Tank Sealant / Pro Seal question

[captain_john]

Soooo... with my wings on the way I am looking towards doing the tanks. I see the Pro Seal in the Spruce catalog and just for entertainment I compare them to Van's whom I notice now is selling a product called Flame Master. They say, "This is the recommended sealer for RV fuel tanks, replaces older Pro Seal."

Now, what's up with that?

I just have to ask the question, "Why" once again.

Was the Pro Seal not good enough? I doubt that. Lotsa good tanks out there.

Is this stuff easier to work with?

I see it costs less. That is good... but cost is not a huge factor, really.

The Pro Seal has a bit of an odor, but I would expect that.

Has anyone used both products?

I have used the Pro Seal on my buddie's firewall and ummmm... it works fine.

Baffled, once again!

CJ

[RV6junkie]

Pro Seal is a just a generic term that we RVers use for Class A and Class B, two part polysulfide based Aircraft Fuel Tank Sealant.

I didn’t use Pro Seal on my wings. The product that I used (and used on many RV's) is a product made by CHEMSEAL and distributed by SEAL PACK. There isn’t a difference between Proseal, Seal Pack, and now “FlameMaster”. But there is a difference in how the product is mixed and applied. Looking at FlameMaster, it is the same product as Pro Seal and Seal Pack.

The Seal-Pack product I used comes in 2 1/2 or 6 oz tubes and is mixed IN THE TUBE! It is applied to the ribs using a caulking gun straight from the tube. No measuring, mixing with sticks or mess.

The product I used was known as CS3204, and it appears to be the same as the MC-236 (part numbers may have been updated...it was 10 years ago). There is a sub-number used for the work-life time. Example: CS3204-B2 has a working time of 2 hours. B1/2 is half an hour. The B2 is the best way to go in that is gives you ample time to work. You will notice that Van’s sells the B1/2 stuff in the 6 oz tubes. I would contact Seal Pack to see if you get the CS3204-B2 (or MC-236-B2) in the 6 oz tubes. It is a much easier method of applying the sealant.

Here is the procedure I use and recommend:

First: I used one 6oz tube for each tank on the skin and ribs. Lay down a bead about 3/16 of an inch wide on the ribs. Having a helper will make life a lot easier. I waited to do the rear baffles and I used one 6 oz tube for both tanks. I did the rear baffle after the ribs/skin cured. This way I could brush the sloshing compound directly on the rib/skin joint.

Second. Wear multiple pairs of VINYL gloves. Latex gloves have a powder on them that will get into the sealant. Very Bad. As your gloves get gooped-up, remove one layer to expose a clean pair. Neat and clean.

Third. I Used Dupont Gun and Equipment Cleaner to clean my clecos, plyers, rivet set, skin, table, door knob and dog. Just pour the stuff into a jar and drop your gooped-up clecos into the jar as you rivet. Let them sit for a few days and you’ll be able to remove the sealant. If you don’t like cleaning, you could always use those cheep plastic clecos and just throw them away.

Forth. If you want to make sure that your tanks don't leak...slosh 'em. Once again, Seal Pack has a product that is AVFUEL/AUTOFUEL Safe....CS3600. This product comes in quart cans. Like I mentioned above, I brushed the rib/skin joint. After the rear baffle of the tank was riveted into place, I poured about a ½ cup of sealant into the tank and worked it into the rib/baffle structure. There will be NO drainage. Trust me!

Last. Don't use a permanent sealant on those things that you might need to remove like access covers and fuel sending units. Order a low adhesive like CS3300B1/2. Seals well but can be removed (with some effort).

If you want to go with the clean method, Seal Pack can be reached at (316) 942-6211; Wichita Kansas. The people there a very helpful and knowledgeable and will send out tech info if you ask. You will need 4 ea. of the 6 oz CS3204B2, 2 ea. of the 2 1/2 oz, 1 ea. of the 2 1/2 oz. CS3300B2 and two quarts of the CS3600 to finish two wing tanks. Use two of the 6 oz for each main tank and one 2 1/2 oz for the rear baffle.

It isn't the cheapest way to go but you will have a sealant that is mixed correctly and will produce the best results with the least amount of clean-up.

Everybody complains about sealing the tanks but I must confess, I thought that it was one of the most enjoyable parts of building the plane.

[captain_john]

WOW! Very thorough!

That is ALOT to absorb in one read. It looks like I should have no qualms about ordering the Flamemaster product and start reading up on tank assembly processes.

More questions to follow!

Thank you! Anyone else that can add to this? I would appreciate it!

CJ

[Spike]

I cant give you any first hand knowlege, only an opinion based on past RVator issues and readings. And that is that I personally wont slosh my tanks. There are too many stories of that stuff pealing causing major headaches in removing, opening, cleaning, and then re-sealing tanks. YUCK

-- John

[captain_john]

I heard dat 2!

Thank you!

CJ

[Heli-Wrench]

ProSeal (or PRC) vs FlameMaster is a discussion that comes up at work very often. And flameMaster has been "Voted off the Island".

Both products are similar, but we just seem to run into issues with Flame Master not setting up properly, or taking forever to set up. This may not be an issue for you in your building stage, as it may be months (years?) before fuel hits the tank, but if you ever need to do a repair down the road......

On the can there is a mix ratio, read it. Understand it. Follow it to the letter! If you are going to be mixing small amouts find your self an accurate scale and a calculator. Some PRCs mix ratio is 13.3:100. (Ya, Ya, I know, I can do the math in my head, but these products are not cheap, why risk it.) With the Scale and Calculator, I haven't had a problem with either.

And yes, they all smell bad.

