Dimpled brain

[prestwich]

OK, I'm completely confused about dimpling. I want to build my own dimpler, either a c-frame type or a dimple table. Since I haven't started the plane yet and haven't seen one being built, I'm not sure what I need and don't need. I've read the relevant threads on this forum and looked at the pictures everyone has posted.

I like the idea of a dimple table, but the c-frames have an angled front, which evidently isn't possible with the table idea. I assume there are situations in which the flat table just doesn't work? On the other hand, I noticed pics of a C-frame with the bottom member *under* the table it's mounted on. Doesn't that make the angled front superfluous? I almost feel as though I don't understand this enough to ask the right questions.

Also, how much working room do I need around the dimpler? My "shop" is tiny, and if I build a dimple table, how much room do I need around the dimple dies themselves to manuever airplane parts?

TIA for any help.

[captain_john]

Sooo, umm... which question do you want me to answer first?

Get a DRDT dimpler from Paul Merems at www.experimentalaero.com and you will LOVE it!

Fot the emp kit you won't need a table. Just bolt it down to a bench and dimple away!

Does that answer your questions??

CJ

[Spike]

I used the dimpler on a "table" anywhere I can. I actually made two platforms that were the same height as the male die when sitting in the dimpler. I then put one on either side of the C-frame (or where I need them) and use them to support the pieces while working. It works out pretty well.

-- John

[l & d lewis]

I built my C-frame dimpler (Avery Tools) into a groove in the table/bench so I could move it back and forth, and extend the end past the edge of the table if needed to get into tight bends. The carpet on the table is level with the die to support the skin being dimpled. You can also pick the C-frame out and move it around as necessary. I built the table/bench 4X8 and put the groove for the C-frame in the center. It offers quite a large working surface. It worked OK for the empennage, don't know how its going to work for the wings...............Larry

[prestwich]

All right, thanks for the comments. I think my real question is, what percentage of rivet holes on an RV could be dimpled with a c-frame or dimple table? If it's fifty-fifty, it sounds like I need both. But if it's skewed dramatically, I'd go with the one that would get the most use. I like the table idea versus stacking up things to make the skin level with the dimpler, but if there aren't many flat panels to dimple then the C-frame may be more useful. But, I really like Larry's "combo" suggestion the best. And CJ, I do like the DRDT and may well order one. Beats the hammer whack approach.

I mentioned building something, because what I'd really like to do is make a dimpler with a (foot-activated) pneumatic cylinder. That would leave me both hands free to move the workpiece around. But, maybe by the time I got that built, I could have dimpled half the holes in the plane anyway.

[cjensen]

i am planning on dimpling everything with my home-made c-frame or squeezer. the tables are nice, but they take up space and are not necessary. if space is limited, just go with the c-frame for DRDT.

[prestwich]

Just got my DRDT-2 today. Don't have enough superlatives to describe it. Must beat the whack-it-with-a-hammer C-frames by a factor of 10 for ease of use, speed, quality, and precision of dimples.