General questions (Newbie)

[Nathalie]

Some really dumb questions.

Why are the tools suggested always Air Powered and not Electric?

When dimpling, is it always on the side of the rivet entry, ie the head. I've seen on some sites people actually suggesting dimpling the 'reversed' site of the skin?

Is dimpling for thinner items and countersinking for thicker stock?

How many females have actually built/fly their own RVs?

Nathalie

[captain_john]

Some really dumb questions.

No dumb questions





Why are the tools suggested always Air Powered and not Electric?

Higher RPM's and no wires to short out on precious aluminum




When dimpling, is it always on the side of the rivet entry, ie the head. I've seen on some sites people actually suggesting dimpling the 'reversed' site of the skin?

...because the other side is concealed within the assembly and not exposed to the relative wind and what you saw was a "new style" rudder trailing edge. Probably the only occasion you have to dimple the shop head side of the assembly.




Is dimpling for thinner items and countersinking for thicker stock?

Precisely.


How many females have actually built/fly their own RVs?

All of them! Sorry, I just HAD TA!

Nathalie, I am sure there are some women builders. It seems that I visited a site of a female builder not long ago but cannot recall it. Check the www links from Van's. I think I saw it there. Check in here if you have any questions. I hope you decide to build, it is a new challenge every day!

CJ

[nightflyer]

Nathalie, the only dumb question is the one that doesn't get asked. To take your questions in turn:

The use of air tools grew out of the production environment, where dozens of drill motors, rivet guns, ect. may be in use at the same time. It's cheaper to use an electric motor or diesel engine to pressurize a BIG air tank (or multiple tanks) and run the tools off that, than to power all those little electric motors. Air tools tend to run cooler and with proper care will last a long time. That being said, I do tend to use my cordless electric drill quite a bit.

Dimpling is done almost exclusively on the head side because that's the surface you want flush, for one of two reasons: because it's the "air passage" surface OR because something has to be installed on top of the rivet.

Dimpling is reserved for material that is too thin to allow countersinking. The danger of countersinking is that the countersink will go completely through the material, leaving no cylindrical part of the hole; this is the dread "knife edge" condition, which has some negative fatigue consequences. Remember that the larger the rivet, the deeper the countersink must be to ensure head flushness, which in turn would require thicker material. So, with the very thin materials used in RVs, dimpling is almost universal.

Can't comment on the last question, other than to say I hope the number is growing!

Happy building!

[Spike]

You guys forgot the main reason we use air tools. They are cool!!

[RV6junkie]

Air tools are lighter and last a lot longer (and as Spike has suggested, they are cool) than tools with motors.

"I've seen on some sites people actually suggesting dimpling the 'reversed' site of the skin?"

You may have confused this with back-riveting. where the bucking bar (or plate) is held on the factory side of the rivet and the rivet gun is held on the shop side of the rivet.

I don't know how many females have built their own RV's, but I can tell you that my RV would not have been finished without my wifes help. She drove most of the rivets in my wings and fuselage (the fun job) while I bucked 'em.

[Nathalie]

Thanks a lot for explaining things folks.

A few more very intelligent questions?

Is there a 'shelf life' to the wash primer as supplied by Vans on the QB kits. So if I take say 3-4 years to build will it still take other primer/paint applications after that period of time?

Can't yet make up my mind!!! (don't say anything)!!! If I go for the 8a to start off with and gain some flight time, is it possible to retro back to an RV8 tail dragger configuration once and if my piloting skills allow?

Also, with regard to the QB wings, I've read several remarks about how 'tricky' it is to fit landing lights/Nav lights etc Is it that tough?

Thanks

Nathalie

[spikescopilot]

How many females have actually built/fly their own RVs?

Hey Nathalie....

I'm not a pilot, but I'm helping Spike build his!

Welcome to the site!!

--patti (Spike's wife)

[Doakes]

I know of one female builder. She may no longer be building as I answered an ad for RV 9 tail kit- she was located in Middle Texas as I recall. I however did not purchase as it was just to far for me to travel.
Dave

[Snap]

here is a site that is of an RV being built by a Female. Look to be good work and se has a shop for the building. (I want one of them)

http://www.rv7.us/a_home.htm

And as everyone has said..........there are no dumb questions, just dumb answers!

[RV6junkie]

Is there a 'shelf life' to the wash primer as supplied by Vans on the QB kits. So if I take say 3-4 years to build will it still take other primer/paint applications after that period of time?

There should not be any shelf life issues with the primer.

Can't yet make up my mind!!! (don't say anything)!!! If I go for the 8a to start off with and gain some flight time, is it possible to retro back to an RV8 tail dragger configuration once and if my piloting skills allow?

You need to ask yourself why would you choose one configuration over another.

Do you intend to fly into unimproved or rough landing areas? Maybe you just like flying tail-draggers or like the look of them. Then the –8 is the correct choice, regardless of your current skills.

If you plan on flying only at airports with paved strips or well-groomed grass strips, the –8A will serve you well.

I chose a tail dragger 6 because my friends pressured me into it. Not a good reason, but a reason nonetheless. The tail draggers aren’t easier to build, but there are fewer hassles…er…so I guess they are easier to build.

In any event, try to make your choice before you order the wing kit. It will save you time and money in the long run.

Also, with regard to the QB wings, I've read several remarks about how 'tricky' it is to fit landing lights/Nav lights etc Is it that tough?

I'm about 99.375% sure that I installed my lights after the wings were complete, but still in the jig. I think that's the easiest way.

[Guest]

Always dimple when possible because it makes the joint stronger. Directly from Van himself! The dimple always needs to be done so that the flush head rivet can end up flush. When using the Avery tool or other dimpling methods, it is really the builders choice as long as the dimple goes the right way! The male die can put small scratches in the skin especially on the Avery tool. However once the male die is in the hole you know it will be in the right place. I have tried having the male die on the top of the Avery tool and the female die on the bottom but it is real easy to make an extra hole with the male die that way. Been there done that!

Not being an RV-8 builder I can't speak with authority but them. However it is real difficult if not impossible to switch from nose wheel to tail wheel on an RV-6 or 6A! For that to be possible you would need to move the main gear about two feet. You would need a different engine mount or at least you would probly need to close the hole in the lower cowl. The tail cone would need some modification and personally I would just as soon build another whole airplane!

[Heli-Wrench]

I know of a female builder in Southern Alberta. I think she was tired of sitting in the back seat of her husbands RV4, so she built her own RV9A. Did a very nice job, with a fantastic paint job.

Oh ya, Air tools are much cooler than electric. End of Story.