
Christmas came early for me!
- RVNewsletter
- Class D
- Posts: 259
- Joined: Wed Mar 29, 2006 9:57 am
- Location: St. Paul, MN.
- Contact:
Chad - I should probably know this, but what is "Tight Seal"? Not the same as Fuel Lube, right?cjensen wrote:Hmm...they are fuel line fittings, sealed with Tight Seal.

Dave G.
Building N149DG RV-9A Finish Kit, O-320-E2A, Dual AFS-3500
Flying the restored N3689Q, the lowest time airworthy Beech Super III.
Building N149DG RV-9A Finish Kit, O-320-E2A, Dual AFS-3500
Flying the restored N3689Q, the lowest time airworthy Beech Super III.
- RVNewsletter
- Class D
- Posts: 259
- Joined: Wed Mar 29, 2006 9:57 am
- Location: St. Paul, MN.
- Contact:
Boy, I can't imagine that jam nuts would have any role on NPT fittings like this. There's no posible way for these to come loose; at least not before the rest of your plane shakes apart.cjensen wrote:Jam nuts? Why? They are NPT pipe threads...TomNativeNewYorker wrote:No jam nuts on those 90 degree AN fittings Chad?
EWWWWWW !!!
I like the idea of using something there, kind of like pipe dope in home gas plumbing. I don't think Fuel Lube is the same, it seems to stay the same consistancy out of the tube. Does the Tight Seal dry up a bit after you put it on?

I like the idea of using something there, kind of like pipe dope in home gas plumbing. I don't think Fuel Lube is the same, it seems to stay the same consistancy out of the tube. Does the Tight Seal dry up a bit after you put it on?
Dave G.
Building N149DG RV-9A Finish Kit, O-320-E2A, Dual AFS-3500
Flying the restored N3689Q, the lowest time airworthy Beech Super III.
Building N149DG RV-9A Finish Kit, O-320-E2A, Dual AFS-3500
Flying the restored N3689Q, the lowest time airworthy Beech Super III.
- cnpeters
- Class E
- Posts: 185
- Joined: Tue Jul 04, 2006 7:04 pm
- Location: Eureka (St. Louis), MO
- Contact:
It's just sitting there for the pic. I'll probably find a piece of PVC pipe or something else the same diameter and make a spacer flush to the edge of the valve plate for better aesthetics. I will use JB Weld/epoxy, and may cover with the interior leather/pleather that I will use for the AFP box and rest of valve assembly cover.
Another option would be use small machine screws and secure to the aluminum housing using bushing spacers to hold up enough to clear those bolt heads.
Another option would be use small machine screws and secure to the aluminum housing using bushing spacers to hold up enough to clear those bolt heads.
cjensen wrote:Here's a pic of Carl's sitting on top of the valve plate...
I suppose one could locate the bolts on the bottom of the plate, and carefully drill relief's for them...
From everything I have read on the instructions and forums tells you to use Fuel Lube on fuel NPT fittings and permatex sealant on all non-fuel (oil, etc..) fittings. Fuel lube never cures - it stays in the "I am gonna get on your clothes one way or another" form. According to the ACS website on EZ-Turn (the Fuel Lube replacement) "EZ Turn is also extremely efficient as a gasket paste & anti- seize agent. EZ Turn will not gum, crack or dry out."
The permatex does end up drying and becoming harder, but it never really dries. Superior used permatex on all my engine oil and primer/manifold pressure fittings. So I continued to do so.
All I know is one of the more famous RV-7 builders out there used Fuel Lube on all of his fuel fittings and I haven't heard him complain about a leak in 1700+ hours. That's good enough for me!
The permatex does end up drying and becoming harder, but it never really dries. Superior used permatex on all my engine oil and primer/manifold pressure fittings. So I continued to do so.
All I know is one of the more famous RV-7 builders out there used Fuel Lube on all of his fuel fittings and I haven't heard him complain about a leak in 1700+ hours. That's good enough for me!
Mike Bullock
http://www.rvplane.com
RV-7 | Superior IO-360 | Whirlwind 200RV
Garmin GTN650 | GRT Dual Sport SX EFIS
Status: FLYING!
http://www.rvplane.com
RV-7 | Superior IO-360 | Whirlwind 200RV
Garmin GTN650 | GRT Dual Sport SX EFIS
Status: FLYING!
It's the same...Tite Seal never dries. You can leave the lid off this stuff, and it will function the same as if the lid were on, and stored in a warm spot. We use it at work on everything fuel and oil related.RV9inIowa wrote:EWWWWWW !!!![]()
I like the idea of using something there, kind of like pipe dope in home gas plumbing. I don't think Fuel Lube is the same, it seems to stay the same consistancy out of the tube. Does the Tight Seal dry up a bit after you put it on?
As I said, Tite Seal is the same stuff as Fuel Lube (or EZ Turn). We have both at work, and all the mechanics prefer Tite Seal...that's the reason I'm using it. Not saying it's better or worse, just that it's what we use in the shop.bullojm1 wrote:]From everything I have read on the instructions and forums tells you to use Fuel Lube on fuel NPT fittings and permatex sealant on all non-fuel (oil, etc..) fittings. Fuel lube never cures - it stays in the "I am gonna get on your clothes one way or another" form. According to the ACS website on EZ-Turn (the Fuel Lube replacement) "EZ Turn is also extremely efficient as a gasket paste & anti- seize agent. EZ Turn will not gum, crack or dry out."
The permatex does end up drying and becoming harder, but it never really dries. Superior used permatex on all my engine oil and primer/manifold pressure fittings. So I continued to do so.
All I know is one of the more famous RV-7 builders out there used Fuel Lube on all of his fuel fittings and I haven't heard him complain about a leak in 1700+ hours. That's good enough for me!

