The Big Cut

cnpeters · Post by **cnpeters** » Sat Jun 26, 2010 8:06 pm

Did the Big Cut today on the tip up canopy, and as many have reported, it wasn't bad at all and actually rather mundane. There has been a trend using vibrating saws as of late, and I used a Harbor Freight cheapy that worked well. Little debris, little odor, and very easy to control (I would first score my cut line, then plunge and follow for a full thickness cut. Of course, it is imperative to tape across your cut every 4-6 inches). So, an alternative method for cutting for those who haven't reached this point yet.
And thank you Chad and Mike B for your excellent websites that have provided me considerable guidance!

hydroguy2 · Post by **hydroguy2** » Sat Jun 26, 2010 8:14 pm

good job.

I agree the toughest part of the big cut is making the decision to do it. once you touch the plexi it gets real easy.

Cherokee Driver · Post by **Cherokee Driver** » Sun Jun 27, 2010 8:04 am

This is the first I have heard about using a vibrating saw. I think that is a great idea. I would think it is a lot more controllable. Thanks for the tip.

cjensen · Post by **cjensen** » Sun Jun 27, 2010 9:50 am

Excellent Carl! Looks fantastic! I'm really happy to hear the vibrating saw worked well.

BTW...hope your trip was a blast! Gotta chat soon...

Post by **Spike** » Mon Jun 28, 2010 6:58 am

Sweetness. What do you mean tape over the cut every few inches. I didn't get that.

clreding · Post by **clreding** » Mon Jun 28, 2010 7:41 am

My wife gave me one for Christmas. (I was supposed to fix some tiles in the bathroom). I used it on the fiberglass for the wingtips. Wasn't half as messy as the dremel tool.

cjensen · Post by **cjensen** » Mon Jun 28, 2010 7:44 am

Cut a few inches, then place some duct tape over the cut to keep the weight of the part being cut off the canopy...the rough initial cut *might* be susceptible to cracking. Tho, I did some testing on this, and I could NOT get the waste parts to crack...

That is a rough cut piece that is bent end to end, and I couldn't get it to break or even show signs of a crack. I'm sure if I wasn't trying, it probably would have tho.

Also, notice in that picture the tape...that's what we're talking about here...

Post by **Spike** » Mon Jun 28, 2010 7:49 am

Thanx! Spike

Cherokee Driver · Post by **Cherokee Driver** » Mon Jun 28, 2010 3:29 pm

Not that I am any where near this stage of the game...but I am curious.

Is there a special blade that you guys used with the vibrating saw? I am not too familiar with these tools other than seeing them in the local home depot from time to time. It makes a lot of sense to me to use this than a spinning carbide blade in a die grinder. I have seen photos of guys covered in dust after they cut away with "the wheel." I can envision the spinning blade getting away from me as well. Just looking for info for down the road.

CD

flytoboat · Post by **flytoboat** » Mon Jun 28, 2010 3:32 pm

Carl, Great job! Another milestone completed. Since you're in my neck of the woods now, if you need an extra hand for anything, don't hesitate to call.

cnpeters · Post by **cnpeters** » Tue Jun 29, 2010 12:36 pm

BUT, while I did the same experiment, that same piece you are holding cracked midway through my cut, but fortunately the crack was in the scrap. After scratching my head (I also bent pieces way over like you), I figured the piece was loaded as the canopy sides were splayed significantly wider than the fuse on the bench. I figured that was probably the reason, and made sure thereafter that the canopy was braced to the same width as the fuselage - from then on, I never had a crack appear.

cjensen wrote:Cut a few inches, then place some duct tape over the cut to keep the weight of the part being cut off the canopy...the rough initial cut *might* be susceptible to cracking. Tho, I did some testing on this, and I could NOT get the waste parts to crack...

That is a rough cut piece that is bent end to end, and I couldn't get it to break or even show signs of a crack. I'm sure if I wasn't trying, it probably would have tho.

Also, notice in that picture the tape...that's what we're talking about here...

cnpeters · Post by **cnpeters** » Tue Jun 29, 2010 12:39 pm

The ones I've seen come with the blade as one of the attachments. It may be fully circular, or a partial disc; all with tiny teeth. As the to and fro movement is so small, it won't cut soft materials well. When I used to cut casts off of scared children, I would hold the vibrating blade to my palm to show that it won't cut skin.

Cherokee Driver wrote:Not that I am any where near this stage of the game...but I am curious.

Is there a special blade that you guys used with the vibrating saw? I am not too familiar with these tools other than seeing them in the local home depot from time to time. It makes a lot of sense to me to use this than a spinning carbide blade in a die grinder. I have seen photos of guys covered in dust after they cut away with "the wheel." I can envision the spinning blade getting away from me as well. Just looking for info for down the road.

CD