Bushing in Aileron Bellcrank

Lorin Dueck · Post by **Lorin Dueck** » Mon Mar 17, 2008 9:58 pm

Hi all -
I would appreciate a little help / advice here.

For the 9A aileron bellcrank installation - the directions say to ream the WD-421 bushing to accept the AN 4 bolt.
My question is - should I spend the extra $$ and buy a .250 reamer - or just drill it out with a 1/4" bit in my drill press??
What did you do - and how did it work??
Recall that the bellcrank assembly rotates around the bushing - not the bolt....
Thanks, Lorin D

cjensen · Post by **cjensen** » Mon Mar 17, 2008 10:12 pm

I have a .250 reamer now, but didn't at the time. The 1/4" bit worked just fine for me. However, I would say go ahead and buy the .250 reamer. You'll need it in the future several times.

That bushing is probably easier to ream straight than drill straight.

My advise: Get the reamer.

Post by **bullojm1** » Tue Mar 18, 2008 9:00 am

I'd say get a reamer also. I use them all the time. I have them for #40, #30, #19, #12, 1/4" (Aileron Bushing), 5/16" (Rear wing spar) and 3/8" (engine mount). Check out mscdirect.com - they ship quickly and have great prices.

jim_geo · Post by **jim_geo** » Tue Mar 18, 2008 1:12 pm

I used the drill method myself also. Just use lots of oil, the brass loves to seize. Although not as bad as lead.

smittysrv · Post by **smittysrv** » Tue Mar 18, 2008 1:22 pm

I used a regular drill bit on mine, along with a flowing stream of cuss words. The reamer sounds cool. Anybody got a web link to that product?

weezbad · Post by **weezbad** » Tue Mar 18, 2008 1:48 pm

i drilled mine but had to use a dump trucl load of pressure on the bushing to keep it from spinning in the holding fixture( a piece of wood with a hole drilled through it cut in half). a reamer would make this a non event.. you local machione shop should have the popular sizes...fastenal comes to mind.

Wicked Stick · Post by **Wicked Stick** » Tue Mar 18, 2008 1:51 pm

http://www.micromatic.com/draft-keg-bee ... P-080.html

I guess they even use reamers for draft beer...

Yet another use you can have it for....lol..
Seriously though, I wish I had bought the reamer at that stage in the build. I have them now in the sizes I need for the rest of the plane.
It really is the way to do it.

cjensen · Post by **cjensen** » Tue Mar 18, 2008 1:56 pm

I use a #40 reamer on all pre-punched holes now, rather than the bit. Makes a really smooth, straight hole!

Lorin Dueck · Post by **Lorin Dueck** » Tue Mar 18, 2008 2:01 pm

Great guys!!
Looks likeI get to buy a new bunch of tools

Thx, Lorin D

Brantel · Post by **Brantel** » Tue Mar 18, 2008 2:59 pm

Used the take a piece of 2x4 drill a hole in it and split it with a band saw to about 1" past the hole method. Then clamped the split end with a c-clamp. This held the bushing just fine. I used the 1/4" drill bit and that worked just fine. I just kept working the bit up and down to clear out the powder.

TomNativeNewYorker · Post by **TomNativeNewYorker** » Tue Mar 18, 2008 5:41 pm

A piloted reamer would even be better.

tshort · Post by **tshort** » Wed Mar 19, 2008 1:34 am

Brantel wrote:Used the take a piece of 2x4 drill a hole in it and split it with a band saw to about 1" past the hole method. Then clamped the split end with a c-clamp. This held the bushing just fine. I used the 1/4" drill bit and that worked just fine. I just kept working the bit up and down to clear out the powder.

THAT is a good idea. I ordered two extra bushings with my last order from Van's because I wasn't happy with how the first turned out (irregularities on the inside and overall poor fit of the bolt). I'm not sure why the first one was bad because I did it with a drill press and a reamer, but...
That seems like a great way to hold it steady and vertical...

Thomas

RV7Factory · Post by **RV7Factory** » Wed Mar 19, 2008 4:45 pm

Yup, it works well...

More pics here.

