Brake pedal return springs

Brantel · Post by **Brantel** » Sat Mar 15, 2008 8:20 pm

Yep like Chad sez, these must be loose because there is no boss for the nut to tighten down on. If you tighten them up, it will clamp metal to metal and you will get major sticktion.

Some have gone as far as using brass bushings and shoulder bolts etc. but this is overkill.

aparchment · Post by **aparchment** » Sat Mar 15, 2008 9:23 pm

Hey Chad --

Yup -- I used the 310-3s or whatever was called for in the plans.

I will cut the cotter pins, loosen them up and put in new cotter pins.

Thanks guys.

So what do you all think about the issue of the springs limiting the travel of the cylinders?

Antony

cjensen · Post by **cjensen** » Sat Mar 15, 2008 10:14 pm

Yeah, 310-3's are the correct nut...just no torque...

As far as the cylinder travel, once you bleed your brakes, the piston won't move more than an inch (or thereabouts) in the cylinder. If you're concerned about it, can you move the spring retainer up a bit?

I can't see this being an issue once the lines are filled.

aparchment · Post by **aparchment** » Sun Mar 16, 2008 2:47 pm

Works slick now! I was just worried about loosening it up too much an introducing slop.

Thanks Chad.

RV9inIowa · Post by **RV9inIowa** » Fri May 09, 2008 4:52 pm

CJ - since you are so good at powdercoating (like your cool engine mount) I thought I'd ask a question. I'm up to brake pedals and was thinking of having them PC'd. Is that what you did? If so, should I rough them up first and give them a shot of NAPA 7220?

Thanks,

PS - I'm copying your brake spring idea too.

dave

Post by **bullojm1** » Fri May 09, 2008 5:35 pm

Dave-

I got my brake pedals PC'd a few months ago:

I just roughed them up, cleaned them well with acetone and handed them off to the power coater. You don't want any primer on their - that would probably adversely effect the bond.

cjensen · Post by **cjensen** » Fri May 09, 2008 7:29 pm

I did not PC mine, but I should have. They are just painted red.

But like Mike said, rough 'em a little, and hand them over to the PCer. I haven't done any of mine myself.

BTW, there is a PC primer that the pro place can use, but it's not just regular paint primer. I had it done on my engine mount, but the other stuff is just the color, no primer.

Mike, again, your pedals are awesome looking!

Post by **bullojm1** » Fri May 09, 2008 8:46 pm

cjensen wrote: Mike, again, your pedals are awesome looking!

Thanks Chad! I originally was going for a chrome look, but the PC guy said the chrome finish was CRAP. This was the closest he could find to what I wanted that had good durability.

AntiGravity · Post by **AntiGravity** » Sat May 10, 2008 12:25 am

For my -8 I made some rudder pedal extensions and then had all the parts anodised blue before I rivetted them together. I'm pleased with how they came out and just wonder how the anodising will last. I've had anodised footpegs on motorcycles before and they've lasted ok, so I'm pretty hopeful.

Pic from my kitlog here...
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/worklog_i ... o_number=1

RV9inIowa · Post by **RV9inIowa** » Sat May 10, 2008 6:50 am

I need to buy the springs / bushings / collar for my brake master cylinders. I'm putting in an order from McMaster Carr. The parts look very cheap:
Springs are about 50 cents each
Collars are $1.62 each
Bushings are about 50 cents each.

That makes each "side" of the plane about $5 plus shipping from McMaster.

I want to place the order on Monday, so if anyone wants some parts let me know. I'll charge you my cost for the parts, your portion of McMaster's shipping (half if only one person joins, a third if 2 join, etc) and USPS priority mail (about $4) from my house to yours.

Any takers?

weezbad · Post by **weezbad** » Sat May 10, 2008 7:57 am

i'll take one set for a 7 (no co pilots brakes here)...also i used one long bolt for my pivot bolt...but those little turds are expensive. like 9 bucks apiece or something crazy like that.

JohnR · Post by **JohnR** » Sun May 11, 2008 12:41 pm

Dave, I'll take two sets. Check your email.

RV9inIowa · Post by **RV9inIowa** » Mon May 12, 2008 6:53 am

OK - we're up to a grand total of 3 people who want spring sets for their brake master cylinders. Any more takers? I'll put the order in late Monday PM.

tmbg · Post by **tmbg** » Mon May 12, 2008 11:05 am

two sets for me!

RV7Factory · Post by **RV7Factory** » Mon May 12, 2008 6:34 pm

It's Monday PM, am I too late? If not, I'll take a two sets.

RV9inIowa · Post by **RV9inIowa** » Mon May 12, 2008 8:38 pm

OK - I ordered 8 sets:
1 for me
1 for weezbad
2 for JohnR
2 for tmbg
2 for RV7factory.

We'll split up the McMaster Carr shipping 5 ways and I'll find the cheapest way to ship your stuff to you guys.

Thanks!

RV7Factory · Post by **RV7Factory** » Mon May 12, 2008 10:14 pm

Thanks for putting this together Dave!

weezbad · Post by **weezbad** » Tue May 13, 2008 11:32 am

let me know. thanks for the help.

BrickPilot · Post by **BrickPilot** » Tue May 13, 2008 2:23 pm

Right. Rule of thumb... if the bolt rotates or the thing touching the bolt rotates, then you need to use a drilled shank bolt, castle nut, and cotter pin.

RV9inIowa · Post by **RV9inIowa** » Thu May 22, 2008 6:56 pm

I have the goods.... I'll get them together this weekend. PM me with your shipping address and I'll figure out the shipping costs!

Here is a pic - note that these are my "special" bushings which are black MDS filled nylon Yours are regular white nylon. I tweaked the springs to ride up over the bushngs.

RivetBangers.com

Brake pedal return springs

tension

smooth

question for the powdercoat master

Anodising

OK - I'm doing a quick "group buy" on these

any more takers for sping sets?

spring sets on the way

Spring Kits are in!