wing wiring conduit
wing wiring conduit
I need to know the secret to getting the ribbed pastic wiring conduit from Van's through the wing ribs without mangling it. Anybody got o good hint?
Thanks
Tom H.
Thanks
Tom H.
Hi Tom, I used it and it is difficult to get through but once you get the hang of it not that bad. I found the easiest way was to sacrifice a couple of inches on the end. I just folded it so I could get it started through and then pulled working it back and forth one rib at a time. It made some awful noises but went in okay and didn't take very long at all.
Keep at it, it will fit!
Keep at it, it will fit!
JohnR
RV-7A - Fuselage - SOLD, just not supposed to be
Numbers 6:24 - The LORD bless thee, and keep thee
RV-7A - Fuselage - SOLD, just not supposed to be
Numbers 6:24 - The LORD bless thee, and keep thee
- Lorin Dueck
- Class D
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- Contact:
Tom -
I was successfull (i.e no crushed tubing and fairly fast progress) by doing the the following:
Count the number of ribs in the wing, and divide by two. Start there. By beginning at the "center" rib you are minimizing the number of ribs you need to pull the tubing through.
Next I worked from this point moving inboard since I wanted to do the closely spaced inboard ribs first while I was still fairly fresh.
I pulled the corrogated tubing through each rib by gently stretching the tubing (this seemed to make it thinner) and then working the free end up and down while pulling the end. It sounds awkward - but you'll get the hang of it after a couple of trys.
You'll soon get into a rhythm of "pull... stretch... wiggle up... wiggle down... pull again". Don't squeeze the tubing too hard. If you get the pattern right - you can jump through 2 or 3 rigdes for each attempt
Like I said this worked great for me, but I suggest you do one wing per day. The act of pulling and relaxing does tend to "pinch" your fingers.
When I finished - I did not have any crushed tubing - and was able to get through each of my 9A wings in about 45 minutes.
Good Luck!
Lorin D.
I was successfull (i.e no crushed tubing and fairly fast progress) by doing the the following:
Count the number of ribs in the wing, and divide by two. Start there. By beginning at the "center" rib you are minimizing the number of ribs you need to pull the tubing through.
Next I worked from this point moving inboard since I wanted to do the closely spaced inboard ribs first while I was still fairly fresh.
I pulled the corrogated tubing through each rib by gently stretching the tubing (this seemed to make it thinner) and then working the free end up and down while pulling the end. It sounds awkward - but you'll get the hang of it after a couple of trys.
You'll soon get into a rhythm of "pull... stretch... wiggle up... wiggle down... pull again". Don't squeeze the tubing too hard. If you get the pattern right - you can jump through 2 or 3 rigdes for each attempt
Like I said this worked great for me, but I suggest you do one wing per day. The act of pulling and relaxing does tend to "pinch" your fingers.
When I finished - I did not have any crushed tubing - and was able to get through each of my 9A wings in about 45 minutes.
Good Luck!
Lorin D.
- Wicked Stick
- Class B
- Posts: 1000
- Joined: Wed Feb 09, 2005 10:00 pm
- Location: KEWB
Perhaps some info on what size hole was used would help.
I'm sure if the diameter of the hole is different from builder to builder, it might make one person's pull through harder or easier than anothers.
I opted to slit my hose lengthwise before inserting it, because I had holes that were tight for the conduit when they were on the inside ridges.
Even with the slit, once the conduit is in place it remained a reasonable closed conduit, and I don't beleive I'll ever see the wire run escaping through the slit, unless it's manually opened up by hand to intentionally extract a wire. Having the slit really made it much easier to pass through the entire row of wing ribs.
Be sure to dab some proseal around each conduit where it comes in contact with the rib when your done. This will eliminate any vibration wear to the rib's hole from the conduit.
I'm sure if the diameter of the hole is different from builder to builder, it might make one person's pull through harder or easier than anothers.
I opted to slit my hose lengthwise before inserting it, because I had holes that were tight for the conduit when they were on the inside ridges.
Even with the slit, once the conduit is in place it remained a reasonable closed conduit, and I don't beleive I'll ever see the wire run escaping through the slit, unless it's manually opened up by hand to intentionally extract a wire. Having the slit really made it much easier to pass through the entire row of wing ribs.
Be sure to dab some proseal around each conduit where it comes in contact with the rib when your done. This will eliminate any vibration wear to the rib's hole from the conduit.
Dave "WS" Rogers
RV-8 (125 hrs & counting)
N173DR
RV-8 (125 hrs & counting)
N173DR
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- Class E
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- Lorin Dueck
- Class D
- Posts: 252
- Joined: Sun Dec 25, 2005 2:12 pm
- Location: San Jose, CA
- Contact:
Dynamic John -
Yes, of course you can use different tubing.
It's just a matter of preference and convenience.
For example, my father used non-ribbed tubing in his RV-9A.
I think it was left over stuff from his "in floor" heating system.
Just make sure you have it properly secured.
I decided to go the corrogatged "Van's route".
Simple and proven.
Lorin D
RV-9A Wings
Yes, of course you can use different tubing.
It's just a matter of preference and convenience.
For example, my father used non-ribbed tubing in his RV-9A.
I think it was left over stuff from his "in floor" heating system.
Just make sure you have it properly secured.
I decided to go the corrogatged "Van's route".
Simple and proven.
Lorin D
RV-9A Wings
-
- Class C
- Posts: 625
- Joined: Sat Nov 13, 2004 8:37 pm
- Location: Sartell MN
I used 1/2" vinyl tubing used for water lines in new construction homes. I am building an RV-6A Quickbuild and so I had the wing area behind the fuel tanks to pull the conduit into. My brother made a specail 5/8" drill up on a three foot extension rod to enlarge the holes and push out the bushings. It worked but in hind site I would use the corrigated slit conduit. I was given a lot of that right after I closed up my wings and had the other place. I think it is a lighter weight and easier to work with.
And lighter too. I put tubing in thinking that will make it easier to pull new wires in at a later date. 5 years and no additional wires. If I had it to do over I would use grommets and put all the wires in at once.jim_geo wrote:I went the way of the gromet. Easy enough?
Scott VanArtsdalen
Token Heretic
Nirvana Rodeo / Dudek Universal
S-6ES N612SV - GONE but not forgotten
RV-4 N311SV - SOLD
Token Heretic
Nirvana Rodeo / Dudek Universal
S-6ES N612SV - GONE but not forgotten
RV-4 N311SV - SOLD
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- Class E
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Thanks for the input. I was thinking grommets too, Good Enough for Beechcraft. I had the Thought of putting in an extra piece of string before closing. That way, if needed, I can pull another wire group though.
Last edited by dynamicjohn on Fri Apr 04, 2008 12:50 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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- Chief Rivet Banger
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That is what I am doing. I just bought extra snap bushings at a larger size than what we use for the pito and will be going that way. A friend has an 8A who did that and it worked out very well. He even ran wires after it was flying.jim_geo wrote:I went the way of the gromet. Easy enough?
John
http://www.rivetbangers.com - Now integrating web and mail!
Current Build: 2 years into a beautiful little girl
Current Build: 2 years into a beautiful little girl