My RV-7 G3X Installation

Post by **Spike** » Mon Oct 28, 2013 7:28 am

Looks like a good way to go. The photos make it seem like they put some thought in how the package it so that it makes your life easier. Are the cable lengths of the harnesses custom or a standard length that they offer?

John

captain_john · Post by **captain_john** » Mon Oct 28, 2013 2:57 pm

Approach ships the hardware, then you install it.

Once everything has a "home" you give them pin-to-pin dimensions.

About a week later, it all comes in a box and you plug it in!

I am noodling how these snakes will weave their way around my cabin right now!

Snakes on a plane! Hahahaha

CJ

Thermos · Post by **Thermos** » Tue Oct 29, 2013 6:21 am

captain_john wrote:Thermos, when are you coming down to help me noodle through this mess...

Whenever you want...that's why I brought you the Bundy!

Just one note...your G3X autopilot won't work without an AHRS, so if you want that auto-level blue button to be your fallback it might be best to consider that second AHRS sooner rather than later and reserve some space for it under the panel. Might also think about how you'd plumb it to your pitot-static system.

Dave

Brantel · Post by **Brantel** » Tue Oct 29, 2013 12:17 pm

Lookin good CJ!

simatos · Post by **simatos** » Tue Nov 19, 2013 12:10 am

CJ so how goes the install?? Been a little while so are you flying yet? Kidding. Sure like this Garmin set up, hope to pull the trigger and get mine ordered shortly. Keep us "posted". Cheer G

captain_john · Post by **captain_john** » Tue Nov 19, 2013 5:30 am

Gary and All,

Yup, been a while. I have been running thermocouple wire from the temp sensors and three conductor shielded stuff from all the pressure sensors. My vans order came in with my IE 300 frequency fuel level converters and those will have my attention soon.

The VP-X is on the bench along with all the parts to wire it as well.

I have been studying D-Sub connections, as I have about 100 of them to do.

It seems that the GEA 24, IBBS battery back up and the VP-X all combined, have almost 100 D-Sub pins to be made up all tolled.

Before doing so, I needed to order some shrink tube for my printer. I did so from www.probroadcastsupply.com and can I tell you how much they suck?

I got an order confirmation two weeks ago and NOTHING SHIPPED!

It seems that the order didn't meet their minimums and they couldn't bother to tell me. The order was CANCELLED and I wasn't informed! I need that tubing in order to make these pins up!!!

WHISKEY TANGO FOXTROT!!!

Oh well, I have other things to do. I ran the cables down to the tailcone and made up the GMU22 connector last night. I am figuring out all these grounds now and will need to decide on a panel dimmer of some type soon.

I am open to suggestion on panel dimmers if anyone has some input!!!

It seems that the wires I need to address are as follows:

2 dimmers from the PS Engineering 5000
1 from the 327 Xponder
1 from each 37X screen
4 from the 650 (Keypad HI and LO, Display HI and LO... What does that mean?)

Can anyone help me with that?

CJ

Brantel · Post by **Brantel** » Tue Nov 19, 2013 4:51 pm

CJ,

The few buttons and the knob on the GTN have a separate back from the screen. You can program multiple combinations in the setup menu. You can tie em both to the same dimmer, or use the photocell. I connected the GTN to a dimmer but ended up just using the photocell as it is also programmable and works great.

The HI and LO is just the dimmer + and the dimmer ground which can just be ships ground or it can be isolated.

The 327 also has a photocell if you want it to be automatic.

I think the PSE 5000 also has a photocell.

The G3X does not and it is not really easy to change the screen brightness manually so I did use a dimmer on it.

All 4 of my dimmers are just the simple voltage regulator dimmers sold by Vans. They work great for these electronic boxes and LED cockpit lights.

captain_john · Post by **captain_john** » Wed Nov 20, 2013 9:17 pm

Brian,

Hmmmmm, ok then... Sooooo if I:

Use the existing photocells in my radio stack and let them do as they were designed to do and I...

Used the cheap a$$ dimmer from Van to control my 370 & 375 displays along with my whiskey compass backlight and the LED eyeball light for my switches; and wired it all to come on with my nav lights, how bad would that be?

CJ

captain_john · Post by **captain_john** » Wed Nov 20, 2013 9:53 pm

Here are some updated pictures:

Lots of loose ends that need to be tied up!

The pressure sensors!

Coming along!

CJ

Brantel · Post by **Brantel** » Thu Nov 21, 2013 2:01 pm

captain_john wrote:Brian,

Hmmmmm, ok then... Sooooo if I:

Use the existing photocells in my radio stack and let them do as they were designed to do and I...

Used the cheap a$$ dimmer from Van to control my 370 & 375 displays along with my whiskey compass backlight and the LED eyeball light for my switches; and wired it all to come on with my nav lights, how bad would that be?

CJ

Sounds good to me. You may want multiple dimmers since it can be hard to get one adjusted with multiple light sources.

captain_john · Post by **captain_john** » Tue Nov 26, 2013 7:43 pm

Bri, i will see how it looks in the garage with the lights off and go from there...

All, here is my power plan:

What do you think of this design?

The 6&12v circuits are power plugs.

My goals are:

1) To use the IBBS minimally on start up.
2) To have the autopilot and nav/comm 1 optionally available in the event of an alternator or VPX failure.
3) To utilize the reversionary capability of the GDU screens by shutting off the master (GDU 375 will become the PFD, right?), achieve maximum battery autonomy from the IBBS and then only if necessary, turn on the master for more endurance and manage loads as required.

Am I on the right track?

