Dimpling the Elevator Skin
Dimpling the Elevator Skin
Did anybody elese have trouble getting nice clean dimples in the elev skin when using a C-frame? Because of the rounded pre-formed leading edge, when I did the dimples near there, the skin tended to arch up away from the dimple die ... I got decent dimples, but there were noticeable pucker marks alongside them on the spar holes. After six, I couldn't stand the puckering, so I went to the pop dimpler. That makes for s-l-o-w going, though the dimples are clean.
It seems the .016 elev skin has a major tendency to pucker if it's not PURfectly flat on the c-frame. And with the curl at the leading edge, that's tough to achieve. Anybody else?
(Rhetorical question: Should I now refer to that area at the front edge of my elevator surface as a "dimpled foreskin"? )
It seems the .016 elev skin has a major tendency to pucker if it's not PURfectly flat on the c-frame. And with the curl at the leading edge, that's tough to achieve. Anybody else?
(Rhetorical question: Should I now refer to that area at the front edge of my elevator surface as a "dimpled foreskin"? )
- captain_john
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Rupy,
In answer to your question, Yes... in your case!
Now, ummm... unless I am envisioning this wrong, why didn't you put the Male die in the bottom and the female on top? This way you could let the curl do it's thing and it wouldn't have been a problem.
CJ
In answer to your question, Yes... in your case!
Now, ummm... unless I am envisioning this wrong, why didn't you put the Male die in the bottom and the female on top? This way you could let the curl do it's thing and it wouldn't have been a problem.
CJ
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CJ,
I always have the male die on the bottom. When you pull the upper surface back to slide the lower into the C-frame, the lower skins arches up ... away from the die. I tried best I could to flatten it back down, but was getting nasty marks in the process. (just like gradeschool... )
Did you not encounter that problem?
Rupester
I always have the male die on the bottom. When you pull the upper surface back to slide the lower into the C-frame, the lower skins arches up ... away from the die. I tried best I could to flatten it back down, but was getting nasty marks in the process. (just like gradeschool... )
Did you not encounter that problem?
Rupester
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Only a few, hundred that is. I know exactly what you are talking about Rupey.
What I did was form a rig that could help to keep the skins open. And then on top of that I enlisted the help of my wife to keep the skins level and flat relative to the die. Otherwise I had the exact same problem. Its possible to do it, just takes time.
-- John
What I did was form a rig that could help to keep the skins open. And then on top of that I enlisted the help of my wife to keep the skins level and flat relative to the die. Otherwise I had the exact same problem. Its possible to do it, just takes time.
-- John
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- Lorin Dueck
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Rupy -
I saw a post a while ago where the builder took a couple of pieces of flat iron (Say ~1 1/2 x 1/4 x 36" long) and bent it 90 deg in the middle to form an "L".
He match drilled a few rivet holes at the ends - and then clecoed the angle supports on the inside of the skin.
It looked really simple & light - but effective at keeping the skin open and flat!!
Lorin D
9A Wings
I saw a post a while ago where the builder took a couple of pieces of flat iron (Say ~1 1/2 x 1/4 x 36" long) and bent it 90 deg in the middle to form an "L".
He match drilled a few rivet holes at the ends - and then clecoed the angle supports on the inside of the skin.
It looked really simple & light - but effective at keeping the skin open and flat!!
Lorin D
9A Wings
- captain_john
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I've noticed a big difference in the quality of the dimples I've made with the DRDT. I built the emp with a c-frame, and most of them were good, but I know there are some towards the leading edges that didn't turn out the way I would've liked.
Some people swear by the c-frame. I made a nice one, but the DRDT is just tops!!
Some people swear by the c-frame. I made a nice one, but the DRDT is just tops!!
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The DRDT most likely would not fix this issue. I believe you guys have elevators with a bend on the trailing edge right?
-- John
-- John
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- captain_john
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Re: Dimpling the Elevator Skin
Preformed rounded leading edge? Who else has that? I had to roll mine with a stick - probably the least satisfying part of the tail kit...Rupester wrote:Because of the rounded pre-formed leading edge,
Thomas
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Yes, on the 9's the elevator skins come in one piece, and are joined at the TE, instead of the front. The front is pre-rolled for you. The result is a large flimsy clam shell that is a real pain to hold open far enough so that you can dimple the forward most holes.
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