Cutting aluminum angle without band saw

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Mon Mar 28, 2005 11:35 pm

Hey Guys,

Well, I thought with this new fancy pants kit I wouldn't need a band saw like I did when I built my -6. Hmmm, I might be wrong about that. I've already needed a band saw a few times and I've only put 5 hours into the project.

So, is there anything other than a hacksaw that I can use to cut aluminum angle? Am I forgetting something? Is there some attachment to a drill or die gringer that I can use?

Any ideas would be helpful. I hate using a hacksaw.

thanks, grant-

ps. No room in the garage for a band saw this time around....

bmurrish · Post by **bmurrish** » Mon Mar 28, 2005 11:49 pm

Since you don't want to get a band saw you could buy a cut off wheel for your die grinder. You may also want to make a straight line jig out of wood to use to follow the line. Hopefully you have a scotchbrite wheel and a bench grinder to clean up your cut edges.

captain_john · Post by **captain_john** » Tue Mar 29, 2005 6:35 am

What angle are you cutting?

The rudder stiffeners?

I used a bandsaw on those, but others have used snips.

CJ

Post by **Spike** » Tue Mar 29, 2005 6:44 am

I tried using a cutoff wheel but didnt have much success. Its probably me but the cutoff wheel wasnt doing great things other than sucking down the air tank pretty fast.

RB Lists: General Construction wrote:

Since you don't want to get a band saw you could buy a cut off wheel for your die grinder. You may also want to make a straight line jig out of wood to use to follow the line. Hopefully you have a scotchbrite wheel and a bench grinder to clean up your cut edges.

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bmurrish · Post by **bmurrish** » Tue Mar 29, 2005 9:24 am

The thing about using the snips is that I found it tends to curl the aluminum. I would rather use a die grinder with a cut off wheel over the snips. It is hard to cut a straight line, but if you draw the line out and use something like a piece of wood as a guide you can get it done ok then finish it off with a scotchbrite wheel. I myself would either buy or borrow a bandsaw. I found that the further along in the project, the more I use it. Mine is a table top model and I set it off to the side when not in use.

g_e_young · Post by **g_e_young** » Tue Mar 29, 2005 12:46 pm

Well, I was referring to the thick angle in the HS spars that need to be tapered. Would a cut off wheel on a die grinder work for that? I don't have to be that precise because I finish everything off with the skotchbright wheel.

Maybe I'll just give in and get a band saw. And suggestions for a desktop band saw?

Thanks,

grant-

Post by **Spike** » Tue Mar 29, 2005 12:49 pm

I just picked up the Delta band saw from Lowes and have been happy with it. After using a hacksaw for the majority of my tail kit I decided that I had had enough

-- Spike

Maybe I'll just give in and get a band saw. And suggestions for a desktop band saw?

Thanks,

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jim_geo · Post by **jim_geo** » Tue Mar 29, 2005 2:09 pm

A possibility that comes to mind is a router with a carbide bit. One of the major pit falls with this idea is the amount of jigging required to hold the part. After figuring out how to hold the part making the guide for the bit to follow would be a major pain. But it could work, remembering that a router takes but a nano second to screw things up.

l & d lewis · Post by **l & d lewis** » Tue Mar 29, 2005 9:04 pm

I tried the cutoff wheel on the die grinder, dremel tool, hacksaw, file, grinding wheel you name it. I bought the band saw, you won't regret it........Larry

Don P-Factor · Post by **Don P-Factor** » Sat Apr 16, 2005 10:25 pm

Cutting aluminum with a regular carbide blade on a circular saw or mitre saw is easy. there are many different types of blades to chose from but a standard carbide blade will cut up to 3/8 angle or as thin as .020 aluminum very nicely. For thin stock turn blade in the reverse direction. Don.

captain_john · Post by **captain_john** » Sun Apr 17, 2005 7:28 am

Don, they are talking about the control surface stiffeners. These are not really pieces of "angle", but are more sheets of .025" that are bent to 90 degrees.

They need to be cut to lengths from about 8" to about 14", then a 6" sliver needs to be removed lengthwise that is tapered full width to 1/8".

If you tried that with a circ saw, you would have a pile of twisted aluminum, no fingers and a pool of blood.

You are right, though. If I were cutting 1"-3" by 1/4" thick or better aluminum angle, a circ saw, chop saw or radial arm saw would be my choice too!

We just don't have much of that in the kit. For the larger angle (3/4" x 1/8"), a hacksaw will work just fine.

Thanks for the tip!

Are you building? What is on your workbench now?

CJ

arffguy · Post by **arffguy** » Sun Apr 17, 2005 9:11 am

g_e_young wrote:Well, I was referring to the thick angle in the HS spars that need to be tapered.

grant-

Grant wasn't initially talking about the stiffeners, but yes, a circular saw (even the little ones) near any empennage size parts seems like overkill and could get very hairy indeed.

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Sun Apr 17, 2005 9:28 am

Hey, If you are still checking this thread, I used a jig saw with an aluminum cutting blade (16 tpi I think) and cut it about 1/16th" too big, used my bench sander to shape it final size. Worked great although these damn things get pretty hot on the sander, USE GLOVES!!!

Will

www.wills-rv9a.com

captain_john · Post by **captain_john** » Sun Apr 17, 2005 11:29 am

Ya, umm OK, right!

<nodding>

What Arffguy said!

A nice little jigsaw WOULD be a good substitute, with an appropriate blade.

Will, get yourself a user ID and weigh in frequently!

CJ

Don P-Factor · Post by **Don P-Factor** » Mon Apr 25, 2005 11:05 pm

John, I have a Long EZ project that fell into my workshop three weeks ago. I was looking at an RV-4 sitting stagnant but that didn't pan out. I pretty much have all the tools I need but if you're in a pinch you do what you have to. For thin stock, sandwich it between two pieces of wood to prevent distortion while using your preferred method.
P.S. I still like to check out the discussions due to the fact that the amount of brain power around here is stimulating. Take Care, Don.

Post by **Spike** » Tue Apr 26, 2005 9:14 am

Good to hear from you Don!! That brain trust goes both ways too. Stick around so that we might be able to learn from you!

-- John

mustang · Post by **mustang** » Wed Apr 27, 2005 2:03 am

If you can get a heavy duty paper cutter it will trim those stiffeners pretty well. It's really a substitute shear.

Cheers, Pete

jim_geo · Post by **jim_geo** » Wed Apr 27, 2005 2:21 am

Many towns have a heating and duct company that have a fairly well set up sheet metal shop. By doing a small amount of schmoozing and providing decent instructions as to what you need a sheet metal guy or gal could cut all of your stiffeners in a very short time on a sheet metal shear. All that is left over to do is finish them off on the Scotch Bright wheel. Perhaps getting access to a local high school metal shop is an answer also. I've actually used both of these ideas in years past with success.

Post by **Spike** » Wed Apr 27, 2005 5:51 am

Excellent idea! I had never thought of using a sheet metal shear. You guys rock!

-- John

Many towns have a heating and duct company that have a fairly well set up sheet metal shop. By doing a small amount of schmoozing and providing decent instructions as to what you need a sheet metal guy or gal could cut all of your stiffeners in a very short time on a sheet metal shear. All that is left over to do is finish them off on the Scotch Bright wheel. Perhaps getting access to a local high school metal shop is an answer also. I've actually used both of these ideas in years past with success.

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