Countersinking AEX wedges?

Post by **Spike** » Wed Mar 16, 2005 9:59 pm

Anyone have any good ideas on how to countersink the trailing edge wedges used on the control surfaces? I think this only applies to the 9 & 10. Im not enthused with the concept of countersinking such a narrow piece of material that is angled. Thoughts?

-- John

Scott Spencer · Post by **Scott Spencer** » Fri Mar 18, 2005 9:29 pm

I used my drill press and a micro stop. I built a guide that held them at the proper angle - worked pretty well. I used my squeezer to set the rivets using a method I found on some web site. I'll see if I can find it again for you

Post by **Spike** » Sun Mar 20, 2005 9:51 am

Thanx Scott. I'm curious as to how you cut the angle in your stock holder? That is a very thin piece of material.

-- John

Scott Spencer · Post by **Scott Spencer** » Sun Mar 20, 2005 6:53 pm

I am assuming you mean guide by stock holder. I just used a piece of 3/4” aluminum angle as a back-stop combined with a piece of 1” X 1/8” flat stock shimmed to the proper angle as the bed – this creation was clamped securely to my drill press. Then all I had to do was lay the angle flat on the bed and against the back-stop and drill the wedges as fast as I could slide them across my drill press. Hope this is clear, if not I will try to make a drawing for you.

g_e_young · Post by **g_e_young** » Wed Mar 23, 2005 11:04 am

I'm not sure this helps much, but I notices last night that there is info about the AEX process in section 5 of the builder's manual. Of course upon seeing this I tore through the plans (RV-8) to see where I had to use this technique and of course found nothing. NOW I understand what the AEX info was in there.

Have fun - it looks tricky. Why do they use the AEX technique anyway?

Post by **Spike** » Wed Mar 23, 2005 11:53 am

They use them so that you no longer have to bend the trailing edges of the control surfaces. With exception of the rudder they are now pre-bent at the factory at the hinge end. Not bending at the trailing edge also helps to take stress off of the rear of the stiffeners which in turn alleviates much of the cracking issues.

-- John

g_e_young · Post by **g_e_young** » Wed Mar 23, 2005 8:28 pm

Interesting. Is the drag also lower?

gy

Post by **Spike** » Wed Mar 23, 2005 8:58 pm

Hmmm, I dont really know. I wouldnt think so, but maybe.

N941WR · Post by **N941WR** » Tue May 03, 2005 10:17 pm

Check out the aileron page on my web site for the jig I made to CS the wedge and the rivet sets I modified to squeeze them.

Bill
RV-9

Post by **Spike** » Wed May 04, 2005 8:05 am

Excellent idea Bill! Ill me sure to make use of that idea in the near future. I have the wedges coming up for my elevators. *yuck*

-- John

Check out the aileron page on my web site for the jig I made to CS the wedge and the rivet sets I modified to squeeze them.

Submitted via email

jim_geo · Post by **jim_geo** » Thu May 05, 2005 12:46 am

Here's the answer I got when I asked it at a builders class. You counter sink with a micro stop on one side then on the flip side you counter sink with the Avery debur tool. The simplicity of the answer blew me away.

Marine · Post by **Marine** » Sun May 08, 2005 12:36 pm

I drilled and cleco'd the AEX wedge to the top of my workbench, with the thin edge of the wedge aligned with the edge of the workbench. Drill through every hole, deep enough that the countersink pilot has somewhere to go. Then use the hand drill and the countersink cage. When you get to the second side, the holes in the wood will keep the pilot centered in the hole. Because you've got it even with the edge of the workbench, the countersink cage can sit flat against the wedge.

PJ

samfly · Post by **samfly** » Thu May 12, 2005 9:01 pm

I too am looking for a way to hold the AEX wedge for the rudder so as to countersink it. Van's tecki told me it was in the manual, cannot find it.
If any one had success please let me know...Sam Fly

RivetBangers.com