet is found to be sitting proud, the problem is not necissarilly with a bad dimple. I usually find that the rivet is a bit crooked and one side of the head is up a little bit. This is caused by not setting up the squeezer square. The squeezer needs to be squared up to the structure being riveted AND to the rivet. Sometimes that little rivet just wants to sit crooked in that hole.
There is a bit of a problem with over dimpling. If you crush it too hard, the skin starts to get a bit wavy as the area around the dimple is distorted too. I don't think I've seen this with squeezing the dimples, but, it can happen using the "c-frame and mallet-whacker" when you try to get "real nice crisp" dimples.
OK, that's way to much information for something that's really simple.

RV-7A wings
Ditto to what Paul said. My EAA tech advisor recommended that I be able to see just a slight amount of coining around the dimple. It has worked well for me so far and I am very happy with the flushness (new word I think) of my rivets.
JohnR
RV-7A - Fuselage - SOLD, just not supposed to be
Numbers 6:24 - The LORD bless thee, and keep thee
RV-7A - Fuselage - SOLD, just not supposed to be
Numbers 6:24 - The LORD bless thee, and keep thee
- Wicked Stick
- Class B
- Posts: 1000
- Joined: Wed Feb 09, 2005 10:00 pm
- Location: KEWB
Papa,
With the spring back dimple dies... I learned from Cleaveland's online videos, to adjust the dies up until they touch each other slightly (with nothing between them), then back them off ever so slightly so that you can move/spin them with little to no drag.
Go here: http://cleavelandtoolstore.com/faq.asp
to see all of their videos... Update: looks like a lot of the videos have been removed or are of an older video codec... :*(
With the spring back dimple dies... I learned from Cleaveland's online videos, to adjust the dies up until they touch each other slightly (with nothing between them), then back them off ever so slightly so that you can move/spin them with little to no drag.
Go here: http://cleavelandtoolstore.com/faq.asp
to see all of their videos... Update: looks like a lot of the videos have been removed or are of an older video codec... :*(
Dave "WS" Rogers
RV-8 (125 hrs & counting)
N173DR
RV-8 (125 hrs & counting)
N173DR