Icom A210 wiring, Molex connector

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cjensen
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Post by cjensen »

Yeah...I've used it sparingly, and only used Bob's pigtail method. In this case, being part of a harness that moves in unison, it should be okay, but I'm waiting for Stein's blessing still...
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Post by svanarts »

I started to make a blanket statement on solder but I remembered that the antenna connection is soldered on so, yeah, you gots to use it sometimes.
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cjensen
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Post by cjensen »

Okay...the soldered power pin...I talked to Stein yesterday about this, and he told me that if it's a clean install, it would hold. However, how long it will hold is unknown. Could be 20 hours, could be 2,000 hours...the point was, if it's done the way it's supposed to be done (one wire per pin), it will last for as long as it's designed to last. I don't know how long that is, but it only took 15 minutes to fix this, and it's the proper way to do it.

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Womack2005
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Post by Womack2005 »

I am prohibited from using solder joints ANYWHERE except in enclosed units: like inside a terminal box or inside a connector (video and RF coax terminations). The key is the solder joint must not be able to move and work harder.
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Post by RVNewsletter »

So if you can't use solder, what's the best way to connect two wires into one as the plans calls for in this case?
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cjensen
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Post by cjensen »

Remember...Will works for Gulfstream, and is restricted to repair station rules. We have the same rules in our maintenance shop, and avionics shop.

My feeling on this, is that if it's in the Aero Electric Bob book, it's fine. The pigtail splice is fine between wires, but not on the connector pin.

:)
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Post by RVNewsletter »

I was leafing throgh PS Engineering's neat Powerpoint on making wiring harnesses and they bring up Raychem Solder Sleeves, which I'd never heard of before. Is anyone using these? Are they a better alternative to the methods in AeroElectric Connection. They sure look to be expensive.
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Post by cjensen »

I think those are too cost prohibitive for most. An alternative to the solder sleeve is Dsub pins and sockets with heat shrink. I changed ALL of my solder splices to pins and sockets, except where I was splitting one wire to two. Still more expensive than pigtail solder splices, but not as much as the solder sleeves.
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Womack2005
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Post by Womack2005 »

Solder sleeves rock. But yes, they are expensive. They are only used to ground or tie together shield wires though - not single conductors.

If you have two wires to splice together, use a crimp splice. All terminations should be crimps. Crimp contacts or crimp splices.

I have docs/specs I can send on the enviromental and butt splics (crimp) if anyone is intereted. I use Raychem and they are......well, not free :mrgreen:
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Wire up GPS, flip flop, and CH select too!

Post by Speed3Guy »

While your wiring--some things to consider.

I wired the ch-select pin, to one of my stick buttons hoping it did something cool. It does!!!! :mrgreen:

A stick mounted ch select button brings up the last memory bank you used and then cycles through the frequencies in that bank. I've got all of the local frequencies programed into a memory bank on my radio. So around my home airport, ch select cycles through all of the frequencies in that memory bank on the standby side. A quick touch of the stick mounted flip-flop transfers it to active. Another press or two of ch select brings the next required frequency to standby. All without ever touching the radio.

For cross country, I hit RCL on the radio once and turn the outer dial to the GPS memory bank. For the rest of the trip, I can press the stick mounted CH select button to cycle through clearly labeled frequencies for the next airport on my gps flight plan.

Obviously you have to have serial data from the gps connected for the last set of features. My data is coming from a Garmin 496.
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Post by Spike »

That is pretty slick!
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Post by RVNewsletter »

Womack2005 wrote:Solder sleeves rock. But yes, they are expensive. They are only used to ground or tie together shield wires though - not single conductors.
I might've interpreted this wrong -- cross back and forth between here and the identical thread on VAF is a pita -- but didn't Stein recommend solder sleeves in his preferred configuration? So they shouldn't be used in this way?
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Womack2005
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Post by Womack2005 »

Sorry it took me so long to get back on this. Solder Sleeves are designed to terminate shields only. Not the main conductor.
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Post by bullojm1 »

Is there any reason why you can't have all of the ground/power wires go into one end of a Butt-Splice connector, with a single wire going to the fuse block/ground block?

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Womack2005
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Post by Womack2005 »

That works. Except:

Make sure you use the correct SIZE splice. Remember, butt splices are sized by circular mils, NOT gauge.

Easy right? :mrgreen:
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Post by bullojm1 »

Womack2005 wrote: Make sure you use the correct SIZE splice. Remember, butt splices are sized by circular mils, NOT gauge.
Sounds like trial and error to me! That's my kind of engineering! Pull test is the ultimate test.
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Post by svanarts »

At our last EAA meeting we had a guy from United's maintenance shop come over a do a presentation on crimping. It was very informative. I've always been a fan of crimping and now I know why. But I wish I had seen that presentation first. There are all kinds of tricks you can do to get splices to work right. Like if you don't have a butt connector that fits both sides of the wire precisely, you can use an extra piece of wire looped right back around into the connector to take up space if the wire is too small. He said the same thing I think Will is saying. It's all about that circular mill.

I bet Will can dig up a snazzy chart to explain it. I've lost mine.
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Post by Womack2005 »

Will
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Womack2005
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Post by Womack2005 »

that was supposed to be table 6 dash 8
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svanarts
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Post by svanarts »

Haven't watched it yet but speaking of crimping...

http://www.eaa.org/video/homebuilders.h ... 4725747001
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