Ok friends, I need some calibration on deburring and surface-finishing those big pieces of AB4 bar that go into the fuse bulkheads. You know the ones I'm talking about - they form the rear spar carrythrough, and also hold the seat belt anchors.
I should have looked at the parts sooner - like before drilling them to the bulkhead! - but now I'm down to the deburring stage and am finding some "leftovers" from the forming process....rough edges, deep surface flaws, etc. Here's an example...
I don't recall having these problems on the emp or wing bar stock.
Anybody else have these problems? Did you sand/scotchbrite them completely out?
Thanks,
Dave
Crappy bar stock!
Crappy bar stock!
Dave Setser
Avionics, Firewall Forward
http://www.mightyrv.com
Putting the "slow" in slow-build since 2004
Avionics, Firewall Forward
http://www.mightyrv.com
Putting the "slow" in slow-build since 2004
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- Chief Rivet Banger
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I would try and take those out. For me the deciding factor is generally whether or not they catch my thumb nail. I don't know if you have one but scotchbrite pads on a roloc connector works great with a die grinder. It makes quick and good work or things like that.
Spike
Spike
http://www.rivetbangers.com - Now integrating web and mail!
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Current Build: 2 years into a beautiful little girl
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I had some scratches that looked like cracks on some of the heavier HS pieces. Scotch bright wheel took them down fine. This was also reviewed by Vans, via photos over e-mail...they said "buffum out and build."
(Color due to incandesant lighting)
CD
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CD
RV-8A
Wing Kit (Slow Build...very slow build)
Home of "Skunk Works, Wisconsin Branch"
"Glacial Pace...but lovin every minute of it!"
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- TomNativeNewYorker
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I tend to disagree. both of these examples are defects of manufacture. Neither are life-threatening.TomNativeNewYorker wrote:The top pic looks like intergranular corrosion.
Bottom one looks like a crack radiating from the hole.
As has been stated earlier, scotchbright them out and move on. In the original example, you may end up with a slight "trough", or "channel", but so long as it is smooth, no worries.
Jeff Orear
RV6A N782P
Hatz Classic, Welding fuselage
Hatz build log. https://eaabuilderslog.org/?blproject&p ... GNCwv&sid=
Peshtigo, WI
RV6A N782P
Hatz Classic, Welding fuselage
Hatz build log. https://eaabuilderslog.org/?blproject&p ... GNCwv&sid=
Peshtigo, WI
- captain_john
- Sparky
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Dave,
I had lots of material that looked like that. I used my angle die grinder with Roloc Scotchbrite "cookies" to buff them out.
It made short work of the process.
Buff those puppies out and build on!
CJ
I had lots of material that looked like that. I used my angle die grinder with Roloc Scotchbrite "cookies" to buff them out.
It made short work of the process.
Buff those puppies out and build on!
CJ
RV-7
Garmin G3X with VP-X & a TMX-IO-360 with G3i
It's all over but the flying! 800+ hours in only 3 years!
Garmin G3X with VP-X & a TMX-IO-360 with G3i
It's all over but the flying! 800+ hours in only 3 years!
Thanks everybody, I appreciate the sanity check. Sometimes I get wrapped around the axle on small stuff...maybe the oxygen is running low in the shop!
I'd run out of those scotchbrite roloc discs, but after this thread I went shopping for more. Levine Auto and Truck Parts has 'em in boxes of 25 for less than a buck apiece. Avery sells discs indivdually for $2 apiece, so if you're willing to buy in bulk you can save some money.
Thanks again...
I'd run out of those scotchbrite roloc discs, but after this thread I went shopping for more. Levine Auto and Truck Parts has 'em in boxes of 25 for less than a buck apiece. Avery sells discs indivdually for $2 apiece, so if you're willing to buy in bulk you can save some money.
Thanks again...
Dave Setser
Avionics, Firewall Forward
http://www.mightyrv.com
Putting the "slow" in slow-build since 2004
Avionics, Firewall Forward
http://www.mightyrv.com
Putting the "slow" in slow-build since 2004