Bushing in Aileron Bellcrank
- Lorin Dueck
- Class D
- Posts: 252
- Joined: Sun Dec 25, 2005 2:12 pm
- Location: San Jose, CA
- Contact:
Bushing in Aileron Bellcrank
Hi all -
I would appreciate a little help / advice here.
For the 9A aileron bellcrank installation - the directions say to ream the WD-421 bushing to accept the AN 4 bolt.
My question is - should I spend the extra $$ and buy a .250 reamer - or just drill it out with a 1/4" bit in my drill press??
What did you do - and how did it work??
Recall that the bellcrank assembly rotates around the bushing - not the bolt....
Thanks, Lorin D
I would appreciate a little help / advice here.
For the 9A aileron bellcrank installation - the directions say to ream the WD-421 bushing to accept the AN 4 bolt.
My question is - should I spend the extra $$ and buy a .250 reamer - or just drill it out with a 1/4" bit in my drill press??
What did you do - and how did it work??
Recall that the bellcrank assembly rotates around the bushing - not the bolt....
Thanks, Lorin D
I'd say get a reamer also. I use them all the time. I have them for #40, #30, #19, #12, 1/4" (Aileron Bushing), 5/16" (Rear wing spar) and 3/8" (engine mount). Check out mscdirect.com - they ship quickly and have great prices.
Mike Bullock
http://www.rvplane.com
RV-7 | Superior IO-360 | Whirlwind 200RV
Garmin GTN650 | GRT Dual Sport SX EFIS
Status: FLYING!
http://www.rvplane.com
RV-7 | Superior IO-360 | Whirlwind 200RV
Garmin GTN650 | GRT Dual Sport SX EFIS
Status: FLYING!
i drilled mine but had to use a dump trucl load of pressure on the bushing to keep it from spinning in the holding fixture( a piece of wood with a hole drilled through it cut in half). a reamer would make this a non event.. you local machione shop should have the popular sizes...fastenal comes to mind.
william....don't let it beat you down, you are stronger than you think.
- Wicked Stick
- Class B
- Posts: 1000
- Joined: Wed Feb 09, 2005 10:00 pm
- Location: KEWB
http://www.micromatic.com/draft-keg-bee ... P-080.html
I guess they even use reamers for draft beer...
Yet another use you can have it for....lol..
Seriously though, I wish I had bought the reamer at that stage in the build. I have them now in the sizes I need for the rest of the plane.
It really is the way to do it.
I guess they even use reamers for draft beer...
Yet another use you can have it for....lol..
Seriously though, I wish I had bought the reamer at that stage in the build. I have them now in the sizes I need for the rest of the plane.
It really is the way to do it.
Dave "WS" Rogers
RV-8 (125 hrs & counting)
N173DR
RV-8 (125 hrs & counting)
N173DR
- Lorin Dueck
- Class D
- Posts: 252
- Joined: Sun Dec 25, 2005 2:12 pm
- Location: San Jose, CA
- Contact:
Used the take a piece of 2x4 drill a hole in it and split it with a band saw to about 1" past the hole method. Then clamped the split end with a c-clamp. This held the bushing just fine. I used the 1/4" drill bit and that worked just fine. I just kept working the bit up and down to clear out the powder.
Brantel (Brian Chesteen),
RV12-IS, #121606, N912BC - Building Now!
RV10, #41942, N????? - Project Sold
RV-7/TU, #72823, N159SB - SOLD
RV12-IS, #121606, N912BC - Building Now!
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- TomNativeNewYorker
- Class D
- Posts: 439
- Joined: Tue Mar 21, 2006 9:19 pm
- Location: KSAV
THAT is a good idea. I ordered two extra bushings with my last order from Van's because I wasn't happy with how the first turned out (irregularities on the inside and overall poor fit of the bolt). I'm not sure why the first one was bad because I did it with a drill press and a reamer, but...Brantel wrote:Used the take a piece of 2x4 drill a hole in it and split it with a band saw to about 1" past the hole method. Then clamped the split end with a c-clamp. This held the bushing just fine. I used the 1/4" drill bit and that worked just fine. I just kept working the bit up and down to clear out the powder.
That seems like a great way to hold it steady and vertical...
Thomas
Thomas Short
Indianapolis, IN (KUMP)
RV-8 wings
Indianapolis, IN (KUMP)
RV-8 wings
- RV7Factory
- Beanpolt
- Posts: 522
- Joined: Fri May 20, 2005 2:28 pm
- Location: Livermore, CA
- Lorin Dueck
- Class D
- Posts: 252
- Joined: Sun Dec 25, 2005 2:12 pm
- Location: San Jose, CA
- Contact:
Well,
I bought several reamers from MSC Direct (Thanks for the reference Mike!).. clamped the parts using the "Brantel method" (great suggestion!)... and completed the setup by following Brads steps (simple & accurate!!).
