Tanksgiving

bmurrish · Post by **bmurrish** » Thu Nov 24, 2005 6:50 pm

Sorry for the Subject title, but I couldn't resist. Guess I have been reading too many of CJ's posts.

Well I finally got up the nerve to start prosealing the tanks. I almost finished all the tank stiffeners, but the batch of proseal ran out. I'll hit the rest along with the fuel drain and filler neck on my next run. Prosealing really isn't that bad once you get started. I probably won't being saying that if they end up leaking.

4kilo · Post by **4kilo** » Thu Nov 24, 2005 11:22 pm

Bill,

Those look nearly identical to mine at the same stage.

I also found the pro-sealing to be less nasty than I had expected from the various horror stories. EXCEPT: I HATE cleaning the clecoes!

Pat

bmurrish · Post by **bmurrish** » Thu Nov 24, 2005 11:30 pm

When I did the first one on the bottom left I applied the proseal to the skin and stuck the stiffener on. It was a mess. I quickly learned to apply it to the bottom of the stiffener instead then press it down on the skin over the rivets. Can't really tell by the picture but there is a nice bead of proseal around the edges of the stiffener. Went back and gooped it over the rivet heads. I think the worst part was dipping the rivets in proseal and putting them in the holes. MEK cleaned the outside skin up nicely

captain_john · Post by **captain_john** » Fri Nov 25, 2005 12:10 am

Glad to see that I am affecting you!

I currently have some cleco's in need of cleaning too! They are soaking in a bath of Coleman Fuel as I type this! I like the Coleman Fuel as it is less odorous. I also use MEK, but save it for the more aggressive cleaning tasks.

Bill, when backriveting the stiffeners on you don't need to doop up the rivet hole with PS. Inserting the rivets, taping them on, buttering up the stiffener and hammering them on is fine. When you peel off the rivet tape, you will see that the PS is oozing from the factory head and around the rivet quite nicely.

Hope this helps!

Nice work BTW! I see that you are using electrical tape to keep the rib line clean of errant PS! Niiiiice!

CJ

bmurrish · Post by **bmurrish** » Fri Nov 25, 2005 11:07 am

[quote="Captain_John] you don't need to doop up the rivet hole with PS. Inserting the rivets, taping them on, buttering up the stiffener and hammering them on is fine. [/quote]

John, are you saying that I don't need to dip the tips of the rivets in proseal? I didn't think they would need it, but the instructions tell you to do it.

captain_john · Post by **captain_john** » Fri Nov 25, 2005 12:03 pm

Yep... or at least I didn't when there was sufficient proseal in the hole.

Sometimes there is too much PS. That is a relative term, really. I consider it to be "enuff" when, after the rivet is driven (backriveted in theis case) there is a ring of PS that needs to be wiped away from the top of the rivet and skin.

To me, that is complete saturation.

BTW, it seems that my Dyslexia is showing itself when coming to transpose the left wing on the plans to a right tank!

I didn't make any boo boo's, but MY BRAIN HURTS!!!

I am going to the health club now to think about the vent, vapor return, deburring and dimpling process!

My drain, filler neck, capacitors, stiffeners and pick up tube are all ready to ROCK!

Pretty soon I will be back in PRO SEAL CITY! Woo HOOOO!

:goodevil:

CJ

bmurrish · Post by **bmurrish** » Fri Nov 25, 2005 3:14 pm

I just finished session 2. This go was much smoother. I followed CJ's advice and just stuck the rivets in the holes and taped over them. Buttered up the stiffeners and hammered them on. He is right, the stuff still oozes out around the rivet head. I hit the filler neck, drain plug, and tooling hole on the outboard rib.

How long do you let the proseal cure before you started on the ribs?

captain_john · Post by **captain_john** » Fri Nov 25, 2005 3:29 pm

Well, I had to wait at least a few days between sessions as I was at the mercy of Wicked Stick's and my own schedule. I consider ribs to be a two person job. The nose rivets are very hard to do alone with any amount of accuracy.

I am glad it worked out well for you, Bill!

Now that I am back from the health club, I won't be able to work on the tank. My wife has an aunt who is being inducted into some local hall of fame for some stupid ball sport!

DAMMIT ALL these family commitments!

Why can't I be a hermit!?!

CJ

captain_john · Post by **captain_john** » Sun Nov 27, 2005 8:26 pm

Got some right tank prep done this weekend!

One thing that I was talking to Thermos about this past weekend while setting up his jig was the little flanges on the nose of the tank and leading edge ribs.

When you get them from Van, they have a considerable lip extending from the gap between the "flange-ettes". I chose to take the roloc wheel to them and shave them off. Now that I am on my last set of ribs, I have a method that I like.

As shown above, I radius the spot between the web and flange that grows thin with the roloc pad. Honestly, even if this were not done I believe it wouldn't crack beyond the next rivet. But as I have mentioned many times before, I am an idiot!

On another note, I got lots done tonight. I deburred and dimpled the right tank skin, ribs and stiffeners!

This week I hope to do the stiffeners and filler neck.

I dunno when I will test my left tank. Mebbe I am scared to discover a leak!!!

Naw, we don't got no stinkin' LEAKS!!!

CJ

bmurrish · Post by **bmurrish** » Sun Nov 27, 2005 10:31 pm

Hey CJ, I ended up doing the same thing to all of my ribs (tanks and outboard leading edge assembly). I noticed there was a little point on the leading edge and tank skins, all in the same spot. It turned out it was from that one point on the "flange-ettes". Of course I noticed this after the outboard leading edge ribs were already primed. Needless to say I reshot the tips this weekend.

captain_john · Post by **captain_john** » Mon Nov 28, 2005 8:53 pm

COOL, Bill!

Hey, here is what they look like when they are oozin' and a'flowin' with the juices!

That is a quote from my old High School English teacher that I just can't let go of. He was as whacky a teacher as ME!

Look inside:

How's it look from 2,000 miles away?

CJ

Womack2005 · Post by **Womack2005** » Tue Nov 29, 2005 2:53 pm

When I was looking at a 7 at Oshvegas this summer I noticed a bump/crease in the leading edge at every rib in that exact location. I had been woundering about that for a while now. Right on

greylingr · Post by **greylingr** » Wed Nov 30, 2005 1:17 am

Hi Guys,

got invited over here by Captain John.

I too need to do start the tanks in the next 2 weeks.

First time building,

so keep the information flowing, I am learning a lot.

Kind Regards
Rudi

greylingr · Post by **greylingr** » Wed Nov 30, 2005 1:19 am

When applying PS to the stiffeners to you smear it over the entire flat bottom surface, like you would butter a sandwich?

Post by **Spike** » Wed Nov 30, 2005 7:25 am

It appears that this is the way they are doing it. Its probably easier than trying to do it in spots. CJ?

And welcome to the group. Have fun and bring some more people!

cjensen · Post by **cjensen** » Wed Nov 30, 2005 9:55 am

rudi!!

captain_john · Post by **captain_john** » Wed Nov 30, 2005 4:43 pm

greylingr wrote:When applying PS to the stiffeners to you smear it over the entire flat bottom surface, like you would butter a sandwich?

Egg zactly, Rudi! Just butter 'em up and wiggle them down onto the rivets to work the thixotropic goo into every nook and cranny!

Then, have at it with the rivet hammer!

BTW...

CJ

bmurrish · Post by **bmurrish** » Wed Nov 30, 2005 11:35 pm

Welcome Rudi,

You are correct on the buttering part. Just slather that baby up making sure you get it close enough to the edges so it will ooze out a bit. Slap it on and rivet away.