Horizontal is on

jim_geo · Post by **jim_geo** » Sat Dec 02, 2006 1:31 am

I've been working on the stabilizer attachment all week and I finally got it done tonight. It's been a long week of prepping the fiddely bits. It is 1/64” out of square, I'll take it!

captain_john · Post by **captain_john** » Sat Dec 02, 2006 7:30 am

Lookin' great Jim!

Hey, how durable is that Sherwin Williams wash primer?

What primer did you use on the emp?

Rich M. has just picked up a gallon of the stuff (the no mixing kind, they make a 2 part version too) and I like the sounds of it. The only pitfall of the one part stuff is drying time. I guess it is supposed to take HOURS to dry.

I would be willing to try it. Don't know when or on what.

CJ

JohnR · Post by **JohnR** » Sat Dec 02, 2006 9:19 am

Nice Jim! I think we would all take 1/64th.

It sure helps to see photos like this to get a mental picture of what is coming. Thanks for sharing.

jim_geo · Post by **jim_geo** » Sat Dec 02, 2006 4:05 pm

CJ I think you must be referring to the primer that Bonanza uses in the Philippines. If so that stuff really holds up great. Very resistant to wear. The spars and ribs of my emp. were aluma prepped and alodined then lightly shot with zinc chromate. On the inside of the skins I used the blue vinyl as a mask and shot Nappa 7220 where the ribs and skins meet. After the emp. I switched to the MEK, Scotch Bright and Nappa 7220 method of priming and haven't looked back except for the aileron and flap brackets which I did use aluma prep, alodine and zinc chromate.

JohnR if I remember correctly you're building a slow build. I do a lot of comparison at Dan Checkoway's web page to see how he got something done. Since I'm finishing a Quick build there is a big difference in how as well as when things get done but his site still helps. Most builders building the slow build probably put the tail on while they still have good access to that area. On the QB the tail cone is finished and there is lousy access to the bolt hole area on the deck under the front spar. For me it became a lot of very careful measuring and rechecking, fitting and refitting of the HS to get the dimensions and insure that I could end up with the proper hole to edge distance on the longeron flange.

bmurrish · Post by **bmurrish** » Sat Dec 02, 2006 5:23 pm

Congrats Jim, you got the easy one done. The vertical was a little tougher for me.

jim_geo · Post by **jim_geo** » Sat Dec 02, 2006 7:14 pm

I've been looking at that and see that it could be a pain. Do you have any insight that I may be able to use? Locating and drilling the four lower bolt holes on the spar looks like it will be fairly hard for me to do.

Wicked Stick · Post by **Wicked Stick** » Sat Dec 02, 2006 11:33 pm

The hardest part for me was spending a bunch of time making sure I had good edge distance before drilling the outer holes that goes down through the longerons.

I only needed a tiny shim on one side to get it level using the smart level.

jim_geo · Post by **jim_geo** » Thu Dec 07, 2006 1:19 am

Ya mean like this.

Wicked Stick · Post by **Wicked Stick** » Thu Dec 07, 2006 8:39 pm

Yep...
In order to get mine exactly like yours, I needed a very thin shim on one side. Probably about .004 or .006 thousands.

Nice work on yours.

jim_geo · Post by **jim_geo** » Thu Dec 07, 2006 10:42 pm

Actually I needed considerably more than that!

Also for those taking notes. Drawing 27A shows the trimming of the front spar of the VS web and flange 5/8". It would be worth your time to make a note to yourself on that page that 1/2" may be enough. I took the full 5/8" and came close to not having the proper hole to edge distance. All is good but almost not.

tshort · Post by **tshort** » Fri Dec 08, 2006 12:53 am

Jim-

This may be a stupid question as I am not to the part where I mount the HS yet...
Is there a specific predetermined location for the two pieces of angle you have on there? It seems like variation in their position could make the level show the HS level when it is not... does that make sense?

Thomas

jim_geo · Post by **jim_geo** » Fri Dec 08, 2006 1:28 am

Yup you make sense. The position I picked for the angles to lie is for the aft edge of the angle to line up with the center of the second rivet forward of the main spar and for the apex of the angle to be in line with that same row of rivets. Angles were both cut 2" in length. Then the aft edge of the level was lined up with the aft edge of the spar giving me what I felt to be a pretty accurate measure. FYI, after having done this setup I got the same result by just laying the leval atop the skins at the spar.

tshort · Post by **tshort** » Fri Dec 08, 2006 3:13 am

Thanks!
I guess I'm not the only person up at 0100 ... unfortunately, I am doing real work and not RV work

T.

jim_geo · Post by **jim_geo** » Fri Dec 08, 2006 3:19 am

It's midnight here but expect to be up till at least two tonight.