Here are some photos of the Practice Kits. I just had to paint the tool box.
The Wing Kit. Don't worry about the rivets not dimpled deep/ hard enough. I had to use a Pop dimpler to do it til the DRDT2 gets here.
I tell ya I'm having so much fun!!!
You can see that I have written on the part numbers. I am alittle worries that when the guys prime in PPG I will not be able to tell one rib from another. What should I do? I know they say that sharpy's will bleed through but......
RV-7A Emp
I would rather have a bottle in front of me than a frontal lobotomy.
If you use a red Sharpie it will show through about anything. Just don't use it anywhere that is visible as it will even come through the paint layer. Don't even ask how I know. I would prefer to not talk about it.
JohnR
RV-7A - Fuselage - SOLD, just not supposed to be
Numbers 6:24 - The LORD bless thee, and keep thee
attach a piece of safety wire with some sort of identification number attached to the parts getting sprayed. painters like safety wire attached to the bottom of the part anyway as it gives them something to grab and hold on to so the part doesnt move while spraying, and so they can turn as needed to get coverage on all surfaces.
Okay, I'm going to throw a grenade into this post that is sure to send a shockwave across RivetBangers. Use an engraver Don't worry, it must be ok since Dan Checkoway did it. http://www.rvproject.com/tools.html I know Van's tell you not to do it in the first part of the instructions, but then they contradict themselves and tell you it is okay to do it later. I feel if it is done light enough that it shouldn't cause any harm.
FWIW, thus far on the -10, my technique has been to cut, debur, and counter-sink; prime; assemble to match drill; debur holes; then final assembly. Since all those little interchangable pieces aren't matched-drilled to anything when being primed, they can go anywhere. I haven't had any trouble figuring out what piece goes where, even with no markings. Just another technique. -Jim
fehdxl wrote:FWIW, thus far on the -10, my technique has been to cut, debur, and counter-sink; prime; assemble to match drill; debur holes; then final assembly. Since all those little interchangable pieces aren't matched-drilled to anything when being primed, they can go anywhere. I haven't had any trouble figuring out what piece goes where, even with no markings. Just another technique. -Jim
Jim,
If your dimpling holes before drilling to final size, your really risking the posibility of cracking or stressing the aluminum in the hole area since the dimple dies are stretching the hole more than they would if it were final drilled size.
It is your project, and you can do it any way you want, but I just wanted to comment on it being non-standard procedure. (the standard being to match drill to final size, then debur, then dimple.)
My bad, it's been a long couple weeks of work and not enough building ... how about this...
cut, debur, and counter-sink everything except rivet holes; prime; assemble and match drill to final size; debur holes; dimple; then final assembly.
Does that make more sense? My point is just that you can prime before fitting everything together thus negating the need to mark and label interchangable parts before priming.
I usually use strategically placed center punch marks that I also mark in blue sharpie on the plans. When doing left and right parts I only mark the left parts.
However, this method wouldn't work for the wing ribs. So after I match drilled the main wing ribs to the spars, I stacked them in order from outboard to inboard. I had two stacks, one for left and one stack for right ribs. I put a wire tag on the two outboard ribs. All thru the prepping and priming process I just kept unstacking and stacking them in the same order.
By doing it that way, I never had to mark any of the ribs with anything.
(Here is where I would usually attempt to insert the picture I have in the gallery to illustrate this - but I'm not fallin for that this time)
