Hardware for electrical components
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Hardware for electrical components
What's the recommended hardware for mounting things like ANL current limiters, fuse blocks etc?
Do you mean AN or not Bob? Or just what type of fastener, like AN3-? ? I'll be doing this same thing shortly as well, and I haven't given any thought to it. For the ANL, I'll probably use AN bolts in to a plate nut. Fuse blocks will get AN bolts with nuts on the threads.
Does that help, or am I not even close?
Does that help, or am I not even close?

- RVNewsletter
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- Joined: Wed Mar 29, 2006 9:57 am
- Location: St. Paul, MN.
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I guess I man the whole shootin' match. I bought fuse block holders and the current limiter base from B&C. It appears to want a flush head of some sort. And on the base, on the firewall side, it looks like it has an inset for something -- a washer? No idea.cjensen wrote:Do you mean AN or not Bob? Or just what type of fastener, like AN3-? ? I'll be doing this same thing shortly as well, and I haven't given any thought to it. For the ANL, I'll probably use AN bolts in to a plate nut. Fuse blocks will get AN bolts with nuts on the threads.
Does that help, or am I not even close?
Bob-
For the ANL current limiter I used a #10 MS24694 countersunk screw. I don't have the length, but if you want, I will unscrew it and take a look for ya (I do have a 063 backing plate and a platenut, FYI).
For the fuse blocks, they can take a #10 screw. However, I couldn't find a #10 screw or bolt who's head would be recessed in the hole in the fuse block nicely. So I used #8 AN515 screws with AN960-8 washers and the appropriate lock nut. Once again, if you want me to get the size screw I used (I used two lengths - one for holding one fuse block to the rib, and another for holding two fuse blocks to the rib), let me know. The #8's seemed to work fine. After all, its not like the fuse block mounting is structural. Its plastic!
For the ANL current limiter I used a #10 MS24694 countersunk screw. I don't have the length, but if you want, I will unscrew it and take a look for ya (I do have a 063 backing plate and a platenut, FYI).
For the fuse blocks, they can take a #10 screw. However, I couldn't find a #10 screw or bolt who's head would be recessed in the hole in the fuse block nicely. So I used #8 AN515 screws with AN960-8 washers and the appropriate lock nut. Once again, if you want me to get the size screw I used (I used two lengths - one for holding one fuse block to the rib, and another for holding two fuse blocks to the rib), let me know. The #8's seemed to work fine. After all, its not like the fuse block mounting is structural. Its plastic!
Mike Bullock
http://www.rvplane.com
RV-7 | Superior IO-360 | Whirlwind 200RV
Garmin GTN650 | GRT Dual Sport SX EFIS
Status: FLYING!
http://www.rvplane.com
RV-7 | Superior IO-360 | Whirlwind 200RV
Garmin GTN650 | GRT Dual Sport SX EFIS
Status: FLYING!
- RVNewsletter
- Class D
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- Joined: Wed Mar 29, 2006 9:57 am
- Location: St. Paul, MN.
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I used either #6 or #8 AN screws to mount my whole instrument panel. I used plate luts in some places and other I used AN lock nuts of the correct size. The RV-A plans call for the use of #10 screws and plate nuts to screw the boot cowl to the aluminum angle on the Instrument panel. The other screws are #8. My circut breaker switches all used #8 Screws. The Dynon use #6 screws and nutplates.