Brake pedal return springs
Brake pedal return springs
I bought these springs with a small group of us local builders last fall, and I finally got around to installing them. Rob Johnson headed this up for us, and he is getting the part numbers together for me, so he may post them here as well.
I'll post the part number for those of you that have asked me if Rob doesn't do it first. They came from McMaster Carr, and were $5 for one pair.
They work great, and are easily adjusted with a set screw. Pretty slick!
I'll post the part number for those of you that have asked me if Rob doesn't do it first. They came from McMaster Carr, and were $5 for one pair.
They work great, and are easily adjusted with a set screw. Pretty slick!
I highly recommed installing these. I was dragging my right brake slightly for quite some time until I installed mine. Master cylinder was not releasing pressure via its internal spring.
My setup was purchased from the aviation aisle at my local hardware store. Same "wheel collar" (that is from my RC days), and springs. I just have a large washer at the base of the spring.
Regards,
My setup was purchased from the aviation aisle at my local hardware store. Same "wheel collar" (that is from my RC days), and springs. I just have a large washer at the base of the spring.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A N782P
Hatz Classic, Welding fuselage
Hatz build log. https://eaabuilderslog.org/?blproject&p ... GNCwv&sid=
Peshtigo, WI
RV6A N782P
Hatz Classic, Welding fuselage
Hatz build log. https://eaabuilderslog.org/?blproject&p ... GNCwv&sid=
Peshtigo, WI
Part numbers
I found the parts list, so I figured I would kill two birds with one cluster of packets (the techies will get that one) --
These are the McMaster part numbers
6389K625 NYLON BEARING, FLANGED, FOR 3/8" SHAFT DIA, 1/2" OD, 3/8" LENGTH
9657K115 STEEL COMPRESSION SPRING, ZNC-PLTD SPRING-TEMPERED, 3" L, 1/2" OD, .047" DIA
9946K13 ALUMINUM SET SCREW SHAFT COLLAR, 3/8" BORE, 3/4" OUTSIDE DIAMETER, 3/8" WIDTH
Cheap insurance to help prevent a stuck pedal. I found these parts on the other board, and then got Chad and Terry W. to get in on this. With 3 of us together, it knocked the price down to around $5 a set.
These are the McMaster part numbers
6389K625 NYLON BEARING, FLANGED, FOR 3/8" SHAFT DIA, 1/2" OD, 3/8" LENGTH
9657K115 STEEL COMPRESSION SPRING, ZNC-PLTD SPRING-TEMPERED, 3" L, 1/2" OD, .047" DIA
9946K13 ALUMINUM SET SCREW SHAFT COLLAR, 3/8" BORE, 3/4" OUTSIDE DIAMETER, 3/8" WIDTH
Cheap insurance to help prevent a stuck pedal. I found these parts on the other board, and then got Chad and Terry W. to get in on this. With 3 of us together, it knocked the price down to around $5 a set.
Rob Johnson
RV-7 - built, had a lot of fun, sold
1945 Piper J3 Cub
Pitts Model 12 Plans on the way....
RV-7 - built, had a lot of fun, sold
1945 Piper J3 Cub
Pitts Model 12 Plans on the way....
i would like some but i must admit i wonder about them scuffing the shaft and causing leakage over time. or is the shaft not sealed there and simply attached to a piston of larger diameter than the shaft and no need for more than a dust seal and not really a dynamic seal.
william....don't let it beat you down, you are stronger than you think.
I would be really easy to put a slight ravit on that plastic bushing to have it fit inside the first turn or too of the spring. That way the spring would never touch the sensitive area of the shaft.weezbad wrote:i would like some but i must admit i wonder about them scuffing the shaft and causing leakage over time. or is the shaft not sealed there and simply attached to a piston of larger diameter than the shaft and no need for more than a dust seal and not really a dynamic seal.
Brantel (Brian Chesteen),
RV12-IS, #121606, N912BC - Building Now!
RV10, #41942, N????? - Project Sold
RV-7/TU, #72823, N159SB - SOLD
RV12-IS, #121606, N912BC - Building Now!
RV10, #41942, N????? - Project Sold
RV-7/TU, #72823, N159SB - SOLD
Great idea! I'm going to file this one away for later use.Brantel wrote:[I would be really easy to put a slight ravit on that plastic bushing to have it fit inside the first turn or too of the spring. That way the spring would never touch the sensitive area of the shaft.
JohnR
RV-7A - Fuselage - SOLD, just not supposed to be
Numbers 6:24 - The LORD bless thee, and keep thee
RV-7A - Fuselage - SOLD, just not supposed to be
Numbers 6:24 - The LORD bless thee, and keep thee
- aparchment
- Class C
- Posts: 522
- Joined: Tue Nov 15, 2005 9:43 pm
Nice
Hey Chad:
Thanks for that idea. I will add that to my brake pedals (just finished last weekend).
I was wondering why you used the anodized 90 degree aluminum fittings for the hose to cylinder connections rather than the brass. Is it because you needed a flair connection with the braided hoses? Also, what lengths of hoses did you use and where did you get them? Bonaco Performance?
Antony
Thanks for that idea. I will add that to my brake pedals (just finished last weekend).
I was wondering why you used the anodized 90 degree aluminum fittings for the hose to cylinder connections rather than the brass. Is it because you needed a flair connection with the braided hoses? Also, what lengths of hoses did you use and where did you get them? Bonaco Performance?
Antony
Hey Antony,
Not my idea...I just posted it. Rob Johnson came up with this one for us local guys...
