Crimpers

tshort · Post by **tshort** » Wed Aug 23, 2006 4:54 am

What are you guys using as a crimper?
I need to crimp the connectors onto the wires for the cap sender plates and am not sure what tool to get.
SteinAir.com has a big selection ... any thoughts?

Thomas

captain_john · Post by **captain_john** » Wed Aug 23, 2006 6:30 am

I got the Stein compression ones too. They are good.

I also soldered the connection. Try to keep the solder inside the crimped portion of the wire. Additional wicking down the wire could lead to a broken connection down the road due to vibration.

CJ

tshort · Post by **tshort** » Wed Aug 23, 2006 6:56 am

So you got the ones that have different inserts for different crimps?

T.

captain_john · Post by **captain_john** » Wed Aug 23, 2006 9:18 am

Yup...

The colors designate the crimp size with respect to wire gauge.

The crimp TECHNICALLY should be all you need, but the solder is a "belt and suspenders" approach. It is just the way I do stuff.

The combination of the two makes me feel better. The next time the connections will be visible should be a long time from now, so I want a good connection.

CJ

tshort · Post by **tshort** » Wed Aug 23, 2006 9:34 am

captain_john wrote: a "belt and suspenders" approach. It is just the way I do stuff.

The combination of the two makes me feel better.

CJ

I bet chicks dig that!!

Thomas

captain_john · Post by **captain_john** » Wed Aug 23, 2006 10:17 am

...in Maine, they do!!!

CJ

prestwich · Post by **prestwich** » Wed Aug 23, 2006 10:38 am

CJ, I don't want to be disagreeable, but I'm going to disagree with you on this one. I have some experience with wire harnessing, having managed an electronic assembly job shop for the last 22 years. I know you're an electrician, but in the electronics field, we generally advise against soldering a crimp connection, for the brittleness reason you mentioned. The major advantage to stranded wire, other than increased current carrying capability, is flexibility. Adding rigidity at a termination point subject to vibration is the last thing I'd want to do.

I have had in the past, and do have now, customers who insist on the dual approach, against my advice. And they get what they want, because after all, I wouldn't be in business if they didn't. But I wouldn't do it myself. A properly crimped crimp connection is robust and reliable, and adding solder to it is risky and unnecessary. And I think it would be difficult for a novice to keep the solder inside the barrel of the connector as you suggest.

captain_john · Post by **captain_john** » Wed Aug 23, 2006 10:54 am

P-wich...

It would be difficult, no doubt. Not impossible, though. With experience... ya know.

I am still gonna do it, but I am glad you underscored it for everyone here!

CJ

ptrotter · Post by **ptrotter** » Thu Aug 24, 2006 10:24 am

Hey CJ,

Sorry, but I have to go with Prestwich on this one. I once thought taht soldering as well would be a good thing, but after seeing soldered connections fail too often, I changed my position. Soldering just makes the connection too brittle, which is a very bad thing in an environment with a lot of vibration.

captain_john · Post by **captain_john** » Thu Aug 24, 2006 10:02 pm

I am betting most of my electrical system on it, so we will find out whether it is truly that bad or not!

On all my vehicles, ground and water based, I do it that way and have had great success, sooooo..

We shall see...

CJ

jim_geo · Post by **jim_geo** » Thu Aug 24, 2006 11:18 pm

Seems to me that if you flow the solder in from the tip of the wire and keep the solder hot and pretty discreet you'd have the best of both worlds.