Aileron question

cjensen · Post by **cjensen** » Fri Oct 13, 2006 11:03 am

I'm getting ready to rivet both ailerons, but before I do that, I wanted to check on the twist issue. I've read that there is a possibility of unintentionally building some twist into the ailerons and flaps.

How? With matched holes, how can any twisting happen? Educate me so I end up with straight sufaces!

tshort · Post by **tshort** » Fri Oct 13, 2006 12:10 pm

Once all the holes are drilled and dimpled there is some "play" both with the clecoes and the rivets. Cleco it together and twist - it is definitely moveable.

I did mine in the jig and then finished the pulled rivets on bottom with it securely clamped to a FLAT table (MDF workbench) and they came out great.

T.

Post by **Spike** » Fri Oct 13, 2006 12:11 pm

The rivet gnomes do it when you aren't looking. The holes are prepunched, but sometims you can stress the hole somewhat and get things to move. Keep in mind that over a very large distance, say the length of an aileron, or in my case an elevator, you only need to get a very small shift in each hole to get a decent twist going.

I would recommend getting something like lead shot and making up a couple of bags to be used for weights. Using these hold the part flat against a flat surface while you set enough rivets to lock the part in shape.

Using something like a pool table to check your work as you go can do wonders to help out.

- John

TomNativeNewYorker · Post by **TomNativeNewYorker** » Fri Oct 13, 2006 2:03 pm

"L" "T" or "U" shaped aluminum extrusion clamped to the trailing edge may help you also.

cjensen · Post by **cjensen** » Tue Oct 17, 2006 9:45 am

Well, here's how I did the top row of rivets-

Here's how I attached the spar to the wood. It's only screwed to the one-by to allow me to shim between the one-by and four-by if I needed to.

I think I'll put it back in this "jig" to do the pulled rivets on the bottom as well. It worked nicely, and I made sure things were level-

I should be able to wrap these things up tonight! They are nice and straight with no twist...at least to this point-

Thanks for the suggestions!!

dons · Post by **dons** » Tue Oct 17, 2006 2:51 pm

They look really good Chad. Hope all the attention to detail pays off when that last rivet is in, let us know. You can't be too careful, use too many clamps, measure too often, or check that level one too many times

. Mind you, I still screw up

.

cjensen · Post by **cjensen** » Tue Oct 17, 2006 10:29 pm

Aileron's complete and straight!!

captain_john · Post by **captain_john** » Wed Oct 18, 2006 5:59 am

Looks great, Chad!

Hey, how did ya like that leading skin to top skin row of rivets?

How did ya gett 'em done?

They were a TREAT!

I had a nifty little bucking bar that I spaced off the skin with tounge depressors and masking tape. It was like magic!

CJ

cjensen · Post by **cjensen** » Wed Oct 18, 2006 9:00 am

Thanks! They weren't as bad as I thought they would be. The ones that gave the most trouble were the shop heads right up against the web of a stiffener. I shot and my dad bucked with the bucking bar you see in the first pic above. He just pulled the bottom skin up, and inserted the bar, and we shot away!

Wicked Stick · Post by **Wicked Stick** » Wed Oct 18, 2006 7:19 pm

cjensen wrote:I shot and my dad bucked with the bucking bar you see in the first pic above.

That shape bucking bar is one of my fav's for a lot of areas.

JohnR · Post by **JohnR** » Wed Oct 18, 2006 10:10 pm

They look great Chad. Add another checkmark on the finished list!

aparchment · Post by **aparchment** » Thu Oct 19, 2006 7:30 am

VERY nice job Chad. Man you and CJ are setting the bar high. I don't have a prayer of matching that work, at least if I want to fly this thing by spring of '08.

Antony

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