After adjusting the drill press to the slowest speed - and a using a little boelube... it was a no-brainer. 30 minutes and I was done with both bushings. The fit came out perfect.
I can't believe I was sweating tihs one!!
Thanks to all!!
For those of you who have not gotten here yet - BUY THE REAMERS!!!
Lorin D.
9A Wings
N194LD reserved
I bought several reamers from MSC Direct (Thanks for the reference Mike!).. clamped the parts using the "Brantel method" (great suggestion!)... and completed the setup by following Brads steps (simple & accurate!!).
After adjusting the drill press to the slowest speed - and a using a little boelube... it was a no-brainer. 30 minutes and I was done with both bushings. The fit came out perfect.
I can't believe I was sweating tihs one!!
Thanks to all!!
For those of you who have not gotten here yet - BUY THE REAMERS!!!
Lorin D.
9A Wings
N194LD reserved
Not my method, I think I stole it from Brad so it is the "Brad" method.
Glad it worked out though!
Glad it worked out though!
Lorin Dueck wrote:Well,
I bought several reamers from MSC Direct (Thanks for the reference Mike!).. clamped the parts using the "Brantel method" (great suggestion!)... and completed the setup by following Brads steps (simple & accurate!!).
After adjusting the drill press to the slowest speed - and a using a little boelube... it was a no-brainer. 30 minutes and I was done with both bushings. The fit came out perfect.
I can't believe I was sweating tihs one!!
Thanks to all!!
For those of you who have not gotten here yet - BUY THE REAMERS!!!
Lorin D.
9A Wings
N194LD reserved
Brantel (Brian Chesteen),
RV12-IS, #121606, N912BC - Building Now!
RV10, #41942, N????? - Project Sold
RV-7/TU, #72823, N159SB - SOLD
RV12-IS, #121606, N912BC - Building Now!
RV10, #41942, N????? - Project Sold
RV-7/TU, #72823, N159SB - SOLD
- RV7Factory
- Beanpolt
- Posts: 522
- Joined: Fri May 20, 2005 2:28 pm
- Location: Livermore, CA
oh, i see how its gonna be, you guys have put me on the ignore list or dont want to share any of the moneywith meRV7Factory wrote: Yes, and I want royalties!!!
i used a vise instead of clamps.weezbad wrote:i drilled mine but had to use a dump truck load of pressure on the bushing to keep it from spinning in the holding fixture( a piece of wood with a hole drilled through it cut in half). a reamer would make this a non event.. you local machine shop should have the popular sizes...fastenal comes to mind.
i did however drill the hole parallel to the split in the wood. after reading "brantels method i see he mentioned not cutting the block completely in half. which IMHO would help even more?
i really feel sorry for the people trying to build a plane and dont have internet access. there is so much to be gained from the net its ridiculous.
william....don't let it beat you down, you are stronger than you think.
Mike,I'd say get a reamer also. I use them all the time. I have them for #40, #30, #19, #12, 1/4" (Aileron Bushing), 5/16" (Rear wing spar) and 3/8" (engine mount). Check out mscdirect.com - they ship quickly and have great prices.
Thanks for the link and the tip! I ordered all the reamers you suggested, except for the #30 and #40 (already had those). Great prices, and they arrived here in two days. I'll be using the .250 soon for my aileron bushings!
Bruce
Ok, we are going to have to call it the "bradweezbad" method. Or the "weezbadbrad" method.
You guys can fight over who's name comes first.
You guys can fight over who's name comes first.
weezbad wrote:oh, i see how its gonna be, you guys have put me on the ignore list or dont want to share any of the moneywith meRV7Factory wrote: Yes, and I want royalties!!!i used a vise instead of clamps.weezbad wrote:i drilled mine but had to use a dump truck load of pressure on the bushing to keep it from spinning in the holding fixture( a piece of wood with a hole drilled through it cut in half). a reamer would make this a non event.. you local machine shop should have the popular sizes...fastenal comes to mind.
i did however drill the hole parallel to the split in the wood. after reading "brantels method i see he mentioned not cutting the block completely in half. which IMHO would help even more?
i really feel sorry for the people trying to build a plane and dont have internet access. there is so much to be gained from the net its ridiculous.
Brantel (Brian Chesteen),
RV12-IS, #121606, N912BC - Building Now!
RV10, #41942, N????? - Project Sold
RV-7/TU, #72823, N159SB - SOLD
RV12-IS, #121606, N912BC - Building Now!
RV10, #41942, N????? - Project Sold
RV-7/TU, #72823, N159SB - SOLD