Tail Wiring Complete!

Speed3Guy · Post by **Speed3Guy** » Thu Oct 04, 2007 8:06 pm

I'm bad about project updates. Here's one.

I decided to get all of the tail wiring done prior to riveting the top skin on. I'm actually pretty excited to be doing wiring. It's one of the first places on the project I've had to come up with my own solutions. I wound up adding some .025" stiffners down the center of the tail cone in order to stiffen things up, keep wiring neat and away from the rudder cables, and to seperate the strobe wire from the magnetometer to be mounted on the upper section of F-809. Due to the improperly mounted adel clamps (screw at the bottom) the bundle is in heatshrink tube and I'm using wedge type (WD) clamps.

Magnetometer mount:

svanarts · Post by **svanarts** » Fri Oct 05, 2007 12:10 am

Nice! Very neat.

jim_geo · Post by **jim_geo** » Fri Oct 05, 2007 2:23 am

Giveing me some great ideas. Looks very nice.

captain_john · Post by **captain_john** » Fri Oct 05, 2007 2:50 am

Guy, the conversion coating looks AWESOME!

You are doing some really neat work and it looks great!

Is that mag mount your own design or did it come from a mfg?

CJ

Wicked Stick · Post by **Wicked Stick** » Fri Oct 05, 2007 6:25 am

Looks good Guy,

Nice workmanship. It looks like there's quite a few more lightening holes in the new RV-8 match hole fuselage bulkheads.

clreding · Post by **clreding** » Fri Oct 05, 2007 7:07 am

Very nice.

Speed3Guy · Post by **Speed3Guy** » Fri Oct 05, 2007 8:23 am

captain_john wrote:Guy, the conversion coating looks AWESOME!

You are doing some really neat work and it looks great!

Is that mag mount your own design or did it come from a mfg?

CJ

The mag mount is my own design. It's designed around the Crossbow sensor that AFS uses. It has an 8* angle built in, to match the panel. I'll shim the actual sensor as required to get the +/- .2* required in roll and pitch.

I would have to clean it up a bit first, but I could provide the drawing/template if anyone wanted.

One thing I forgot to mention is that the sticky pads are riveted with pop rivets. I'm not relying on the adhesive.

Thanks for the feedback. Let me know if you see something iffy!

dons · Post by **dons** » Fri Oct 05, 2007 11:13 am

Very neat job Guy, keep it up!

captain_john · Post by **captain_john** » Sat Oct 06, 2007 7:19 am

Guy, if that is for the Crossbow AHRS I am guessing that you are going with Advanced Flight Systems?

If so, YES... I am interested in the dims on the bracket! I am willing to bet that Wicked Stick is interested too!

Keep us posted with your updates!

CJ

Speed3Guy · Post by **Speed3Guy** » Sat Oct 06, 2007 10:54 am

I've had a few questions about primer, so I'll post my scheme here. As a note, if this turns into an argument about the pros & cons of various priming schemes, I'll duck out in a hurry. Those are decisions we have to make for ourselves.

I'm using PPG DX1791 / 1792. It's a spray on chromating primer that behaves somewhat like alodine but is easier to work with. For the exterior, I'll use DX 1791 followed by PPG DPLF epoxy primer prior to topcoating. The painted bits of the interior are PPG concept directly over the DX1791.

Guy

captain_john · Post by **captain_john** » Sun Oct 07, 2007 6:17 am

Without looking at the data sheets, it sounds good to me.

The Chromate Primer is probably a self etch, I expect. The top coat is likely to be a urethane, I am also guessing?

With all the products I have seen and with the DuPont stuff I have used, you need to apply an acrylic sealer between the two applications.

If you don't, you could have fisheyes due to air becoming trapped beneath the topcoat. The sealer is said to improve DOI (Distinctness Of Image) as it is called in the coatings field. You can WIKI it up but it essentially means, being able to see your reflection clearly.

I don't think brand matters. A molecule of paint doesn't know who sold it. It is all chemistry.

I find it interesting!

Lemme know if you have any questions. I have done a lotta reading and I have the guys at school in the auto body shop as a resource.

CJ

captain_john · Post by **captain_john** » Sun Oct 07, 2007 6:26 am

Yup, I found the tech sheet:

http://www.pwpaints.com/images/download ... -p-141.pdf

It MUST be primed or sealed before topcoating.

I would do BOTH, personally. I am convinced that when you are looking for durability and corrosion resistance in a highly corrosive atmosphere, applying a wash primer as a base over an alodined part... you are off to a GREAT start!

This wash prime looks like a good one!

CJ

BuckWynd · Post by **BuckWynd** » Mon Oct 08, 2007 10:49 am

Nice work, Guy! Looks really great.

After looking at your photos, I can really appreciate the benefits of a Standard-Built kit. (I've been installing the same stuff in a Quickbuild fuselage, and it's a whole different clasutrophobia-inducing ballgame when the skins are already riveted on...)

I noticed that your ELT and strobe mounts have AN470 domed rivets on the top of the longeron. Just curious what your plan is for the baggage shelf above them -- will you cut small holes in the shelf to accomodate these rivets?

Speed3Guy · Post by **Speed3Guy** » Mon Oct 08, 2007 2:24 pm

Those are actually #8 pan head screws into nutplates. Yes, I've notched the flange of the baggage floor around them. I didn't want to put a huge countersink in the longeron there.

Speed3Guy · Post by **Speed3Guy** » Mon Oct 08, 2007 2:30 pm

captain_john wrote:Yup, I found the tech sheet:

http://www.pwpaints.com/images/download ... -p-141.pdf

It MUST be primed or sealed before topcoating.

I would do BOTH, personally. I am convinced that when you are looking for durability and corrosion resistance in a highly corrosive atmosphere, applying a wash primer as a base over an alodined part... you are off to a GREAT start!

This wash prime looks like a good one!

CJ

Yup, that's why I'm adding the DPLF epoxy primer for the exterior. That said, my interior seems fine to be without it, and there are several RV's that have painted the exterior directly over DX1791/DX1792 with no ill effects. The most famous examples are Randy Lervold's RV-8 and RV-3.

Also, the P sheets from PW paints are out of date. DPLF is an acceptable layer between DX1791 and Concept.

captain_john · Post by **captain_john** » Mon Oct 08, 2007 2:43 pm

Nice!

I like talkin' paints!

CJ