RV8 conversion to RV8A??

GPappy · Post by **GPappy** » Thu Feb 02, 2006 8:24 pm

May have been answered but I couldn't find it. Can a RV8 be converted to Tricycle Gear?

Thanks,
Greg

cjensen · Post by **cjensen** » Thu Feb 02, 2006 8:47 pm

i know that vans converted their -7 to a -7A, and i think they sell a kit to do the conversion.

call 'em and see.

Dan A · Post by **Dan A** » Thu Feb 02, 2006 9:20 pm

Now why would you want to do that??

Dan RV8 N742DA 75+ hrs

jim_geo · Post by **jim_geo** » Thu Feb 02, 2006 11:46 pm

Because Dan 7A's & 8A's are better. Hmmm I looked but didn't see an Emoticon for "smart ass".

bmurrish · Post by **bmurrish** » Fri Feb 03, 2006 12:07 am

Greg, Are you trying to convert a finished RV-8 or one you are building? If you are building, how far along are you?

hngrflyr · Post by **hngrflyr** » Fri Feb 03, 2006 1:14 am

Before I found my RV-6, I was considering an RV-6A with the intention of converting it to conventional gear. It's a little involved, but doable. I was about ready to do it.

Bob Severns

captain_john · Post by **captain_john** » Fri Feb 03, 2006 6:59 am

The -8 has gear towers that are a very complicated, designed "IN" affair. In order to do this you would have to add the additional nosedragger weldments and leave the towers in place. This would be heavy and unusual. You would also need all the nosewheel stuff, of course.

I think it would be much easier to learn how to fly the -8 instead of changing it to a -8A. It is much involved and unless you really wanted to for some unknown reason, I would leave it alone.

CJ

GPappy · Post by **GPappy** » Fri Feb 03, 2006 9:07 pm

Actually I own 4 tail draggers and haven't flown a nose gear aircraft in years. The reason I ask is that I actually like the looks of the 8A (kind of like a T34) and I thought it might be easier for my wife to fly. I was looking at a QB 8 kit for sale and was wondering what it would take to convert it to a Trike in case I bought it and decided I wanted an A.
Thanks for the input.

Greg

bmurrish · Post by **bmurrish** » Fri Feb 03, 2006 9:17 pm

You would probably be better off looking for or building an "A" model than the pain and money it would cost to convert. I did a bunch of searching on the Van's Aircraft site and was surprised that I couldn't find anything on the subject except for the fact that they converted a -7 to a -7A. I'm surprised they don't have a section on it. If you are truely interested in doing the conversion, your best bet would be to give them a call.

Good luck

GPappy · Post by **GPappy** » Fri Feb 03, 2006 9:26 pm

Yes, I looked over Vans site before posting here. I have found that quite often just because the factory doesn't support something doesn't mean that someone has not done it. I had just hoped that someone on this site might have tried it or knew someone that had. Oh well.

Greg

jim_geo · Post by **jim_geo** » Fri Feb 24, 2006 12:59 pm

I just happened upon this piece of info in my Builders manual. For an RV7 it says

“It is recommended that RV7 builders install rivets the same way to retain the possibility of taildragger to tri-gear conversion.”

This was found in Section 8 page 10 about a third of the way down the page. Not a direct answer to your question but close counts

. I'm thinking the conversion can go both ways with effort.

chaskuss · Post by **chaskuss** » Sat Apr 29, 2006 8:22 am

Greg,
The main things that need to be changed are the belly skin and possibly the two inner floor ribs under the belly skin. The A model has ribs which are made from .063" material. This is to help support the firewall and motor mount where the two additional motor mount bolts for the nose gear go.
Check with Vans to see what thickness the 8 inner floor ribs are made from. You will also have to drill out 20 3/16" rivets from your F-804 main spar center section. These rivets get replaced with bolts. The bolts are used to mount the A model main landing gear weldments.
The 8 has very stout landing gear towers (which greatly restrict leg room) to support the main gear you will remove. You could leave these in place. You could also drill them off and save 8-10 pounds. If you do that, you'll have to fill the rivet holes with rivets simply to fill the holes in the side skins. You'll also have to install the lightweight F-802 bulkheads to support the side skins. Best to do that while the belly skin is off, as there are 4 rivets between the F-802 and the floor. You'd also have to buy and install the mid cabin cover parts for the 8A (F-8113)
I can send you photos of my 8A structure in that area. You'll save weight, improve leg room and have longer, more useful mid cabin covers.
Charlie Kuss

captain_john · Post by **captain_john** » Sat Apr 29, 2006 3:06 pm

As much as I love taildraggers (you already know that and I won't digress) if I were to build an -8 it would probably be nosedragger for those very reasons, Charlie!

CJ

chaskuss · Post by **chaskuss** » Sat Apr 29, 2006 3:43 pm

Cap'n John,
I started my slow build as an 8. I changed my mind after getting to sit in the cockpit of both an 8QB and 8AQB. I'm 6'4" tall. I really like the extra leg room (side to side) that the 8A offers. The reduced weight was a bonus. Did I mention that insurance is 30% cheaper too?

Charlie Kuss

bmurrish · Post by **bmurrish** » Sat Apr 29, 2006 4:59 pm

Oh God, here we go again.

captain_john · Post by **captain_john** » Sat Apr 29, 2006 7:29 pm

Hahahaha,

...it ain't about money. The only REAL way to save money on an airplane is to not own it!

CJ