Wing kit questions......

1:1_Scale · Post by **1:1_Scale** » Sat Nov 10, 2007 1:48 am

I've got two questions:
1) Capacitive or float fuel sending units? I like the idea of the capacitive units, but I'm not edumacated enough to know if they will really limit (how much) my fuel gauge choices.
2) I should know the answer to this, but it's late and I'm too lazy to look- if it takes them 8 weeks to fill the order, when do they charge your card?

Thanks!

Brantel · Post by **Brantel** » Sat Nov 10, 2007 7:46 am

Now a days the capacitive probes have lots of options. In the past only a few supported them. Dynon has some great little capacitive converters that work really well and they are only around $50 bucks each.

They will charge your card about a week before shipment for final payment. The deposit comes out at time they enter the order. Shipping is payed by you at delivery.

painless · Post by **painless** » Sat Nov 10, 2007 11:23 am

Kelly:

I highly recommend the capacitance senders. I have them in my 6A with an EI FL2C fuel guage. I continue to be amazed at how accurate they are. Each time I have gone to the pump, what the gauge says I need for full tanks and what is actually pumped is spot on. Mind you I still keep and eye on time/confirmed fuel on board, but this sender/guage combo is making me a believer.

Regards,

lancef53 · Post by **lancef53** » Sat Nov 10, 2007 2:25 pm

What type of sending units does the Dynon Flightdek 180 need to have? I have a set of float type that Vans sells, (came with the wing kit I bought from another builder) but was wondering if I need the capacitance type? I can't find the info on Dynon's site. Thanks

Brantel · Post by **Brantel** » Sat Nov 10, 2007 2:44 pm

lancef53 wrote:What type of sending units does the Dynon Flightdek 180 need to have? I have a set of float type that Vans sells, (came with the wing kit I bought from another builder) but was wondering if I need the capacitance type? I can't find the info on Dynon's site. Thanks

They will work just fine. The capacitive ones require a capacitive to voltage converter. The floats will connect direct to the 180.

Lorin Dueck · Post by **Lorin Dueck** » Sat Nov 10, 2007 4:28 pm

I thought about it for awhile too - and decided to use the capacitance senders because of their accuracy and NO MOVING PARTS.
Simpler is better in my mind.
Besides, the directions were clear and they were easy to install.
No regrets so far...

Lorin D
9A Wings
N194LD reserved

1:1_Scale · Post by **1:1_Scale** » Sun Nov 11, 2007 12:18 pm

Perfect, thanks! Lorin, I'm with you with NO MOVING PARTS, seems like a no-brainer now

svanarts · Post by **svanarts** » Sun Nov 11, 2007 9:28 pm

I bought the floats but wish I hadn't now. That's a great point about no moving parts. I imaging the tank penetration for the capacitive senders are smaller than for the floats too?

I may be putting my floats up for sale in the advertising section.

captain_john · Post by **captain_john** » Mon Nov 12, 2007 6:08 am

Scott, I have the caps. Really, it is what it is. If you have the floats, use the floats.

Data is data. You look in the tanks before you fly and the fuel transducer does the math. A real no brainer!

Six of one, half a dozen of the other.

Either way, I think.

CJ

smithhb · Post by **smithhb** » Mon Nov 12, 2007 8:37 am

If you are interested, here is my detail on installing my cap senders as well as vapor return lines.
http://www.flightinnovations.com/wings2 ... stallation

svanarts · Post by **svanarts** » Mon Nov 12, 2007 4:12 pm

captain_john wrote:Scott, I have the caps. Really, it is what it is. If you have the floats, use the floats.
...
Six of one, half a dozen of the other.

CJ

Dunno about that. I look at the one single wire penetration coming out of Bret's tanks. Then I look at the screws and gaskets holding my floats in my RV-4... I... like the single wire penetration better. I like less moving parts. And I like what I'm hearing about the accuracy. Though I have always flown by timing my tanks rather than looking at the gauges. (Which don't work worth a dang anyway.)

painless · Post by **painless** » Mon Nov 12, 2007 8:58 pm

Scott:

I agree with you to never trust a fuel gauge, but my capacitance setup is really proving itself to me. All that has been said about no moving parts is another big plus, as well as one little penetration for a BNC connector. If (ahw heck....who am I kidding...WHEN) I build another airplane, I will use capacitance senders again.

I will admit, tho, that one little connector was the only place where one of my tanks didn't pass the leak test.

Fix was to gob more proseal on the wire connected to the center post from inside the tank.

1:1_Scale · Post by **1:1_Scale** » Tue Nov 13, 2007 11:22 am

Does anyone have any concerns with the wire insulation deteriorating and cracking over time due to contact with gas or uh.. Jet A?

Post by **bullojm1** » Tue Nov 13, 2007 11:49 am

1:1_Scale wrote:Does anyone have any concerns with the wire insulation deteriorating and cracking over time due to contact with gas or uh.. Jet A?

There are a couple of RV's out there with 1,000's of hours over a few years with their capacitive sensors still in tact. The Tefzel insulation is known for its superior resistance to chemicals. If years down the road something does happen, you can always put in the float sensors relatively easily.

RivetBangers.com

Wing kit questions......

Wing kit questions......

Cap senders