Compressors?!?

[N200PF]

Today I began the search for the compressor I plan use. After going through 3 people at Home Depot that didn’t know there was such a thing as a two stage compressor, the 4th gentleman had “heard of a two stage compressor” but could tell me if it’s more appropriate for the work I’ll be doing.



They had a single stage, 5hp, 26 gallon oil motor compressor that throws 6.6 CFM @ 40 PSI or 5.8 CFM @ 90 PSI. They also had an oil-less 5hp with NO CFM SPECS listed anywhere on the compressor, the box or the manuals!!! (Yes we even tore it open and couldn't find any CFM specs!) Is option A enough even for the grinding work or should I be looking at a two stage compressor? …or the 60 gallon single stage?

Thanks for the help!!!

- Peter

[captain_john]

Well, ummmmm...

Lotsa questions in this one.

Single stage is all you need. Two stage compressors are designed to run at higher pressures. You pay more for that. A single stage will normally pressurize up to 125 PSI. You will normally use 90 PSI or less, but PSI isn't your yardstick here. CFM at 90 PSI is. Check all the units you compare to get the most CFM at 90 PSI.

The air capacity is your other measure of importance. The capacity will allow your motor to cycle less.

Another factor is the motor/compressor design. All have benefits and drawbacks.

I prefer a belt driven compressor. Reason being, if one part fails you can replace it. This is why I bought a Craftsman. Sears sells ALL replacement parts and will ship them to you.

When it comes to compressor units, an aluminum "jugged" steel SLEEVED unit will serve you well. It is made for the demanding non commercial user. The aluminum dissapates the heat nicely and the steel sleeve stands up to the wear and tear of rigorous use.

I have a 5 hp, 60 Gallon, 9 CFM@90 PSI sears Craftsman Single Stage unit. It works very well and I found it on clearance for $260!!!

Woo Hoo!

CJ

[N200PF]

SEARS!!! I didn't even think of heading over there!

I hate to admit it but I have gotten used to Home Depot based on selection and how close they are to me...and have learned to accept their TERRIBLE service!

I'll head over to Sear today!

- Peter

[captain_john]

BTW, any price ending in .88 is a clearance item!

Work on them for a better price!

Good Luck!

CJ

[N200PF]

GOOD INFO!!! I'll remember that about the .88!

I consider getting a better price entertainment at store like Home Depot! I find the manager that can make the call on the price and work him over until he is showing me what their cost is on the computer and telling me that they "need to keep the lights on"!

That's when you know your getting close to their best price...

I didn't make it over to Sears today but I'll go tomorrow. Next it's on to Cleaveland Tools for a 2X starter kit. Fun Fun Fun!

- Peter

[captain_john]

I have a Home Depot pricing story for ya...

While passing the cull lumber, I see a piece of cull 1/4" plywood without a price ,arking on it. They price it with flourescent spray paint. Green is the cheapest at $0.51. After trying to get staff to price it for me for too long, I walk over to the paint section, grab some green paint, spray the pieces and pay for them at the register.

The way I see it, If I have to price it myself, I can set my own prices!

CJ

[N200PF]

GOOD HUMOR!!! We'll just call it the Home Depot Co-Op!

I am telling you that place the the WORLDS WORST customer service!

The only people in the store that know their stuff (or even care to know) are the older guys that work there on the weekends for fun. I have had GREAT luck with almost all the retired part-timers at Home Depot! They LIKE helping and have been through everything you have...twice! The kids just make sure they get their breaks in!

...oh no, I am 36 and ripping on kids already.

- Peter

[Heater777]

If I had to do it all over again I would go with the oiled setup 220 volt 60 gallon model. First because they are QUIET compared to my Coleman Costco special, which works just fine for building but is noisey, second when you get into using the paint sprayer, die grinder or running the drill for long periods ie wing skins and spars it runs constantly. I have hope to paint my aircraft myself so I know that this compressor won't cut it. Live and learn, but if I had it to do over I would jump on the big ole hionking beltdriven 220 volt manly one.

Also I noticed a 2x kit getting ordered...I have a sioux 3x and love it...go with the 3x, you can reduce pressure and make it hit very close to a 2x but you can't crank up a 2x high enough to "easily" do the -4 rivets...of course I'm building a RV-10, I think there are ALOT more -4 rivets in that kit than the other RV's but I'm speculating about that. The trigger is really nice on my gun and I can actually get it to hit "once more" which drive me crazy when my bucking partner says that.

[N200PF]

HEATER -

I have settled on Sioux but I am nervous about a 3X to start out. I just feel that I'm going to over pound too many rivets before I pick up the feel of the trigger.

Did you start with a 2X ad now just like the 3X or did you start with the 3X?

- Peter

[Spike]

I just did the training kit with a 3X gun. Never having driven a rivet I did just fine. This isnt rocket science. Get the 3x if you want to. Remember, air pressure is the key here. Just turn it back.

-- john

[N200PF]

That's GREAT advice! I'll try moving the air pressure in my training class and see what I can come up with for an airfoil with the 3X!

I guess it's all about getting some experience before your kit arrives eh?

Thanks Spike!

- Peter

[182ppl]

you might be disapointed with the driving ability of the 2X gun on your 1/8" rivits.