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I found a 1900hr running C1C angle valve for a reasonable price, and I'm gonna try to go look at it this weekend. If it looks as good in person as at sounds over the phone, I may just buy it!


If anyone has any groundbreaking reasons why I shouldn't use that engine, I'd like to hear them now! I know it's a rear sump; I have the machining capability to fix that.

Does anyone know what engine mount it uses?

I think its a dynafocal. Check for oil gear AD compliance.

Spike

not sure which AD you're referring to... here's the current list for that engine:

2011-15-10 08/16/2011 Fuel servos
2009-02-03 02/09/2009 Fuel injection servos
2008-14-07 08/14/2008 Externally mounted fuel injector fuel lines
2006-06-16 04/27/2006 Crankshaft
2004-10-14 06/25/2004 Crankshaft gear
2003-14-03 08/14/2003 Rotary fuel pumps
98-17-11 10/19/1998 Crankshafts
98-02-08 03/30/1998 Crankshaft
96-23-03 12/17/1996 High pressure fuel pumps
96-09-10 07/15/1996 Oil pump
95-26-02 01/24/1996 Aviation Gasoline
75-09-15 04/30/1975 Fuel Starvation To The Engine
75-08-09 08/18/1977 Oil Pump Drive Shaft
73-23-01 01/13/1977 Piston Pin Assembly
73-10-02 05/16/1973 Bendix Fuel Injectors
71-11-02 03/14/1972 Intake and Exhaust Hydraulic Tappet Plunger Assembly
71-05-02 02/13/1973 Crankcase Main Bearings
66-20-04 08/27/1966 Oil Filter Adapter Gasket

I'll prolly print them all out and take them with me to look at it. It's on a flying airplane at the moment, and comes with logs, so it should be pretty easy to verify the ADs

96-01-10
75-08-09

Spicer

How are the machined surfaces of the crank and journals?

What is the history there? Are they already oversize?

When I was looking at secondhand engines, that was usually the deal breaker for me.

What prop are you planning on using?

CJ

It's on a repo'd Arrow, which is due to be flown in to the seller's shop tomorrow. He knows as little as I do until that happens... all I know is there are complete logs and it's running and flying with 1900hrs. I'll drag dan down there with me and we'll go over it pretty well.


I'm currently whiskeyvictoring between a hartzell and the whirlwind 200RV. $2k premium on the WW, but it's oh-so-sexy

I have lots of saddle time behind those engines. You would have some sump work to do. Perhaps a Superior Cold Air would be your best choice?

I was asking about props because of the RPM restriction on the Hartzell. It is just wrong in my mind to build a plane with a placard like that. I know that it's perfectly fine but... ya know.

In which case the WW could become more attractive!

Look at the history and make a call on the bearings. The way I see it is there better be a good discount if the engine is a last run case!

If it goes to hell in a hand basket at low hours for whatever reason and needs machining past acceptable tolerances; MOORING BLOCK!

Good luck!!!

CJ

the WW has a couple of "avoid" ranges too... offhand, I think it's "avoid continuous operation between 2600-2700 and 2050-2300rpm".

I don't know what the restrictions are on the hartzell.


I'm not concerned about the sump work. Worst case, $1000-1500 buys me a superior sump or an A1A sump and a set of induction tubes. However, all signs point to a competent machinist being able to machine a new servo flange on the front boss and make a block off plate for the rear flange. Now where on earth am I going to find a competent machinist?


I'm hoping it's a first run case, but I won't know for sure until they get the plane in.

OH! I wasn't aware of the restrictions on the WW!

In that case I would certainly pocket the 2 large and gain the 17 lbs of the metal prop!

Hell, I am!

...and as far as changing the sump goes, they make them the way you need one. I think buying one is better than making one on your own.

My two...

CJ

The way I see it, c1c sumps are a dime a dozen, while a1a sumps are like unicorns. The c1c sump won't be worth much or easy to unload if I buy the correct one. With that, I figure I can take a stab at cutting up my aft sump, and if it doesn't work out and I have to buy a forward sump anyway, all I am out is my time.

I looked at a C1C that had a converted sump.

Check with Vetterman on the exhaust....seems like there was an issue, but it was a long time ago, I might be confused

I've read that there are some issues with crossover exhausts, but straight exhausts work ok. I'm not super concerned about exhaust either, because again worst case is that I just buy a fwd sump, and also I can fab an exhaust if necessary.

captain_john wrote:OH! I wasn't aware of the restrictions on the WW!

In that case I would certainly pocket the 2 large and gain the 17 lbs of the metal prop!

Hell, I am!

...and as far as changing the sump goes, they make them the way you need one. I think buying one is better than making one on your own.

My two...

CJ

Having just read Kevin Horton's horror story about unporting his oil pickup and having his prop run away to 4000rpm (!!!), I started looking into counterweighted props. The WW 200C prop is almost as sexy as the 200RV, costs $9970 (yeah, most expensive of the lot thus far), is counterweighted (aerobatic), and has zero speed restrictions...

Well, I looked it over yesterday, and I'm buying it. Working out the logistics of transport and cash and such now, but hopefully will have it by the weekend.

It's a second run case, but not machined oversize. Compressions are all 77+, chrome cylinders are in good shape (scoped them). Will come with the ring gear and all accessories except the alternator.

I'm assuming that the rear-mount governor will be ok on the 7? I'm pretty sure that there are RVers using the C1C model engines (with the modified sump of course), so hopefully that's not a problem

Rear mount guvs are typical.

How much was it?

CJ

$6500

Cool, sounds like the right price.

Good luck with it!

CJ

It's on the truck! I'll get it tonight