I finally figured out the 2-10 DPDT switch, now I have two poles and one throw to figure out. I have the diagram from AeroE Bob's book, but I don't get it...



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Chad,
More info... A 2-3 is easy, it is just two double throw switches ganged together.
If you figured out a 2-10, a 2-10 should be super easy.
What are you wanting the switch to do and we can shed some light on the matter...
Brantel
RV-7/TU, #72823, N159SB Reserved
Misc. Finishing, FWF, Wiring and Panel Work...
rivetbangers.com - Discussion topic http://www.rivetbangers.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=31420#31420
I'm just using what I have on hand...one 2-3 and a SPST are what I have left. Figured I'd use the 2-3 for the nav lights, and the SPST for the strobes.bullojm1 wrote:Oh that's easy. You really only need a single pole, single throw switch. But for the sake of simplicity, with your 2-3 switch, wire the #2 terminal to your feed bus (i.e. power input), and the #1 terminal to all three wires going to all 3 lights. Or run one fatter wire to right behind your center section and connect all three lights together to the feed wire there.
Confused yet?
dont feel bad, I hate electrical. I will probably never get an airframes/powerplants license because of it. at least with hydraulic fluid, you can see it leaking. it looks kind of like a raspberry beer,cjensen wrote:
I hate switches...
The tail light has to be on at night with the strobes...AIM says so.JOHN TIPTON wrote:Is there any milage in wireing the tail light so it goes off when the tail strobe is on (easily done on a 2-10 I think) - I'm thinking on the lines of excessive heat (in a Whelen) tail/trobe light, with both operating
John (Rv9a-wings)
JOHN TIPTON wrote:Is there any milage in wireing the tail light so it goes off when the tail strobe is on (easily done on a 2-10 I think) - I'm thinking on the lines of excessive heat (in a Whelen) tail/trobe light, with both operating
John (Rv9a-wings)