4-7 rivets

CalKid · Post by **CalKid** » Tue Feb 19, 2008 9:31 am

What's better squeezing 4-7s or using the rivet gun? I have no problems squeezing the 4-6s but bit concerned the 4-7s might be prone to bending over.

Post by **Spike** » Tue Feb 19, 2008 9:35 am

If the thickness of the material you are riveting is correct I don't think it should matter much. Rivets bending instead of "squatting" is generally a function of how much rivet length is exposed, and how straight your gun/squeezer is.

John

cjensen · Post by **cjensen** » Tue Feb 19, 2008 9:48 am

CK, are you using a hand squeezer or pneumatic? I started with a hand squeezer on the rear HS spar, and clubbed (bent over) about 40 rivets. I bought a pneumatic after that, and haven't had a problem.

Bottom line is, like Spike said, doesn't matter the length of rivet...you should always be moving the same amount of shop head whether it's a -7, -6, -3, or -16. The squeezer will always be easier, however.

captain_john · Post by **captain_john** » Tue Feb 19, 2008 11:29 am

If your rivets are clubbing, you have a different problem.

The length is only a factor in clubbing if you have too much shank extending from the surface of the material on the shop head side. Basically, it is difficult to get all that protruding material to lay down flat.

Early on, Chad and I had the same problem with hand squeezers. The cheap ones have poor alignment and tend to club the rivets. If you want a good hand squeeze, get an Avery or a Cleaveland Main Squeeze. Throw away all the others or use them only for dimpling.

A pneu squeeze is money well spent.

Does this help?

CJ

weezbad · Post by **weezbad** » Tue Feb 19, 2008 1:53 pm

when you get to 7's they tend to shift over a bit.due to the yoke flexing. if you will over reach a touch with the squeezer yoke it will drive straight. but you are better off using the gun

overreach means to put the tip of the yoke over center of the shop head JUST A TINY BIT and this will compensate for the spreading...

cjensen wrote: Bottom line is, like Spike said, doesn't matter the length of rivet...you should always be moving the same amount of shop head whether it's a -7, -6, -3, or -16. The squeezer will always be easier, however.

this is only true if there is not ANY slop in the hole. the 7 and up tend to bend over. the end tank rib is where this happens due to the number of layups.

TomNativeNewYorker · Post by **TomNativeNewYorker** » Tue Feb 19, 2008 5:18 pm

Usually rivets will bend over like a bent nail if they are too long.

On really long rivets, I thend to start of squeezing them a little, the coming back with a gun and blasting away.

Dan A · Post by **Dan A** » Tue Feb 19, 2008 10:31 pm

Remember that the part of the rivit that extends past the material should be 1.5 X rivit diameter. more length than that, the rivit tends to bend over.
Dan A.