DRDT-2

Snap · Post by **Snap** » Wed May 10, 2006 12:58 am

Ok, Now I am stuck. I want to order the DRDT-2 (all Bow!!) and I was enquiring on the price to get it here to me in Australia.
Price of Unit: $333.00. Price of shipping: $450.00!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Am I allowed to cry?

Any ideas? I cant ship it with Emp kit. No place for it to go.

Umm.... Chad (said in sexy girly voice) , you have one. What do you think it will cost to send it US post surface mail. Can you find out? I am not in a rush at the moment as I am going away for a month. But....I WANT ONE!!!
You guys might be able to help me solve this.

prestwich · Post by **prestwich** » Wed May 10, 2006 1:14 am

Snap,

For most people I'd recommend buying the complete unit, because the cost savings isn't worth building your own frame. For you, it looks like it might be better for you to buy the head unit and build your own frame.

The unit weighs 60 pounds, but the front end kit can't be more than a couple of pounds. It sells for $145.

You can go to ups.com or usps.com to calculate shipping for the whole unit if you want to verify the shipping cost that was given to you.

Jon

Snap · Post by **Snap** » Wed May 10, 2006 4:49 am

But I want the whole thing

captain_john · Post by **captain_john** » Wed May 10, 2006 5:04 am

Snap, I made my own.

It isn't a precision assembly at all. Most anyone with MIG skills could do it for you.

Given shipping costs, I second the "build it there" comment!

CJ

Post by **Spike** » Wed May 10, 2006 7:51 am

He wants to build his own plane, but he wont build his own tools *snicker*

cjensen · Post by **cjensen** » Wed May 10, 2006 8:48 am

We can certainly check on the post surface cost for you. The only problem with that service is that it can take over a month to get to you. Who knows where it goes in the meantime...I'll do what I can to help you figure this out!

Snap · Post by **Snap** » Wed May 10, 2006 10:37 am

Spike you make me laugh. Good one.

Wicked Stick · Post by **Wicked Stick** » Wed May 10, 2006 2:07 pm

Given the amount of shipping costs due to the weight, I'd pass on getting one. I have built my entire RV-8 with the Avery C-frame unit, and it works very well for me.. In fact, I'd like to wager I could dimple a skin a bit faster with it now that I have the built in table for it. It seems to me the DRDT gets a little slow having to bring the handle over and down each time. A couple of quick hits on the deadblow seem quicker. Heck even a 5 year old can do it.

HOWEVER, if you were to mount the pneumatic squeezer to the DRDT and add a foot pedal switch, then that would be the ultimate way to go. It would also be the fastest cause you could use the foot pedal to activate it, leaving your hands free to move the skin from hole to hole.

To each his own though.. just my two cents worth.

ptrotter · Post by **ptrotter** » Wed May 10, 2006 10:34 pm

I find the DRDT-2 faster than the C-Frame. I mounted a small laser pointer on the side that points at the die. That way I can guide the hole right onto the die with one hand and pull the handle with the other. I never have to raise the handle very much above the material. I beleive that the C-Frame will make a better dimple though, due to the way the spring-back dies work.

captain_john · Post by **captain_john** » Thu May 11, 2006 5:42 am

Ya DAWG! Don't be DISSIN' my Dee Arr Dee Tee!

The thing about it is, you still have both hands to move the sheet around and no chance of dropping the hammer onto the material... cause you don't have one!

The silence is BEAUTY, too!

No double hits for thick material, either!

Go get him, Paullie!

CJ

bmurrish · Post by **bmurrish** » Thu May 11, 2006 6:29 am

Snap,

I am working on my -8 fuselage and have used a C-frame from Cleaveland Tools up to this point. I really don't see what the big fuss is over dimpling. If I were you, I would save yourself the money and just go with the c-frame. Thousands of RVs have been built that way. While we are on the subject. I would skip on the pnuematic squeezer as well. Once again, really a non-issue using my Cleaveland squeezer.