[RV6junkie]

On the can there is a mix ratio, read it. Understand it. Follow it to the letter! If you are going to be mixing small amouts find your self an accurate scale and a calculator. Some PRCs mix ratio is 13.3:100. (Ya, Ya, I know, I can do the math in my head, but these products are not cheap, why risk it.) With the Scale and Calculator, I haven't had a problem with either.

That is why I like the pre-mixed tubes...it almost guarantees success.

[Heli-Wrench]

Your right, the tubes to make a big differance. But PRC has some Duct Tape like qualitys, you can fix alot of stuff with it, and and that is when you will need to mix up a small batch.

[jim_geo]

I'm wondering if I could use proseal to coat the battery tray on my plane? Or perhaps someone knows of something to use that would be the right product to coat the tray with. It's not so much a tray as it is a housing.

[Snap]

There is stuff out there that is made for doing area's around the battery area. I think that it also has heat proofing qualities as well. Ask around. I have seen it.

[Guest]

Pro Seal is a just a generic term that we RVers use for Class A and Class B, two part polysulfide based Aircraft Fuel Tank Sealant.

I didn�t use Pro Seal on my wings. The product that I used (and used on many RV's) is a product made by CHEMSEAL and distributed by SEAL PACK. There isn�t a difference between Proseal, Seal Pack, and now �FlameMaster�. But there is a difference in how the product is mixed and applied. Looking at FlameMaster, it is the same product as Pro Seal and Seal Pack.

The Seal-Pack product I used comes in 2 1/2 or 6 oz tubes and is mixed IN THE TUBE! It is applied to the ribs using a caulking gun straight from the tube. No measuring, mixing with sticks or mess.

The product I used was known as CS3204, and it appears to be the same as the MC-236 (part numbers may have been updated...it was 10 years ago). There is a sub-number used for the work-life time. Example: CS3204-B2 has a working time of 2 hours. B1/2 is half an hour. The B2 is the best way to go in that is gives you ample time to work. You will notice that Van�s sells the B1/2 stuff in the 6 oz tubes. I would contact Seal Pack to see if you get the CS3204-B2 (or MC-236-B2) in the 6 oz tubes. It is a much easier method of applying the sealant.

Here is the procedure I use and recommend:

First: I used one 6oz tube for each tank on the skin and ribs. Lay down a bead about 3/16 of an inch wide on the ribs. Having a helper will make life a lot easier. I waited to do the rear baffles and I used one 6 oz tube for both tanks. I did the rear baffle after the ribs/skin cured. This way I could brush the sloshing compound directly on the rib/skin joint.

Second. Wear multiple pairs of VINYL gloves. Latex gloves have a powder on them that will get into the sealant. Very Bad. As your gloves get gooped-up, remove one layer to expose a clean pair. Neat and clean.

Third. I Used Dupont Gun and Equipment Cleaner to clean my clecos, plyers, rivet set, skin, table, door knob and dog. Just pour the stuff into a jar and drop your gooped-up clecos into the jar as you rivet. Let them sit for a few days and you�ll be able to remove the sealant. If you don�t like cleaning, you could always use those cheep plastic clecos and just throw them away.

Forth. If you want to make sure that your tanks don't leak...slosh 'em. Once again, Seal Pack has a product that is AVFUEL/AUTOFUEL Safe....CS3600. This product comes in quart cans. Like I mentioned above, I brushed the rib/skin joint. After the rear baffle of the tank was riveted into place, I poured about a � cup of sealant into the tank and worked it into the rib/baffle structure. There will be NO drainage. Trust me!

Last. Don't use a permanent sealant on those things that you might need to remove like access covers and fuel sending units. Order a low adhesive like CS3300B1/2. Seals well but can be removed (with some effort).

If you want to go with the clean method, Seal Pack can be reached at (316) 942-6211; Wichita Kansas. The people there a very helpful and knowledgeable and will send out tech info if you ask. You will need 4 ea. of the 6 oz CS3204B2, 2 ea. of the 2 1/2 oz, 1 ea. of the 2 1/2 oz. CS3300B2 and two quarts of the CS3600 to finish two wing tanks. Use two of the 6 oz for each main tank and one 2 1/2 oz for the rear baffle.

It isn't the cheapest way to go but you will have a sealant that is mixed correctly and will produce the best results with the least amount of clean-up.

Everybody complains about sealing the tanks but I must confess, I thought that it was one of the most enjoyable parts of building the plane.

[svanarts]

For what it's worth. I used pro-seal and did not slosh. I did have a few seeps here and there but that's because of my crappy workmanship not the pro-seal. I touched up the seeps and have not had any leaks since.

[captain_john]

Scott,

That's worth alot to me!

I suspect my experience could be alot like yours and most people's out there!

I am cutting stiffeners now and will be sealing soon! Maybe this weekend?

CJ

[Wicked Stick]

I am cutting stiffeners now and will be sealing soon! Maybe this weekend?

CJ

John,

When your ready, I'd be happy to help. Just give me a call the day before your ready.

[captain_john]

WS,

Thanks! If you get this before you leave for KPYM, can you bring your tank dies with you?

I got my night currency done and weather is supposed to be good for tonight!

Thanks!

CJ

[ptrotter]

CJ,

Remember that in this heat and humidity ProSeal will cure faster so you should adjust your quantities accordingly.

[captain_john]

Thanks Paul!

I will!

BTW, could you please post the link to your .pdf which you created on the subject of tank sealants.

I am sure that others would benefit from it. It is GREAT!

CJ

[ptrotter]

No problem. It is in the articles section of Doug Reeves web site. Here is the direct link:

http://65.219.228.161/articles/tank_sealant.pdf

One of these days I am going to add a better section on application with pictures.

[captain_john]

Spike, there is a real good item to archive!

Thanks, Paullie!

CJ

[Spike]

Spike, there is a real good item to archive!

Done. Thanx Paul, great document!! If you guys know of more let me know!!


-- John