Think access. You can't get a 3" yoke in some tight spaces that you can get a 1" yoke in. Alternatively, a 1" yoke will flex more than a 3" yoke will which will affect your ability to set the rivet. So, think 3" for big accessible rivets. And the smaller yokes for harder to reach rivets (which are typically smaller.)
-- Spike
Why do we need 1", 2", and 3" hand squeezers?
Doesn't it make sense that a 3" yoke will do everything the others will do?
Will a 1" yoke flex more? Seems to me it would be stiffer since there is not as much throat.
I would consider getting a longeron and a thin nose yoke before all those; I have these two plus a 3" standard and haven't needed anything else yet. There are some rivets (in addition to the obvious skin rivets) that cannot be squeezed in the empennage, but the combination of these three yokes gets most everything. My 3" yoke is the stiffest and has the least flex of all 3 yokes.
The longer the reach on a yoke, the more apt it is to flex. That's why the 4" yokes for pneumatic rivet squeezers have a 1 1/4" base and are so much beefier all around that the smaller yokes.
You will start to notice some serious deflection on the Tatco 3" yoke on 1/8" rivets. The smaller yokes will not do so. Many people suggest you use the smallest yoke applicable to the job as there is also a matter of balancing a heavier yoke when you don't need to.