Least Poisonous Metal Prep Solvent
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- Class G
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Least Poisonous Metal Prep Solvent
Although I haven't made the decision on exactly what priming system to use, many of the systems call for cleaning / degreasing one or two times with a solvent like lacquer thinner or MEK. I'm wondering if denatured alcohol is an acceptable substitute as I believe that, being mostly ethanol, the vapors are probably relatively nonpoisonous. I've even considered getting reagent grade ethanol without any methanol.
Now, don't get me wrong. I've already acquired a Hobby Air respirator and am about to plumb in a fresh air source for it from far away from my shop. My thought is that it would still be best to use the least personally and environmentally damaging solvent available. Am I off base?
- John
Now, don't get me wrong. I've already acquired a Hobby Air respirator and am about to plumb in a fresh air source for it from far away from my shop. My thought is that it would still be best to use the least personally and environmentally damaging solvent available. Am I off base?
- John
After trying a bunch of different approaches I finally settled on a simple wash with alcohol and a fine scotchbrite pad followed by rattle can acid etch primer. I went with alcohol for the same reasons you a thinking about it, no or extremely low toxicity compared to other solvents like mek.
All I can say is , so far so good. The primer seems bomb proof with good adhesion. The real test will be 10 years down the line but to be honest my Cessna 172 does not have even a little primer on it and it's over 30 years old with NO Problems at all so who knows if it's even necessary
Craig
All I can say is , so far so good. The primer seems bomb proof with good adhesion. The real test will be 10 years down the line but to be honest my Cessna 172 does not have even a little primer on it and it's over 30 years old with NO Problems at all so who knows if it's even necessary
Craig
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- Class G
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- Wicked Stick
- Class B
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Metal Prep 79
It's blue in color and is perfect for prepping aluminum.
You let it soak in, rub it around, and then wash off with water.
It's kind of like Dawn Dishwashing liquid, but wear gloves as it does have some etching solution to it.
It works great for killing any minor corrosion on used aluminum too.
Just be sure not to let it dry out on the part, and rinse with water thoroughly. Also, you can dilute it with water to get more mileage out of it.
It's blue in color and is perfect for prepping aluminum.
You let it soak in, rub it around, and then wash off with water.
It's kind of like Dawn Dishwashing liquid, but wear gloves as it does have some etching solution to it.
It works great for killing any minor corrosion on used aluminum too.
Just be sure not to let it dry out on the part, and rinse with water thoroughly. Also, you can dilute it with water to get more mileage out of it.
Dave "WS" Rogers
RV-8 (125 hrs & counting)
N173DR
RV-8 (125 hrs & counting)
N173DR
painting is fun.....he prep not so much. But The amount of cleaner you need is actually minor unless you are doing a full prime and seal every surface. I only used 1qt of acetone and another qt of lacquer thinner during my whole build.
BTW-the guy I worked with painting has an offer from someone who wants to buy his autoshop. There will be a non-compete clause, SO he wants to build a big hangar and start painting planes. He's already done 18 so figured he could do more if people could fly in. We may team up, I need something to do anyway.
BTW-the guy I worked with painting has an offer from someone who wants to buy his autoshop. There will be a non-compete clause, SO he wants to build a big hangar and start painting planes. He's already done 18 so figured he could do more if people could fly in. We may team up, I need something to do anyway.
Brian
Townsend, MT
Townsend, MT
- Mike Balzer
- Class E
- Posts: 147
- Joined: Tue May 20, 2008 11:18 pm
- Location: Saugus, CA
I just used Isopropal Alcohol for wipe down before priming. I put it in a spray bottle and use a clean rag/towel to wipe surfaces dry.
Havent had no issues and is better for you than acetone or MEK.
Mike Balzer
Havent had no issues and is better for you than acetone or MEK.
Mike Balzer
It is better to be on the ground wishing you were in the air, then being in the air and wishing you were on the ground. N78MB
- Wicked Stick
- Class B
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- Location: KEWB
I followed the advice of my tech counselor, Randy Lervold, throughout the build, using naptha. More commonly known as Coleman Lantern Fuel. It comes in a rectangular can and a gallon costs less than $5.00. It's the perfect cleaner as far as I'm concerned. It's much less obnoxious than MEK or acetone. I use it with a scotchbrite pad to scuff and clean at the same time. Works great.
I've also used some of the Metal Prep 79, diluted with water per the directions. I've had excellent results both ways.
I've also used some of the Metal Prep 79, diluted with water per the directions. I've had excellent results both ways.
Thanks, Chad! Sounds like I'm a bit late to help you with your plane, but hopefully it will help someone else here, or for your next project.
For anyone interested in reading Randy's comments about primer and using naptha for prep work on his website, here's a link:
http://www.romeolima.com/RV3works/Airfr ... tml#Primer
For anyone interested in reading Randy's comments about primer and using naptha for prep work on his website, here's a link:
http://www.romeolima.com/RV3works/Airfr ... tml#Primer
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- Class G
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Re:
If I were you, I would have used bleach instead of something aggressive.clreding wrote: ↑Mon Dec 13, 2010 10:34 amAfter trying a bunch of different approaches I finally settled on a simple wash with alcohol and a fine scotchbrite pad followed by rattle can acid etch primer. I went with alcohol for the same reasons you a thinking about it, no or extremely low toxicity compared to other solvents like mek.
All I can say is , so far so good. The primer seems bomb proof with good adhesion enseigne Antibes. The real test will be 10 years down the line but to be honest my Cessna 172 does not have even a little primer on it and it's over 30 years old with NO Problems at all so who knows if it's even necessary
Craig