T-405 Tank Attach Bracket

Womack2005 · Post by **Womack2005** » Fri Feb 09, 2007 4:30 pm

So, I finished the first T-405 last night. While fitting it in the inboard tank rib, it looks like it will interfere with the most forward rivets on the top and bottom of T-703 rib. What am I missing here?

cjensen · Post by **cjensen** » Fri Feb 09, 2007 4:41 pm

Eeewww...you've already riveted T-405 to the rib??? The rib to skin rivets need to be set before T-405 is riveted to the rib...

captain_john · Post by **captain_john** » Fri Feb 09, 2007 5:23 pm

...or you COULD scallop the 405 in the places where the rivets go, like I did.

CJ

Womack2005 · Post by **Womack2005** » Fri Feb 09, 2007 5:35 pm

Ah Ha! No, I haven't riveted anything yet. I was thinking the 405 got riveted first. I just didn't read ahead far enough I guess. I'm still iffy on the exact position the 405 goes in the rib. And exactly how big to shape the foot of the 405.

tshort · Post by **tshort** » Fri Feb 09, 2007 5:59 pm

I decided to rivet the bracket on after the skin rivets were done ... it is no big deal to reach in there with the bucking bar and set a few rivets. I figured that would be easier than squeezing the skin rivets with the bracket already there. I did have to scallop it a little to clear the shop heads....

T.

cjensen · Post by **cjensen** » Fri Feb 09, 2007 6:28 pm

Another thing to keep in mind at this stage, is to make sure you leave enough room for the Bnut to turn between 470 rivet heads.

cjensen · Post by **cjensen** » Fri Feb 09, 2007 6:29 pm

CJ, even with the scallop, how did you get a bar in there to buck it?

captain_john · Post by **captain_john** » Fri Feb 09, 2007 7:07 pm

It's an end rib.

A no hole yoke worked like a charm!

CJ

Wicked Stick · Post by **Wicked Stick** » Fri Feb 09, 2007 10:31 pm

For me, I just found it easier to rivet that on after the rib was riveted to the skin.

Great point and picture Chad, showing the flop tube fixture.
You do want to make sure you have enough space for that while your marking out the holes for the rivets.

cjensen · Post by **cjensen** » Fri Feb 09, 2007 10:39 pm

Oops...forgot to mention (actually, I forgot completely) that that fitting is for flop tube only...

Thanks Dave!

Thermos · Post by **Thermos** » Sat Feb 10, 2007 6:48 am

Womack2005 wrote:I'm still iffy on the exact position the 405 goes in the rib. And exactly how big to shape the foot of the 405.

Me too. I followed the plans drawing of the T-405 to shape it, but wasn't really clear about how far forward it fits in the rib leading edge. I'll probably pull the measurement off the plans.

One bit of advice I got from Van's was to not even drill the bracket to the rib until the rib was riveted in place....

Dave

captain_john · Post by **captain_john** » Sat Feb 10, 2007 9:34 am

Oh, I see the question now!

Position (forward/aft/slightly cocked) doesn't matter at all! The attach point on the fuse side is INFINITELY adjustable, sooooo. just hammer it on like it looks in the pretty pictures!

Dave, that is good advice. Skootch it back a bit so it doesn't interfere with the LE rivets and drill it.

Don't be overthinking it!

CJ

Womack2005 · Post by **Womack2005** » Sat Feb 10, 2007 9:34 am

Thanks for all the advise guys! I'm glad I asked about this

I haven't read far enough along in the plans to see how critical the placement of the 405 flange is that will actually attach to the fuse. I don't want to find out later that the flange is too far forward or aft to mate properly with the fuse.

Not really sure what the plans are trying to dimension here:

Womack2005 · Post by **Womack2005** » Sat Feb 10, 2007 9:35 am

Now THAT is funny!!! Disregard my last post CJ!

captain_john · Post by **captain_john** » Sat Feb 10, 2007 9:36 am

CJ