Luxeon Stars for nav lights

Post by **bullojm1** » Thu Nov 15, 2007 10:43 am

Brian-

Check out http://strobeguy.safeshopper.com/ for some cheap strobe power supplies and bulbs. I am planning on going with the EPS-40X ( http://strobeguy.safeshopper.com/13/cat13.htm?248 ) supply, which for 95 bucks gives me 4 outputs. Toss in a couple of flash tubes ( http://strobeguy.safeshopper.com/32/2191.htm?248 ) for $18 a pop and the combo tail light/strobe from Van's for about $150 and for less than 300 bucks you have a complete strobe system!

dons · Post by **dons** » Thu Nov 15, 2007 2:27 pm

I haven't looked into strobes at all yet, is it normal to run the high voltage from a single supply and not have to have one close to each actual flash tube ?

Post by **bullojm1** » Thu Nov 15, 2007 3:30 pm

Don,

I have seen people do it both ways. As with everything, there are advantages and disadvantages to each method. If you are putting the strobes in the wingtips, then you will need a tail strobe as well (at least in the US you do). So, that's 3 power supplies you will need if going with individual packs. I am going with one power supply and running thick, heavy strobe cable to each wingtip and to the tail. It's cheaper and probably about the same weight as 3 power supplies.

dons · Post by **dons** » Thu Nov 15, 2007 4:40 pm

Neat, nice to know it can be done both ways, thanks.

briand · Post by **briand** » Thu Nov 15, 2007 4:48 pm

bullojm1 wrote:Brian-
and the combo tail light/strobe from Van's for about $150 and for less than 300 bucks you have a complete strobe system!

Does the Vans tail light/strobe require anything or is it good to go out of the box? A flash tube power supply?

Post by **bullojm1** » Thu Nov 15, 2007 4:57 pm

briand wrote: Does the Vans tail light/strobe require anything or is it good to go out of the box? A flash tube power supply?

It requires a strobe power supply.

RV7Factory · Post by **RV7Factory** » Thu Nov 15, 2007 8:43 pm

Speed3Guy wrote:I rolled my own version of Jeff Bordelon's lights. I did pick his brain before doing it, so a lot of the credit goes to him.

Great stuff Guy! I think you have inspired me to roll my own.

briand · Post by **briand** » Thu Nov 15, 2007 10:17 pm

Is this the correct epoxy?

ARCTIC ALUMINA HIGH PERFORMANCE THERMAL COMPOUND 1.75G

http://www.svc.com/aa-14g.html

Or any one of these?:

http://www.svc.com/thermal-compound.html

Speed3Guy · Post by **Speed3Guy** » Thu Nov 15, 2007 10:25 pm

briand wrote:Is this the correct epoxy?

ARCTIC ALUMINA HIGH PERFORMANCE THERMAL COMPOUND 1.75G

http://www.svc.com/aa-175g.html

Or any one of these?:

http://www.svc.com/thermal-compound.html

The first one is what I used. You want something with high thermal conductivity and low electrical conductivity.

Speed3Guy · Post by **Speed3Guy** » Thu Nov 15, 2007 10:38 pm

OK, I gathered some old photos and took some new ones. I'm not going to display them all here because I'm lazy. Go to my Smugmug account and you can look to your heart's content. Here's the link: http://speed3guy.smugmug.com/gallery/2353519#P-2-15 There are photos of the lights on pages 2 & 3 of that gallery.

Note: The LEDs are not attached to the acrylic. I just used the holes in the acrylic to make sure the LEDs were in the right place before the adhesive cured.

This is a lot of work. I enjoyed it, but Jeff's are a really good deal and unless you're really into this kind of stuff just buy them from him. I think that in execution, mine are quite a bit different from his, but the original intellectual property is his. Please don't disseminate this information further without crediting Jeff Bordelon and / or getting his approval.

RV7Factory · Post by **RV7Factory** » Tue Dec 04, 2007 7:59 pm

Speed3Guy wrote:
briand wrote:Is this the correct epoxy?

ARCTIC ALUMINA HIGH PERFORMANCE THERMAL COMPOUND 1.75G

http://www.svc.com/aa-175g.html

Or any one of these?:

http://www.svc.com/thermal-compound.html
The first one is what I used. You want something with high thermal conductivity and low electrical conductivity.

