Inverted Fuel Options

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bmurrish
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Inverted Fuel Options

Post by bmurrish »

Hey CJ,

Is there enough piano hinge in the wing kit to make the trap doors for rib 2? Also did you make the anti hang-up for rib 2 as well. Just don't see it as an issue.

Bill
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4kilo
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Post by 4kilo »

Bill,

After I built my flaps, I realized that there is plenty of piano hinge left over for the one-way valve in the tank. Unfortunately, I had already purchased an extra section of hinge. Oh well, maybe I will find a use for it later.

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Post by captain_john »

Bill,

Yes and yes.

You should do some measuring of your hinges, but the -7 has shorter flaps due to the wider fuse. I had plenty of stock. I think you will too.

Omitting the anti hangup guide probably isn't an issue. Wicked Stick didn't make the anti hangup guide thing, but I did.

:) CJ
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Post by bmurrish »

I made the anti hang-up guide for the inspection plate to prevent platenut rubbing. I didn't do the one for the second rib because I couldn't see any possible problems.
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Post by captain_john »

Yup, I see... the 45 degree twisted thing.

That is the part WS did NOT maker either. Sorry if I was unclear last night, but last night I was a bit unclear.

:wink:

I however, DID do both and feel that they are both important.

It isn't hard to do. It seems that this part of the kit is where it takes on the word, "custom". There are places that they leave you to your own devices. This is one of them.

:) CJ
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Post by tshort »

Bill-

There is more than enough hinge with the flaps - I have something like 12" extra on each hinge. Should be OK to cut a little off each one.

Thomas

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Post by bmurrish »

Thanks guys for the hinge info. I only need to cut a 2 1/2" piece from one. Only putting flop tube in the left side.

Hey CJ, any pictures of the one for the second rib?
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Post by captain_john »

Cut that hinge piece a little long!!!

Uh, too late... You already cut it, didn't you!

You need to make a little tab on it to limit it's travel and have some extra pin material to bend it over on the baffle side of the mousetrap door. Proseal it in place so it doesn't wiggle around after things are all sealed up.

Here are the pics:

Image

Don't forget to put a little dab of proseal on the brown plastic ring. Some say it has come off. I dunno if it is true, but it is good insurance.

Image

Also, when installing the last rib...

Image

Don't forget to install the capacitive plate like I did!

Image

Now I have to reach down inside with a stubby screwdriver and install the insulators, screws and plate!!!

DOH!

oh well, not that hard...

Looks like I need to take some pics of the mousetrap door!

8) CJ
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Post by captain_john »

OK, I found it...

Image

The mousetrap door I made!

8) CJ
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Post by bmurrish »

I left the piano hinge a little long so I could get a good mounting position due to the circular indention on the rib.

A couple questions for you CJ. I see the fitting for the flop tube, tank vent, and the BNC for your fuel sender. What it the other one for? Also, it looks like you put a anti-rotation bracket on your flop tube. I thought that bracket was only for the standard pick-up?
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Post by captain_john »

The third port (which slowed me down considerably) is the vapor return line for the fuel injection system. I noodled over that for MONTHS wondering what to do!

I am confident that it is what I want.

I did fab up and Auntie Rotation bracket.

I figured that if the standard one could rotate, this one could too.

When you think about it (and if you think the way I do, which could be scary!) the anti-rotation bracket need be only on the left side. The right side, should it rotate... would actually tighten up the connection. So it is not needed on the right side. My right tank will have a standard pick up.

Image

8) CJ
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Post by bmurrish »

Please share your thoughts with us on the vapor return line when you get a chance. Maybe even another thread on the subject.

Is the standard pick-up in the picture above one from Van's or did you make it yourself? Looks sweet!!!
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Post by Dan A »

One other thing to remember----, After you proseal and install the rear baffle be sure to go in thru the large inspection plate and check the trap door for freedom of movement. If you get a little bit too much proseal on the rear baffle flange mating surfaces, the trap door can stick to the excess pro seal. The other side of the coin is too little proseal and the tank will leak at the baffle. Don't ask how I know!! :bang:
Dan

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Post by captain_john »

OK, I will start another thread on it later. I am kinda beat right now. In a nutshell, the EFI system needs a place to send the excess fuel when you come back off the power.

The main reason I did it was to prevent vapor lock on hot starts. When I fly the Cherokee Six, I like to purge the spider of any hot fuel. To do so, I kick on the master and fuel pump for 60 seconds. This sends hot fuel to the tanks and brings cold fuel into the injectors for starting.

Dan tapped his into the feed line from the fuel selector to the engine. I figured this would be better.

But with regard to the pick up... I made that. It really is simple. I used the Dremel with the abrasive wheel. I sliced through the material like BUTTAH!

The Dremel was just the ticket for the partial depth cuts. It did it with precision and ease. It was my first attempt and I am thrilled with the results!

8) CJ
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Post by captain_john »

Thanks Dan!

I was thinking about that one today!

:) CJ
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Post by bmurrish »

CJ, I am ready to make the standard pick-up and was looking at yours in the picture above. It looks like it is sitting below the bottom of the rib. I'm guessing you shortened it after the photo, correct?
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Post by captain_john »

Yes,

The photo was taken before the tubeing was flared. It now sits flush with the bottom of the rib.

:) CJ
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