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OK, so I screwed up one of the counterweights big time. I drilled the first hole for the radius in the wrong spot. DUH!!

I am thinking of pouring new lead in the hole and starting over but am unsure of how well the new lead will stick to the original lead.

What do yall think?

I wouldn't think it would be an issue.

What did you do with the shavings from the hole? If you still have them, melt it down and pour it in.

Worst case scenario if it doesn't bond you just re-drill the hole and try something else.

I doubt that it will "stick," but since I haven't gotten that far, I don't know how important it is that it sticks. In machining, if you put a hole in the wrong place, the piece usually goes to the scrap barrel. Sometimes you can get away with press fitting a plug in something non-structural, but that's precision machining, not foundry work.

I spend most of my time across the hall from the machine shop, soldering. Solder is a mixture of tin and lead, and a lot of people have the idea that it's sort of like hot melt glue. It isn't. The solder has to bond the parts at the molecular level, and to do that, the parts have to be hot. What you propose is filling a stone-cold hole with molten lead. There's no reason I can see for it to bond.

Now, having said that, I've learned from vast experience that I'm often just plain wrong about things, so I'm perfectly happy to be corrected on this one, too.

I just spoke with a guy here at work who works with lead and he said that it will fuse with the existing lead. He told me to clamp a steel sheet to the thin part as it may melt too much and deform. I'm really on the fence on this right now.

Or you can just pay $9 for a new one and have them through it in with your wings.

a replacement is only 9$??

If that is so, just get the replacement and fuggedaboudit

The problem with the replacement part is that it will be imposible to drill the bolt holes thru the lead so they line up with the existing holes in the rib flanges I would have to refab 4 ribs

Not an option if I can help it.

Hi Will, no big deal!! Since that part will be wrapped with the tip, I would first make the hole wider at the bottom and keep it narrow at the top. Melt & pour no way it will come out or be seen for that matter. Good luck!! Ron

Thanks Ron. I got a reply from VAF that stated that the left CW doesn't get trimmed at all! I didn't see that

I was gonna fill it in and then trim it

I'm wondering if you got some solder flux and swapped it on the side of your holes and then poured the molten lead in if it would stick? Flux makes solder flow and stick nicely. Maybe you could score the inside of the holes you want to fil to give the molten lead something to bite onto?

That is a great idea. I actually just got some special lead flux from work! I am also going to score the inside of the hole.

Thanks

Another possibility, if you're gonna pour in the molten lead: First drill a couple of 3/16" or so holes that intersect the big hole at right angles. That'll sort of lock in the "plug" mechanically, because it will have a couple of integral "sticks" holding in into the part. Maybe ask your lead guy at work whether that's advisable, but I think it would help.

pwitch, I thought of that too, but Tom (the guy here at work) said it would not be needed because the lead would fuse together.

So did you get this filled up Will?

It was great to meet you and your wife Tuesday evening. Let me know when you want us to pick you up at the airport to go out to eat!

John, it was great to meet you and Luke. Denise is excited about flying over your way sometime soon. Should be fun.

As for the left counterweight: I filled the hole with lead but it did NOT fuse to the surounding material. I removed it as a perfect cylinder, scored it, and then prosealed it back in. It isn't going anywhere Problem solved.