My .02 cents

cjensen · Post by **cjensen** » Thu May 11, 2006 8:54 am

The biggest argument I can qualify for purchasing this high priced piece of equipment is the lack of noise. I took one look at the number of holes on EACH wing skin, and decided right then and there I was gonna buy one.

The C-frame IS a great tool, don't get me wrong, I still use it at times, but it's SO FREAKING LOUD!!!

Wicked Stick · Post by **Wicked Stick** » Thu May 11, 2006 9:01 am

bmurrish wrote:Snap,

I am working on my -8 fuselage and have used a C-frame from Cleaveland Tools up to this point. I really don't see what the big fuss is over dimpling. If I were you, I would save yourself the money and just go with the c-frame. Thousands of RVs have been built that way. While we are on the subject. I would skip on the pnuematic squeezer as well. Once again, really a non-issue using my Cleaveland squeezer.

My .02 cents

I have to completely dis-agree with you on the Pneumatic squeezer comment. I would NOT want to build without one. The speed and quality you get with the Pneumatic squeezer with the adjustable shaft is my second best tool in the shop. (the first being everyone who has visited and helped)

Snap, If you can only afford one, skip the DRDT and get a pneumatic squeezer.

Oh, and about the noise of the C-frame, yes I found it very loud if you put it on the bench. BUT, if you place it on the concrete floor, it's reduces the noise ten fold. So much so, that I was dimpling a skin with it last night at 11:00 p.m. and the wife remained fast asleep above me and never knew I was downstairs.

prestwich · Post by **prestwich** » Thu May 11, 2006 9:23 am

Uh-Oh. Dimpler war.

Snap, I've said it before: the DRDT is nothing short of exquisite. Thousands of airplanes were built using tin snips and a file, but that doesn't mean yours should be. Yer gonna spend the next five years hacking away on this beast, so you might as well try to enjoy some of that time. Dimpling with the DRDT is by FAR the most fun part of building! Its superiority over the hammer whack method is exponential.

So go ahead and embrace technology. Matched hole kit, pneumatic squeezer with good selection of yokes, plenty of bucking bars, and the King Daddy Dimpler. In fact, if you have to spend $783 for it, just shut up and write the check and don't look back.

Don't pay any attention to those Luddites mumbling in the background...

ptrotter · Post by **ptrotter** » Thu May 11, 2006 10:40 pm

I have a DRDT-2 as well as a pneumatic squeezer (2 in fact) and while I love the DRDT-2, I would give it up way before I give up the pneumatic squeezer. I did my empenage with a C-frame and it was not a problem at all. I could have done everything with it but I like to play with new tools so I got yhe DRDT-2. I consider the pneumatic squeezer a necessity, but the DRDT-2 is a nice to have. A pneumatic squeezer can be operated with one hand, leaving the other hand to hold the work piece, and it can get into smaller places than a hand squeezer. I think I squeezed 1 rivet with my hand squeezer.

My problem these days is that I have too many tools, not too few

gbrasch · Post by **gbrasch** » Fri May 12, 2006 6:26 pm

I, too agree with the above comment to just go out and buy a C Frame given the shipping costs involved. I did my whole airplane with it, and never botched a hole. The guy that makes the unit is a friend who lives in the same town as me, so Paul, if you are reading this, excuse me. But a C frame works just fine......

lancef53 · Post by **lancef53** » Sat May 26, 2007 8:52 am

I see this is an old post, but is the front of the DRDT-2 still available, I don't see it on the planetools site. All they list is the whole thing for $340.
Thanks, Lance

Brantel · Post by **Brantel** » Sat May 26, 2007 11:28 am

lancef53 wrote:I see this is an old post, but is the front of the DRDT-2 still available, I don't see it on the planetools site. All they list is the whole thing for $340.
Thanks, Lance

Yep http://www.experimentalaero.com/DRDT-2.htm