Yep, the flared fittings are needed for the braided lines. They are from Bonaco, and they now have an "RV kit" put together. I pieced mine together before they made the kit, but it's available now. The lengths are two 36" and two 24" lines per side.
Not my idea...I just posted it. Rob Johnson came up with this one for us local guys...
Yep, the flared fittings are needed for the braided lines. They are from Bonaco, and they now have an "RV kit" put together. I pieced mine together before they made the kit, but it's available now. The lengths are two 36" and two 24" lines per side.
- captain_john
- Sparky
- Posts: 5880
- Joined: Sun Oct 31, 2004 9:17 am
- Location: KPYM
So are the braided brake lines really needed? Most of the RV's I've been in I thought just had the standard Van's issue plastic, I need to look closer I guess. I don't want to have problems with brake lines and if the stock ones are causing issues I'll order up a set. On the other hand if they are okay I can might as well use them. Thoughts?
JohnR
RV-7A - Fuselage - SOLD, just not supposed to be
Numbers 6:24 - The LORD bless thee, and keep thee
RV-7A - Fuselage - SOLD, just not supposed to be
Numbers 6:24 - The LORD bless thee, and keep thee
John,
I bought the braided lines from Bonaco about three months ago after watching two fellow RV owners fight to stop brake line leaks in the Vans' stock Parker-Hannifin brake lines and brass fittings. It appears to be pretty common for the lines to leak fluid at the fittings after a few hours of use.
If you don't mind brake fluid on your carpet or spending hours on your back under the panel trying to fix the leaks, use the stock lines and fittings.
Just my 2 cents.
I bought the braided lines from Bonaco about three months ago after watching two fellow RV owners fight to stop brake line leaks in the Vans' stock Parker-Hannifin brake lines and brass fittings. It appears to be pretty common for the lines to leak fluid at the fittings after a few hours of use.
If you don't mind brake fluid on your carpet or spending hours on your back under the panel trying to fix the leaks, use the stock lines and fittings.
Just my 2 cents.
Bret Smith
9A Flying (N16BL)
Blue Ridge, GA
http://www.FlightInnovations.com
APRS Tracking: http://www.flightinnovations.com/tracking.html
9A Flying (N16BL)
Blue Ridge, GA
http://www.FlightInnovations.com
APRS Tracking: http://www.flightinnovations.com/tracking.html
John:
I have the standard Van's issued brake lines in my 6A. Not a drop of brake fluid. I did , however, replace the fittings supplied by Van's for the plastic reservoir lines. Mine were plastic ones like what is connected to the reservoir. I used nice brass ones a friend got me at each brake cylinder, and they work great.
You really don't need the return lines from the resevoir to be braided, as these are not pressurized.
I have the standard Van's issued brake lines in my 6A. Not a drop of brake fluid. I did , however, replace the fittings supplied by Van's for the plastic reservoir lines. Mine were plastic ones like what is connected to the reservoir. I used nice brass ones a friend got me at each brake cylinder, and they work great.
You really don't need the return lines from the resevoir to be braided, as these are not pressurized.
Jeff Orear
RV6A N782P
Hatz Classic, Welding fuselage
Hatz build log. https://eaabuilderslog.org/?blproject&p ... GNCwv&sid=
Peshtigo, WI
RV6A N782P
Hatz Classic, Welding fuselage
Hatz build log. https://eaabuilderslog.org/?blproject&p ... GNCwv&sid=
Peshtigo, WI
- captain_john
- Sparky
- Posts: 5880
- Joined: Sun Oct 31, 2004 9:17 am
- Location: KPYM
Yah, I get that. People either love the plastic ones or hate 'em!
Me? I would rather look at stainless steel ones daily.
They are prolly not needed... but hey, it is why we build our own designs.
CJ
Me? I would rather look at stainless steel ones daily.
They are prolly not needed... but hey, it is why we build our own designs.
CJ
RV-7
Garmin G3X with VP-X & a TMX-IO-360 with G3i
It's all over but the flying! 800+ hours in only 3 years!
Garmin G3X with VP-X & a TMX-IO-360 with G3i
It's all over but the flying! 800+ hours in only 3 years!
- aparchment
- Class C
- Posts: 522
- Joined: Tue Nov 15, 2005 9:43 pm
price?
Thanks for the info Chad.
How much did you guys pay for the Bonaco parts?
Antony
How much did you guys pay for the Bonaco parts?
Antony
- aparchment
- Class C
- Posts: 522
- Joined: Tue Nov 15, 2005 9:43 pm
more brake spring questions
So guys:
I installed the springs etc. on the cylinders, and I notice that they interfere with the full length of travel of the cylinder. I don't know yet how much travel is needed, but this left me a little concerned.
Also, my brake pedals are really stiff once all of the bolts are torqued to their proper values. It would seem that they should be a little easier to pivot. The rudder pedal motion is nice and smooth, but not the brakes. What have others done?
Antony
I installed the springs etc. on the cylinders, and I notice that they interfere with the full length of travel of the cylinder. I don't know yet how much travel is needed, but this left me a little concerned.
Also, my brake pedals are really stiff once all of the bolts are torqued to their proper values. It would seem that they should be a little easier to pivot. The rudder pedal motion is nice and smooth, but not the brakes. What have others done?
Antony
Antony...are you using the proper castle nuts for the brake pedal pivot? Those don't get torque'd at all. In fact, I installed mine REALLY loose to make sure I never have a stuck pedal. The springs are overkill if you leave the nuts nice and loose, but I chose both as a "belt and suspenders" approach.
The castle nuts with the cotter pin will never move as long as the pin is in place, no torque needed.
The castle nuts with the cotter pin will never move as long as the pin is in place, no torque needed.