I'm gathering as much info as possible prior to making a build decision. After much lurking on this site (great resource !) for about a month and seeing and flying a couple 7A's I have a couple questions for the guru's out there:
1. assuming a quality build, 180hp f/i with c/s prop, ifr panel what kind of cruise speeds are you seeing on finished, painted, flying 7A's with all their fairings and pants on at say 6-8k feet, 75% power
2. is it possible during the build to lower the seat pans ... i want 1-2 more inches of head room for my co-pilot and i ... i'm 6'1", co-pilot is 6'3" ... plan to use the thinnest high density foam available and i'm sure that will help but still would like to be able to drop down those extra couple inches.
3. has anyone used a curved top on the stick to get it more out in front of you rather than in your lap? seems like it would give more freedom of movement providing it would clear the panel bottom
thanks in advance for the assist
RV7A Questions
RV7A Questions
AA5B owner, thinking of building an RV7A
Re: RV7A Questions
I'm pretty sure all the 7A flyers out there will tell you that they honestly see Van's published numbers (they are pretty conservative) or better for whichever HP category you'll be in. http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/rv-7per.htmdrferrell wrote:1. assuming a quality build, 180hp f/i with c/s prop, ifr panel what kind of cruise speeds are you seeing on finished, painted, flying 7A's with all their fairings and pants on at say 6-8k feet, 75% power
You can't lower the seat pans without modifying the seat ribs. Van's did this when they made the 7/7A out of the 6/6A to get another two inches of head room. Any more cutting would really thin out the ribs, and structurally, it wouldn't be the same. Van's could be called on this one though...drferrell wrote:2. is it possible during the build to lower the seat pans ... i want 1-2 more inches of head room for my co-pilot and i ... i'm 6'1", co-pilot is 6'3" ... plan to use the thinnest high density foam available and i'm sure that will help but still would like to be able to drop down those extra couple inches.
The stick comes from Van's already welded with the appropriate attach holes at the bottom of the stick, but I would assume that one could take the factory stick, cut off the bottom portion, and weld a curved piece to the top to accomplish what you are talking about. Many people, myself included, have cut the stick to make it more comfortable in height, but I haven't heard of anyone modifying it to a curved stick. The one thing I would be leary of, is interference with the instrument panel when full down elevator is needed. I know the sticks are purpose designed, and Van doesn't see the need to make ANY mod to it...there was an article in the RVator a while back about this.drferrell wrote:3. has anyone used a curved top on the stick to get it more out in front of you rather than in your lap? seems like it would give more freedom of movement providing it would clear the panel bottom
There have been several people bend their sticks to have better movement. I had to cut mine off to have room for my grip to clear the brace below the panel. I don't remember his name, but there was a guy on the Yahoo RV8 list that put "s" curves in sticks for the builders. You might want to check over there. Good luck
Dan RV N742DA
Dan RV N742DA
- captain_john
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3) The stick/panel clearance thing seems to be individual. Many people install larger panels that change where the stick contacts the panel, combine this with a variety of grips and every install is a custom one.
Wicked Stick had his stick bent with an offset making it closer to his chest on his -8. I think it is an excellent idea! I need to sit in my -7 and install the panel and Infinity grips first before I will make my decision for custom stick changes.
2) Lowering the seat pans will cause a number of changes. The center section is complicated enough without doing this. Besides, there isn't much height there to possibly gain. I am 5' 11" and seem to fit fine with all the seating adjustments roughly in the center of their positions and the cushions in place. I am sure that if you make some adjustments to this seating configuration, you would fit fine, being only a couple of inches taller.
Your co-pilot will need an "in-the-ear" headset for good clearance from the canopy, I am willing to bet.
1) Like Chad said, Van's numbers are honest.
Sorry for the backwards order. I didn't plan on answering all your questions when I started typing, but I got on a roll. The backwards order is just the way it came out!
CJ
Wicked Stick had his stick bent with an offset making it closer to his chest on his -8. I think it is an excellent idea! I need to sit in my -7 and install the panel and Infinity grips first before I will make my decision for custom stick changes.
2) Lowering the seat pans will cause a number of changes. The center section is complicated enough without doing this. Besides, there isn't much height there to possibly gain. I am 5' 11" and seem to fit fine with all the seating adjustments roughly in the center of their positions and the cushions in place. I am sure that if you make some adjustments to this seating configuration, you would fit fine, being only a couple of inches taller.
Your co-pilot will need an "in-the-ear" headset for good clearance from the canopy, I am willing to bet.
1) Like Chad said, Van's numbers are honest.
Sorry for the backwards order. I didn't plan on answering all your questions when I started typing, but I got on a roll. The backwards order is just the way it came out!
CJ
RV-7
Garmin G3X with VP-X & a TMX-IO-360 with G3i
It's all over but the flying! 800+ hours in only 3 years!
Garmin G3X with VP-X & a TMX-IO-360 with G3i
It's all over but the flying! 800+ hours in only 3 years!
- captain_john
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