This isn't too hokey, is it?

Should I put the GDU 370 PIN 2 on the IBBS as well?

I didn't see any reason to have the GMC 305 pin 2 backed up without the servos as well... So I gave them power too. Why does Garmin do that?

What are your thoughts?

CJ

captain_john · Post by **captain_john** » Sat Dec 14, 2013 5:06 pm

Well... As there were no comments regarding my electrical architecture, i proceeded!

I did make a couple of changes. Primarily i put the GDU370 pin 2 on the backup battery along with the 305.

Pinning out the VPX has proven to be interesting. I am leaving some extra wire prior to the terminations for a couple of reasons. One is so that they can be serviced a bit easier and two being... Well, who knows what the future of electronic circuit breakers will be!

This is the GEA24 engine analyzer "brain box" if you will.

This was my first attempt at wiring D-Sub connectors. I think it will work!

Here are the cables as they pass the firewall and get routed through the ribs.

I think this was a good place to home the AOA brain box.

This bay is getting busier!

I really like having the fuse blocks on the map box.

It will keep them visible and serviceable!

One is for the "Secondary bus" that feeds the GTN650 and the servos. The other is for distributing the backup battery loads.

I will use the single fuseholder to protect the backup battery trickle feed.

Hard to tell from this pic but it is coming together!

I gotta say, this part is fun!

CJ

Brantel · Post by **Brantel** » Sun Dec 15, 2013 9:01 am

Looking great CJ!

aparchment · Post by **aparchment** » Sun Dec 15, 2013 9:30 am

Hey man,

Great thread! Thanks for documenting this in public. It is helping me think about this stuff. As I told you a few weeks ago, this is by far the most intimidating part of the project for me.

Re your question about the multiple dimmers, I agree with Brian -- split the systems up so you can control individual levels. In the Diamond they do the flight instruments on one and the glareshield and ambient lighting on another. It allow you to create the perfect balance.

Antony

BSwayze · Post by **BSwayze** » Sat Dec 21, 2013 3:28 am

CJ, nice work! It's fun seeing your progress.

I looked at your electrical diagram and read the posts that follow. Am I missing something, or not reading it right? I don't see on your diagram that anything goes into or out of the VP-X, except the power cable. And then you have fuses on top of your map box. If you bought a VP-X, what are the fuses for? Help me understand what you're doing.

I put a VP-X in mine, and I won't have any fuses that I know of (at least not yet, I'm far from being finished).

I'm just a little ways behind you, and learning fast! Like Antony, this has been the most intimidating part of the whole project so far for me.

I'm not a geek!

captain_john · Post by **captain_john** » Sat Dec 21, 2013 12:38 pm

Bruce,

Here is a screenshot of the online VP-X configuration tool.

All the loads shown here will be fed from the VP-X.

I have a 6 circuit fuseblock that will serve as a distribution center for my IBBS Backup Battery.

Another fuseblock is intended as a backup to my VP-X and feeds the backup pins of the G3X components via the IBBS. It also feeds the 650 nav/comm and the autopilot servos. In the event I should lose the VPX, I should be able to sustain flight with this design.

I have a single fuse that is always hot, directly from the battery and it is a 2 ampere trickle charge for the IBBS.

Does that make sense?

Btw, here is a few current state of affairs pictures...

Still need to neaten things up yet but you get the picture.

CJ

BSwayze · Post by **BSwayze** » Sat Dec 28, 2013 1:59 pm

Yeah, CJ, that makes sense now. Thanks! Your VP-X configuration sheet looks very similar to mine! I hadn't planned on battery backup. At least not for now. Mine will be a simple VFR system for a while. In the event I have a total panel blackout or lose the VP-X, I will have my Aera GPS with it's internal battery to provide basic airspeed, attitude, etc. to get me down safe somewhere.

Yours is coming along very nicely! I'm a ways behind you but I'm following your progress with great interest.

captain_john · Post by **captain_john** » Sat Dec 28, 2013 4:51 pm

Well, keep in mind that the IBBS serves another purpose besides maintaining the screens during a "plan C" scenario.

It also boots the system and maintains it throughout the startup sequence.

You will want (need) your screens alive for engine instrumentation during the engine start. In addition to that, the possible voltage dip during cranking might cause the screens to reboot if you don't have a backup power source.

This is all provided for with backup power.

Today I ran some more wires and noodled out more details.

Need to do the coaxes soon!

CJ

BSwayze · Post by **BSwayze** » Thu Jan 02, 2014 5:38 pm

Good reminder, yes. I have looked into it and I'm definitely planning a backup battery for my EFIS, etc.

captain_john · Post by **captain_john** » Tue Jan 14, 2014 5:36 pm

Just took delivery of my BNC and TNC connectors from Stein.

Lots of detail in these little buggers. I couldn't imagine stripping the RG-400 by hand with an exacto knife! Get the rotary stripper for the coax!

I made up some marking tags with the P-Touch and will shrink wrap them in place with my clear shrink tube I got from B and C Specialties.

I hope to light this thing up soon and HOPEFULLY the boxes will all hold the smoke inside!?!

I have the 650 tray all wired up and am holding off buying the actual radio for now. EIGHT GRAND, thank you very much!!! Oscar Mike Golf!!!

Hmmmm, wonder when I will get that installed?

Anyways, planning on flying this summer. FINALLY! Ten years in the making!

...just sayin'!

I will post up some nice, clear pictures before I nail on the skins!

Stay tuned!

CJ

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My RV-7 G3X Installation

Re: My RV-7 G3X Installation

Nice Work!