Which oil do you use/favor?

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cjensen
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Which oil do you use/favor?

Post by cjensen »

I'm a hair under 50 hours now, and will do my 50 hour oil change in the coming days. I've been running Phillips 20W-50M for break-in with fine results, but now I'm faced with sticking with Phillips (non mineral 20W-50), or switching to Aeroshell 100W for the summer months, then switching again to 15W-50 for winter flying. I haven't considered Exxon Elite because we can't get it reasonably here at work.

I've done all kinds of reading on the types, their differences, make-ups, benefits, downfalls, etc...I have it narrowed to the two choices above, but haven't been able to decide.

Phillips is all natural, and is recommended by ECI, but doesn't contain the anti-scuff additive that Lycoming wants (that Aeroshell PLUS oils do have, non-plus does not).

What do you guys use???
Chad Jensen
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painless
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Post by painless »

Phillips X/C 20W50
Jeff Orear
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lancef53
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Post by lancef53 »

Aeroshell 15-50 here, all year long.
RV 8
First Flight--4-3-2010

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newtech
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Post by newtech »

lancef53 wrote:Aeroshell 15-50 here, all year long.
Ditto. Mainly because it contains the Lycoming anti-ware additive. A local service station, a quarter mile from our hangar, carries it in stock for us.
Steve Eberhart, W9BOJ
3EV - Evansville, IN
Where is Steve and the Sky Terrier
RV-7A Slider, O-360 A1A, Catto 3 blade, New Panel with Garmin G3X and 696, Icom A210, Bionics APRS. FLYING since June 24, 2009

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cjensen
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Post by cjensen »

painless wrote:Phillips X/C 20W50
Do you put the additive in Jeff? I probably wouldn't but I'm curious...
Chad Jensen
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painless
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Post by painless »

No I don't, Chad. Oil stays relatively clean and oil analysis comes back within normal limits, if that is of any relevance.

Wasn't aeroshell's additive more focused on the 0320 H2AD to cure concerns with that engine?
Jeff Orear
RV6A N782P
Hatz Classic, Welding fuselage
Hatz build log. https://eaabuilderslog.org/?blproject&p ... GNCwv&sid=
Peshtigo, WI

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cjensen
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Post by cjensen »

That's my thought too...I do an oil analysis every change, and if something odd shows up, I'll know from that.

You are correct about the additive being focused on the H2AD, but Lycoming has recommended it for all engines using oil without the additive for some time now.
Chad Jensen
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painless
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Post by painless »

I don't think you will go wrong using either oil. If the Phillips is more available for you, go for it. IF not having the additive is a concern, shorten up the oil change interval.

It's compairable to ordering your prime rib medium or medium rare....both are quite satisfying.

How's THAT for an Otter subliminal message! :evil:
Jeff Orear
RV6A N782P
Hatz Classic, Welding fuselage
Hatz build log. https://eaabuilderslog.org/?blproject&p ... GNCwv&sid=
Peshtigo, WI

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cjensen
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Post by cjensen »

painless wrote:I don't think you will go wrong using either oil. If the Phillips is more available for you, go for it. IF not having the additive is a concern, shorten up the oil change interval.

It's compairable to ordering your prime rib medium or medium rare....both are quite satisfying.

How's THAT for an Otter subliminal message! :evil:
Nice Jeff! Nice!!

I agree with you on all points...especially the prime rib comments! 8)
Chad Jensen
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hydroguy2
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Post by hydroguy2 »

mmm, prime rib.

we need a ride that night to the Otter. did we pick a night yet? I vote wednesday


Back to regular programming.

I'm using Aeroshell 80W mineral for breakin and will probably do Aeroshell 100W later...only based on engine builder recommendation.
Brian
Townsend, MT

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Post by Spike »

Ive always used Aeroshell 15-50, all year long a well. However having read some opinions of Mr Bush lately I might switch to the 100W camp for spring summer fall.

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Pittsbuilder
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Post by Pittsbuilder »

Fwiw, in my experience aeroshell 100W is about the only oil I would run... The Phillips 20W50 stuff has had some really bad reviews in the past, also the polymers in the oil that make it multi-viscosity can break down fairly quickly, necessitating more frequent oil changes, and it's more expensive. 100W is well proven, and the only oil you need in most climates... I would personally run it all year and use a block heater for winter unless I was in an extremely cold climate, I might run 80W for the coldest months.

Dan

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