RivetBangers.com

Dang -

It's amazing what can be done in 2 days with a little help.
Dad came down for Golden West - and I wisked him away afterwards to help me with my fuel tanks.
I decided to take the whole week off to play (err.. I mean to build).
Progress pics below.....

Day 1 - AM (starting off slow... cleaned & scuffed the joint areas)



Day 1 - AM (gooping the stiffners - & BTW back riveting rocks!!)


Day 1 - PM (yippee - those Delux fuel caps are gonna look real nice!!)


Day 2 - late AM (Close up of the drain - but notice that the end rib is riveted in place!)


Day 2 - early PM (lotsa goop going on here!!)


Day 2 - PM (Tada!!! Tomorrow we start with the ribs on tank #2...)


Day 3 -> ??

Watch out Chad... I'm catching up.....

Lorin D
9A Wings (Tanks.. 'n pro-seal aka "Black death")
N194LD reserved

Excellent!

Lookin' GREAT Lorin!! If you keep working like that this week, you will catch and pass me! I can't work on the airplane at all the rest of the week. I have something going on every evening the rest of the week, and I'll be at our chapter summer fly in all day Saturday. No building until at least Sunday, and that's Father's Day...

Here's a couple pics of where I'm at. All the ribs are riveted, but I haven't done the fillet seal, or capped the shop heads yet.

Wow guys! Those look great! I'm getting there slowly.

Chad, I hope you provide us with a report when you get your 100% clecoed tanks finalized. Let us know as to the fit and if you are happy with the procedure.

Well, I can give you a report right now since all the ribs have been riveted in place. I had trouble with ONE rivet not setting in the hole nice and straight. Since it was only 24 hours since I clecod the ribs in, it was still tacky, and I could slightly move the hole with an awl enough to get it to drop right in. All of them went in wet with a toothpick being used to dab each dimple with sealant, and I used two rags per tank while working, and one per tank to clean up. That's half as many rags as I used on the first and only rib I did using the standard method! I'd say at this point that I am very satisfied with the results and cleanliness of this method. I still have a little bit of sealing to do (see above), but the hard part is over, and all the rivets turned out great! The shop heads were much easier to set since there is much less goop all over them. There is still some there, but it's easy to wipe off, and get a good clean set with the bar. The sealant does squeeze out of the rib to skin joints when clecod with the little nut putting a little more pressure on them, and even more so when riveting, even after a day or two of curing.





I would recommend it at this point to anyone, but they have yet to be leak tested.

Oh, one more thing...the only time I put gloves on, was when cleaning up with MEK. If you're conscious and careful about where you set the sealant, toothpicks, and popsickle sticks, it isn't really all that messy. I did get a couple of dabs on my hands here and there, but if you know it right away, it wipes right of with a little alcohol.

Wow Chad... that is awesome!

Sounds like you are having a great time!!!

CJ

Chad,

Did you grab the rivets with your fingers ? Maybe I'm a little over cautious, but couldn't the oils from your hands/fingers get on the rivets when you handle them without gloves and possibly prevent the proseal from sticking to them ?

Also, you did remember to wash the rivets prior to using them right ?

Chad -

Great looking tanks!!!

As you can tell - I went "old school".

2 boxes of gloves - $15.00
1 1/2 gallons Acetone - $25.00
1 now unusable pair of jeans - $15.00 (Target)
getting the ribs in and done - PRICELESS!!

We've got the bulkhead fittings, fuel sender connector, and cover plates assembed and sealed...

Next it's working on the vent line... and finally sealing up the rear baffle.





Lorin D
9A Wings

Wicked Stick wrote:Chad,

Did you grab the rivets with your fingers ? Maybe I'm a little over cautious, but couldn't the oils from your hands/fingers get on the rivets when you handle them without gloves and possibly prevent the proseal from sticking to them ?

I did, but was very careful to grab them with a light touch, and only around the "rim" of the machined head. They were dropped in, and pushed in place with an awl. They were all soaked in MEK prior to installing them. I suppose that the oils from your fingers could prevent some sticking, but with my fingertips swathed in alcohol to dry them as much as possible, and the very minimal area under the rivet head touched, I'm not worried about it. The machined heads will also be sealed off from two other places as well (fillet seals, and covered shop heads).

I tried grabbing them with gloves on in the beginning, and it took too long to get a hold of them, and I became rather , so I used alcohol on my fingertips. Good ? We'll see...

Lorin, sounds like you'll be finished real soon! That's great, and everything is looking awesome! I haven't installed my vent line yet either, and just got to thinking about that the other day. I suppose that since the tubing is soft, it will be fairly easy to manuever in to the holes and position. Is this your thinking as well?

You guys just keep posting photos and comments about what your doing. I'm just far enough behid that they are very helpful.

Ok -
Since you asked... (and sorry for the long post...)

Chad - the vent lines were no sweat. I straightened out the tubing by hand, and then cut the pieces a little long on purpose (~ 62" for the 9A). Next I dry fit it in place, and then decided to trim ~ 3 1/2" off it. This was perfect
Remember to flare the end that attaches to the bulkhead fitting (standard 37 deg flare). Use lots of oil when flaring. (BTW - Thanks to Brian D. for lending me is flaring tool!!!)

I'm using the capacitance fuel senders since I like the idea of no moving parts and no possibility of a leaky/sinking "float". Here's the final installation and a couple of close-ups.







Making a notch for the wire in each of the bushings along the vent tube was a little challenging - but what eventually worked the best was putting a small round hobby file in the drill press and then applying a little pressure.

As I said before - I'm using Van's method for applying the ProSeal.. it is MESSY - but does clean up okay.


And finally - both tanks done after a 3-day marathon - Thanks Dad for your help - I couldn't have done it without you!!


Here's a hint for those who are about to start. I built 2 sets of cradles - 1 is screwed to the workbench. It's excellent for riveting or anyting that takes a little "push". The second set are free standing and can be turned either way. In a couple of pic's you'll see a rough "L shape" hunk of plywood clamped to these cradles. This was an easy way to make sure the tanks don't slip out. I can't tell you how great it was to have each of these "jigs".

Lorin D
9A Wings

Lorin, before you close up the works...

You may as well doop up those AN fittings now, as they will be not as east to get at ever again!

CJ

Now that is what I'm talking about! Thanks Lorin!

It sure is nice that your Dad and you could hammer this out. My Dad has passed on but he would have loved this whole project.

Thanks Lorin, that's what I wanted to hear! Great job you and your dad did!

CJ -
Good point.. but too late.
Plates are on and the gaskets well gooped with compound
I thought the purpose of the flared AN fittings were that they don't leak.
They are cinched down pretty tight.

Chad -
Thanks.. Dad was a great help!!
Too bad he left for back home today (I could have used him with the wing skins)

JohnR -
Glad to help.
That's why we're here!!


BTW - we did incorporate Van's pick-up tube Service bulletin:



Lorin D
9A (tanks done!! ... for now)
N194LD reserved