Guy,

I just want to clarify something... you say you used the first one, but that is a link to the Arctic Alumina Thermal Compound. If I am not mistaken, you used Arctic Alumina Thermal Adhesive, not compound. Here... http://www.arcticsilver.com/arctic_alum ... hesive.htm

Am I correct? Thanks!

Speed3Guy · Post by **Speed3Guy** » Wed Dec 05, 2007 11:09 am

RV7Factory wrote:
Speed3Guy wrote:
briand wrote:Is this the correct epoxy?

ARCTIC ALUMINA HIGH PERFORMANCE THERMAL COMPOUND 1.75G

http://www.svc.com/aa-175g.html

Or any one of these?:

http://www.svc.com/thermal-compound.html
The first one is what I used. You want something with high thermal conductivity and low electrical conductivity.
Guy,

I just want to clarify something... you say you used the first one, but that is a link to the Arctic Alumina Thermal Compound. If I am not mistaken, you used Arctic Alumina Thermal Adhesive, not compound. Here... http://www.arcticsilver.com/arctic_alum ... hesive.htm

Am I correct? Thanks!

I used the Thermal Adhesive. Sorry for the confusion.

G

Brantel · Post by **Brantel** » Wed Dec 05, 2007 11:26 am

I am using 4-40 stainless screws threaded into the backplate. The manufacturer has suggested that this offers the best thermal transfer when used with a very thin film of the thermal grease.

It was very easy to drill and tap the plate.

RV7Factory · Post by **RV7Factory** » Wed Dec 05, 2007 12:55 pm

Guy, thanks for confirming!

Brantel... 4-40 screws to attach what... the LEDs?

All this talk of thermal compound gave me an idea... how about securing a CPU heat sink to the back of the backplate? Something like this. Remove the fan, or leave it on, either way might work. Just an idea.

Post by **bullojm1** » Wed Dec 05, 2007 1:11 pm

RV7Factory wrote: CPU heat sink to the back of the backplate? Something like this. Remove the fan, or leave it on, either way might work. Just an idea.

Brad-

I had the same idea...cheap CPU heatsink with FAN. For my wingtip's, I am cramming in two 2" Halogen lights as well as 3 Luxeon Rebels and a strobe. I need all the cooling help I can get!

RV7Factory · Post by **RV7Factory** » Wed Dec 05, 2007 1:21 pm

bullojm1 wrote: Brad-

I had the same idea...cheap CPU heatsink with FAN. For my wingtip's, I am cramming in two 2" Halogen lights as well as 3 Luxeon Rebels and a strobe. I need all the cooling help I can get!

With all that in one tip you might consider using a liquid cooled heatsink.

Brantel · Post by **Brantel** » Wed Dec 05, 2007 1:31 pm

RV7Factory wrote:Guy, thanks for confirming!

Brantel... 4-40 screws to attach what... the LEDs?

All this talk of thermal compound gave me an idea... how about securing a CPU heat sink to the back of the backplate? Something like this. Remove the fan, or leave it on, either way might work. Just an idea.

Yes the LED's to the backplate. Could also be used to attach the heat sink.

Sorry for the crappy pic. It is off my crappy cell phone...

I am also planning to use a CPU heat sink because they are cheap and work really well.

To get good heat transfer, a very thin film of the thermal grease is all that is required. The other stuff like thermal tape, thermal epoxy ect. works but has low heat transfer ability compaired to direct contact with a thin layer of thermal grease to fill the microscopic voids between the two metals.

We have to be carefull that we don't build too much weight into these things...

RV7Factory · Post by **RV7Factory** » Wed Dec 05, 2007 1:38 pm

Brantel wrote:Yes the LED's to the backplate.

OK, I think I get it now. In the little notches of the K2s.

Brantel · Post by **Brantel** » Wed Dec 05, 2007 1:39 pm

Posted a pic above to give you a visual...

Post by **bullojm1** » Wed Dec 05, 2007 2:43 pm

Hey Brantel (and/or others)-

Any thought about under the right conditions the insulation on the interconnecting wires between the luxeon stars melting?