Lorin Dueck · Post by **Lorin Dueck** » Tue Apr 15, 2008 9:34 pm

Well,

I bought several reamers from MSC Direct (Thanks for the reference Mike!).. clamped the parts using the "Brantel method" (great suggestion!)... and completed the setup by following Brads steps (simple & accurate!!).
After adjusting the drill press to the slowest speed - and a using a little boelube... it was a no-brainer. 30 minutes and I was done with both bushings. The fit came out perfect.
I can't believe I was sweating tihs one!!

Thanks to all!!

For those of you who have not gotten here yet - BUY THE REAMERS!!!

Lorin D.
9A Wings
N194LD reserved

cjensen · Post by **cjensen** » Tue Apr 15, 2008 10:09 pm

Good deal Lorin! Glad it worked out great! The reamers are really worth having around.

Brantel · Post by **Brantel** » Wed Apr 16, 2008 7:21 am

Not my method, I think I stole it from Brad so it is the "Brad" method.

Glad it worked out though!

Lorin Dueck wrote:Well,

I bought several reamers from MSC Direct (Thanks for the reference Mike!).. clamped the parts using the "Brantel method" (great suggestion!)... and completed the setup by following Brads steps (simple & accurate!!).
After adjusting the drill press to the slowest speed - and a using a little boelube... it was a no-brainer. 30 minutes and I was done with both bushings. The fit came out perfect.
I can't believe I was sweating tihs one!!

Thanks to all!!

For those of you who have not gotten here yet - BUY THE REAMERS!!!

Lorin D.
9A Wings
N194LD reserved

RV7Factory · Post by **RV7Factory** » Fri Apr 18, 2008 4:21 pm

Brantel wrote:Not my method, I think I stole it from Brad so it is the "Brad" method.

Yes, and I want royalties!!!

weezbad · Post by **weezbad** » Sat Apr 19, 2008 6:19 am

RV7Factory wrote: Yes, and I want royalties!!!

oh, i see how its gonna be, you guys have put me on the ignore list

or dont want to share any of the moneywith me

weezbad wrote:i drilled mine but had to use a dump truck load of pressure on the bushing to keep it from spinning in the holding fixture( a piece of wood with a hole drilled through it cut in half). a reamer would make this a non event.. you local machine shop should have the popular sizes...fastenal comes to mind.

i used a vise instead of clamps.
i did however drill the hole parallel to the split in the wood. after reading "brantels method i see he mentioned not cutting the block completely in half. which IMHO would help even more?

i really feel sorry for the people trying to build a plane and dont have internet access. there is so much to be gained from the net its ridiculous.

BSwayze · Post by **BSwayze** » Sat Apr 19, 2008 7:20 am

I'd say get a reamer also. I use them all the time. I have them for #40, #30, #19, #12, 1/4" (Aileron Bushing), 5/16" (Rear wing spar) and 3/8" (engine mount). Check out mscdirect.com - they ship quickly and have great prices.

Mike,

Thanks for the link and the tip! I ordered all the reamers you suggested, except for the #30 and #40 (already had those). Great prices, and they arrived here in two days. I'll be using the .250 soon for my aileron bushings!

Bruce

Brantel · Post by **Brantel** » Sat Apr 19, 2008 5:32 pm

Ok, we are going to have to call it the "bradweezbad" method. Or the "weezbadbrad" method.

You guys can fight over who's name comes first.

weezbad wrote:
RV7Factory wrote: Yes, and I want royalties!!!
oh, i see how its gonna be, you guys have put me on the ignore list or dont want to share any of the moneywith me
weezbad wrote:i drilled mine but had to use a dump truck load of pressure on the bushing to keep it from spinning in the holding fixture( a piece of wood with a hole drilled through it cut in half). a reamer would make this a non event.. you local machine shop should have the popular sizes...fastenal comes to mind.
i used a vise instead of clamps.
i did however drill the hole parallel to the split in the wood. after reading "brantels method i see he mentioned not cutting the block completely in half. which IMHO would help even more?
i really feel sorry for the people trying to build a plane and dont have internet access. there is so much to be gained from the net its ridiculous.