Proseal on stiffeners

bmurrish · Post by **bmurrish** » Sat Mar 12, 2005 8:14 pm

Just curious what people are using to dip the tips of their rudder stiffeners with. The book calls out for Proseal or non-corrosive rtv. How much coverage do you get out of the 3.5 oz tube. Is it enough to do both rudder and elevator stiffeners? Hate to buy Proseal just to waste the leftover if I don't get to my tanks within the 4 month shelf life. Any suggestions? Also, any good sources to buy from.

Post by **Spike** » Sat Mar 12, 2005 8:57 pm

Geez Jim, slow down dude. Your making me look bad. Yipes. Good question though, Im about to that point also. Proseal, I am already looking forward to it ... NOT.

captain_john · Post by **captain_john** » Sat Mar 12, 2005 9:19 pm

I used RTV, but you should use Pro-seal... it will SLOW YOU DOWN!!!

CJ

aerial · Post by **aerial** » Sat Mar 12, 2005 10:23 pm

A two time RV builder(RV-4, RV-6) up in this neck of the woods uses RTV. Oakley is the name. He just rebuilt another RV-4 rudder for someone because it cracked. From what I gathered he recommned putting a line of RTV in the trailing edge to prevent cracking.

bmurrish · Post by **bmurrish** » Sun Mar 13, 2005 12:39 am

I see RTV is the cheapest and quickest way to go. What brand and type is the best? Don't worry about me passing you up. I imagine I am going to have a nice waiting period waiting for my wings. I plan to order this weekend. Guess it will give me time to build the jig.

ptrotter · Post by **ptrotter** » Sun Mar 13, 2005 1:24 am

Just go with RTV. It is cheap and you can get it at any auto supply store. I think a tube will do both the rudder and elevators. Make sure it is non-corrosive. It will probably say "safe for sensors" on the tube. You just need a small blob on the end of each stiffener.

Post by **Spike** » Sun Mar 13, 2005 10:54 am

Cant speak on the other models, but I believe with the RV-9's people are using RTV/Proseal not for the cracking issue, but to hold the trailing edge wedge & skins together while riveting to ensure a true edge.

-- Spike

bmurrish · Post by **bmurrish** » Wed Mar 16, 2005 12:18 am

OK, this rtv/proseal deal has got me thinking. I bent the trailing edge a little, but I am waiting to get a dowl tomorrow before I bend it all the way. From what I can see, the stiffeners will not be touching together when finished. What do you gain by putting a dab on the trailing edge of the stiffeners?

mustang · Post by **mustang** » Wed Mar 16, 2005 1:31 am

Bill,
You put a fairly big wad on the stiffeners where they get close to each other at the trailing edge. You want to bridge the gap between the flanges of the opposing stiffeners. This acts as a small riblet in this area which stops the trailing edge from oilcanning or vibrating in and out slightly which eventually can create cracking around the trailing edge rivet of some of the stiffeners. You do each set of stiffeners in this manner which stabilizes/solidifies the trailing edge and dampens vibrations in this area.

I forgot to do my rudder, but no big deal. I remembered to do the elevators and feeling along the different trailing edges, there is a difference in firmness between the rudder and the elevators. I think it is a good thing to do, but it is not mandatory if you forget. I called Van's, very concerned when I did not do my rudder but they said "Not to worry"
Cheers, Pete

bmurrish · Post by **bmurrish** » Wed Mar 16, 2005 7:42 pm

I picked up a tube of contact adhesive & sealant made by GOOP. The label says it is clear/waterproof/paintable/flexable and is supposed to work on aluminum and can also be used on battery terminals to prevent corrosion. I hope this stuff will be ok and do the trick.

captain_john · Post by **captain_john** » Wed Mar 16, 2005 9:07 pm

It will probably do the trick.

I used the specified stuff by Permatex. Three reasons why, really.

1) I HAD it.

2) I am familiar with it.

3) It is what Van specified.

Me, I would use the Permatex instead of the GOOP.

Good luck!

CJ