Fuel sender gasket seal?
Fuel sender gasket seal?
I am currently working on a QB -9 wing, and received a very rubbery (silicone?) type gasket with the fuel sender kit from Vans... after prowling around on the forums, I have read both "throw away the gasket", and "use the gasket, but put a lot of Proseal on everything."
Regarding the installation. I have 2 questions... is one method favored over the other, and also, if one needs to remove the fuel sender, will a "hot air type" heat gun, soften the Proseal to facilitate removal, (as is done with epoxy glue)
Regarding the installation. I have 2 questions... is one method favored over the other, and also, if one needs to remove the fuel sender, will a "hot air type" heat gun, soften the Proseal to facilitate removal, (as is done with epoxy glue)
toss it
throw it in the trash. i have removed the plates one time before and found that they were easy enough to remove without heat. i would be especially careful about using heat on alu. even a heat gun. it will likely be easier to remove the sender with the gasket installed but it will likely leak . to top that off, the screws are not long enough that come with the sender.
william....don't let it beat you down, you are stronger than you think.
You know, it's funny how people choose when to listen to Van's, and when not to...Van's says to toss a gasket that comes from the sender manufacturer, we do it. Van's says to not install more HP than what they say in any of their airplanes, and people install whatever they want. IO-360 in a 9? Heck yeah! IO-540 in a 7? You betchya!weezbad wrote: says who. vans said to toss it. what is the difference of not using a gasket here v/s the plate?
Sorry Willy...not really directed at you, just an observation.
I used the gaskets for the sender with gasket seal (we call it grape jelly at work) and sealant. Stewart Warner says to use them, the A&P's here at work say to use them.
I don't know the difference between using the two gaskets, other than one is rubber, and the other is cork. I used 'em both.
Do what you want, I suppose...

Last edited by cjensen on Fri Jan 25, 2008 11:38 am, edited 1 time in total.
- captain_john
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Okay, I will jump in on this one!
ProSeal seals EVERYTHING!
ProSeal seals aluminum to aluminum, aluminum to gasket material and everything in between!
I say that if you want to use the gasket, use the gasket. If not, don't. It won't matter either way.
I used the cork gasket on the access hole because I felt that it would allow the cover to be removed more easily. You know, the cork will fall apart when I begin to pry at it. I know the ProSeal won't give up so easily.
My two!
CJ
ProSeal seals EVERYTHING!
ProSeal seals aluminum to aluminum, aluminum to gasket material and everything in between!
I say that if you want to use the gasket, use the gasket. If not, don't. It won't matter either way.
I used the cork gasket on the access hole because I felt that it would allow the cover to be removed more easily. You know, the cork will fall apart when I begin to pry at it. I know the ProSeal won't give up so easily.
My two!

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Garmin G3X with VP-X & a TMX-IO-360 with G3i
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My tanks didn't come with a rubbery/silicone gasket...they came with a cork one. I knew too many people who needed to replace the cork ones over the years because of leaking -- cork is a porous material after all. If my kit came with a silicone gasket, I would of used that instead of prosealing the access plate directly on the root rib.
Mike Bullock
http://www.rvplane.com
RV-7 | Superior IO-360 | Whirlwind 200RV
Garmin GTN650 | GRT Dual Sport SX EFIS
Status: FLYING!
http://www.rvplane.com
RV-7 | Superior IO-360 | Whirlwind 200RV
Garmin GTN650 | GRT Dual Sport SX EFIS
Status: FLYING!
in the voice of Major paynecjensen wrote:
Sorry Willy...not really directed at you, just an observation.
aint got to be no name callin

and yes we listen to vans when it serves us


seriously, i think


at the risk of being moderated i appologize in advance if this offends one...i am laughing and so should you.......all

Last edited by weezbad on Fri Jan 25, 2008 1:29 pm, edited 2 times in total.
william....don't let it beat you down, you are stronger than you think.
????
i did one of each, when i took them off ( for the pick up sb)the cork was more difficult to cleanoff from the seperated parts and wasnt easier to seperate. it had never been exposed to fuel however. YMMV
either way the difference is negligible
either way the difference is negligible
william....don't let it beat you down, you are stronger than you think.
I have cap senders, so no rubber, but I installed my access plates with the cork gasket coated in fuellube. Removable, and seals. That's how A&Ps do it on certified birds, so it's good enough for me.
Ian
RV-7 SB, chugging toward final assembly
IO-360-C1C 200hp obtained.
Hartzell BA prop received.
James Cowl ordered.
N773WW reserved!
RV-7 SB, chugging toward final assembly
IO-360-C1C 200hp obtained.
Hartzell BA prop received.
James Cowl ordered.
N773WW reserved!
leak teasted?
if you leak tested it and it held i would go forward and check it conditional inspectiosns. but to used a heavy sealer on top of a gasket is somewhat a waste of time. the only time i will use a sealer along with a gasket is at the recomendation of the manufacturer. and then it is usually a almost transparent spray on type. ie. "copper coat", "hi tack" or the like.but never a rtv thick like sealer..not saying it wont work but that you dont need both. the generic design of these tanks with screws that penetrate the fliud cavity into nut plates you have to use sealer, so in doing that i toss the gaskets....ther are ten million ways to skin a cat.
i suppose.
ive taken stuff apart that were cobbled together like more is better and it gives me a good idea of the last person that worked on it.

ive taken stuff apart that were cobbled together like more is better and it gives me a good idea of the last person that worked on it.
william....don't let it beat you down, you are stronger than you think.
fuel lube is good stuff and if you ever have to take them off it will be a breeze. i'll stay with the proseal though. keep in mind i am not saying cork is inferior. it is a great gasket when properly installed. and not overtorqued. it will last a loooong time . most people just overdo it.tmbg wrote:I have cap senders, so no rubber, but I installed my access plates with the cork gasket coated in fuellube. Removable, and seals. That's how A&Ps do it on certified birds, so it's good enough for me.
william....don't let it beat you down, you are stronger than you think.
Well, as a guy who has to fix a leak that has develped around the rubber gasket that came with the fuel senders I can say, throw the rubber gasket away, proseal that puppy on. I used the cork seal that came with the access plate and it *seems* to be holding just fine. I used fuel lube on both sides of that and I don't think it's leaking there. I have to pull my left tank to fix the leak. I'll let y'all know where it's coming from once I find it.
I'm pretty sure it's the rubber gasket though.
I'm pretty sure it's the rubber gasket though.
Scott VanArtsdalen
Token Heretic
Nirvana Rodeo / Dudek Universal
S-6ES N612SV - GONE but not forgotten
RV-4 N311SV - SOLD
Token Heretic
Nirvana Rodeo / Dudek Universal
S-6ES N612SV - GONE but not forgotten
RV-4 N311SV - SOLD
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I used both gaskets, and no proseal except for the screws. I did dab the screws in proseal before screwing them in to keep the threads from wicking fuel out of the tank.
So far it has all held tight despite a few removal / installation cycles.
John
So far it has all held tight despite a few removal / installation cycles.
John
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