Attaching the NACA scoop vents

Thermos · Post by **Thermos** » Sat Feb 08, 2014 6:36 am

Another interior question for you guys - what method did you use to attach the plastic scoops to your NACA vents on the fuselage? I know some of you have riveted, some have done Proseal, some have done both.

I'd like to attach mine before I paint the interior (coming up soon) and am leaning toward using just Proseal but feedback would be much appreciated.

Dave

captain_john · Post by **captain_john** » Sat Feb 08, 2014 10:35 am

Dave, I did both.

Proseal for the "sealing" aspect and rivets for the "structure" aspect.

I also prosealed on a little aluminum screen over the outlet side so I don't get blasted with bugs and debris when it is open and on the ground.

CJ

painless · Post by **painless** » Sat Feb 08, 2014 11:31 am

I just prosealed them on. I was concerned about possibly cracking the plastic while setting rivets. If you scuff up the plastic as well as where the duct will rest on the aluminum, you should have no trouble. Don't clamp the duct too tight while the proseal is curing. You don't want too thin of a thickness of material between the two parts. All you are attaching to that duct is a flexible hose, which the proseal is more than capable of handling. No trouble with mine in 7 years of use, albeit low flight time.

I suggest you proseal them on and then before you paint the interior, and after the proseal has had a chance to really cure, try pulling them off. You'll probably see that they are on there for good. If not, rivet away.

Thermos · Post by **Thermos** » Mon Feb 10, 2014 12:56 pm

I'm likin' the proseal-only approach, but I definitely want a bug screen in there too...

TomNativeNewYorker · Post by **TomNativeNewYorker** » Mon Feb 10, 2014 3:46 pm

painless wrote:I just prosealed them on. I was concerned about possibly cracking the plastic while setting rivets.

Normal rivets such as MS20470AD3-5 are a heat treated rivet. If you need to rivet plastic or fiberglass, you can use an "A" rivet. MS20470A3-5 instead leaving out the "D".

Much softer rivet, easier to buck without worrying about cracking your fiberglass/plastic.

Good for assembling NON-STURCTURAL items, and gives a little bit of piece of mind instead of something being held together with just adhesive or sealant.

painless · Post by **painless** » Mon Feb 10, 2014 5:16 pm

TomNativeNewYorker wrote:
painless wrote:I just prosealed them on. I was concerned about possibly cracking the plastic while setting rivets.
Normal rivets such as MS20470AD3-5 are a heat treated rivet. If you need to rivet plastic or fiberglass, you can use an "A" rivet. MS20470A3-5 instead leaving out the "D".

Much softer rivet, easier to buck without worrying about cracking your fiberglass/plastic.

Good for assembling NON-STURCTURAL items, and gives a little bit of piece of mind instead of something being held together with just adhesive or sealant.

Good to know. Thanks for the info.

leffler · Post by **leffler** » Tue Feb 11, 2014 8:45 am

I used proseal on my RV-10 as well as several of my friends. Several have been flying for over five years and haven't lost a NACA vent yet.

I too put a piece of fiberglass screen underneath the scat tube that connects the NACA vent to the panel and my overhead console.

bob

hydroguy2 · Post by **hydroguy2** » Tue Feb 11, 2014 10:13 pm

Proseal only for me

BSwayze · Post by **BSwayze** » Tue Feb 25, 2014 12:14 am

I prosealed mine on as well and I have no regrets. My plane isn't flying yet, but like Painless said, try pulling 'em off! I scuffed them up along with the aluminum on the inside skin where they mate. They're never coming off.

I also posted some pics on my website, if you're interested in seeing how I did it. Some big clamps did the trick.