question regarding rivet callout
question regarding rivet callout
In the plans they say" the rivet call out is corect on the plans". What does that mean. I see it gives you the type of rivet but is there a sequence mabe to putting them in I am missing. (dumb question for the week). Thanks Gary
No dumb questions here...
A rivet callout is simply the rivet that is to be used in that location. They say the rivet callout is correct to mean that the plans are accurate.
As far as an order goes, a general rule is to start in the middle and work your way up or down, then out or in...especially for wing skins as they can tend to creep on ya.
Did that help?
A rivet callout is simply the rivet that is to be used in that location. They say the rivet callout is correct to mean that the plans are accurate.
As far as an order goes, a general rule is to start in the middle and work your way up or down, then out or in...especially for wing skins as they can tend to creep on ya.
Did that help?
I think what the plans are getting at in that case is not to use longer rivets to try to get the shop head to 1.5 times the diameter of the rivet and 0.5 times the diameter in height. They likely figure as a new builder you may make more mistakes than using rivets that are a little short of ideal.
If you look in the 'standards' book, you will see that there is a minimum and maximum for both the shop head diameter and height, you don't always have to make the rivet be 1.5 and 0.5 times the diameter to meet spec. As long as the minimum diameter and height is met, you have a good rivet according to the 'standards' manual.
If you look in the 'standards' book, you will see that there is a minimum and maximum for both the shop head diameter and height, you don't always have to make the rivet be 1.5 and 0.5 times the diameter to meet spec. As long as the minimum diameter and height is met, you have a good rivet according to the 'standards' manual.
Don Sinclair
CYKF
RV-7A (Fuselage)
CYKF
RV-7A (Fuselage)
-
captain_john
- Sparky
- Posts: 5880
- Joined: Sun Oct 31, 2004 9:17 am
- Location: KPYM
Gary, I (being an educator) took a little different take on your question. Maybe I am misunderstanding you, but lemme give it a shot now.
The term "callout" is when Van "calls for" a certain size fastener, material or part. When he refers to rivets, he "calls for" a certain diameter and length. Like already mentioned above, these lengths MAY BE SHORTER than MilSpec!
OK, now what is MilSpec? When these rivets were designed and strengths were tested, the military came up with standards. Once standards were found, they made specifications. They said that they need to be sooo long in order to make a decent shop head (a head formed in the shop, by YOU!).
We have these nifty little gauges in order to figure out how long they need to be BEFORE you squish 'em in order to make a nice big bulge AFTER you squish 'em! Of course, we have another gauge to measure the post squished diameter. You can buy 'em from Avery.
Anywhoooo, Van calls out rivets on the shorter side of spec to make it easier for the novice bucker. Also he plans in many MORE rivets than are needed for the design so that poorly set rivets will still hold the structure together. Of course, it is our goal to set them all according to "spec".
Does this help?
CJ
The term "callout" is when Van "calls for" a certain size fastener, material or part. When he refers to rivets, he "calls for" a certain diameter and length. Like already mentioned above, these lengths MAY BE SHORTER than MilSpec!
OK, now what is MilSpec? When these rivets were designed and strengths were tested, the military came up with standards. Once standards were found, they made specifications. They said that they need to be sooo long in order to make a decent shop head (a head formed in the shop, by YOU!).
We have these nifty little gauges in order to figure out how long they need to be BEFORE you squish 'em in order to make a nice big bulge AFTER you squish 'em! Of course, we have another gauge to measure the post squished diameter. You can buy 'em from Avery.
Anywhoooo, Van calls out rivets on the shorter side of spec to make it easier for the novice bucker. Also he plans in many MORE rivets than are needed for the design so that poorly set rivets will still hold the structure together. Of course, it is our goal to set them all according to "spec".
Does this help?
CJRV-7
Garmin G3X with VP-X & a TMX-IO-360 with G3i
It's all over but the flying! 800+ hours in only 3 years!
Garmin G3X with VP-X & a TMX-IO-360 with G3i
It's all over but the flying! 800+ hours in only 3 years!
Yeah you guys, I am clear now. I have the gauges from Avery and have been pounding for 10 days on the PREP of parts. Now actually ready to set some rivets on the horrizontal stab. Think I will practice on some scrap tho the rivets I did for the elevator hinge came out ok. Little tentative about doing the much lighter skins but now I am clear on the call out issue. thanks again you guys are right on top of it Cheers Gary