Sorry bud! I didn't mean to imply that that was your final install, just an example of how it sits on the bolts as it comes from Van's...cnpeters wrote:It's just sitting there for the pic. I'll probably find a piece of PVC pipe or something else the same diameter and make a spacer flush to the edge of the valve plate for better aesthetics. I will use JB Weld/epoxy, and may cover with the interior leather/pleather that I will use for the AFP box and rest of valve assembly cover.
Another option would be use small machine screws and secure to the aluminum housing using bushing spacers to hold up enough to clear those bolt heads.


- TomNativeNewYorker
- Class D
- Posts: 439
- Joined: Tue Mar 21, 2006 9:19 pm
- Location: KSAV
I dont use any type of dope/sealant/teflon tape on threads at all. It is prohibited, because they do not want anything introduced to the hydraulic/pneumatic/fuel systems that would cause contamination, especially the hydraulic systems.
Our nitrogen precharge for the hydraulic resevoirs is 100 psi, and nitrogen preloads on the hydraulic systems accumulators is 2000 psi and increases to 3000 psi once engines spin up and hydraulic pumps kick in. emergency landing gear blowdown gets nitrogen to 3000 psi, and both hydraulic systems 3000 psi.
everything(even the 100psi system) has to stay locked down tight and we have to make sure all jam nuts and "B" nuts are tight making sure nothing leaks.
Our nitrogen precharge for the hydraulic resevoirs is 100 psi, and nitrogen preloads on the hydraulic systems accumulators is 2000 psi and increases to 3000 psi once engines spin up and hydraulic pumps kick in. emergency landing gear blowdown gets nitrogen to 3000 psi, and both hydraulic systems 3000 psi.
everything(even the 100psi system) has to stay locked down tight and we have to make sure all jam nuts and "B" nuts are tight making sure nothing leaks.
Hey Chad,
I finally got my fuel lever indicator plate and it is just like yours without a relief cut on the back. It is too thin for that anyway.
Not at all like the pic that was posted here:
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/s ... aerogizmos
I finally got my fuel lever indicator plate and it is just like yours without a relief cut on the back. It is too thin for that anyway.
Not at all like the pic that was posted here:
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/s ... aerogizmos
Brantel (Brian Chesteen),
RV12-IS, #121606, N912BC - Building Now!
RV10, #41942, N????? - Project Sold
RV-7/TU, #72823, N159SB - SOLD
RV12-IS, #121606, N912BC - Building Now!
RV10, #41942, N????? - Project Sold
RV-7/TU, #72823, N159SB - SOLD